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Discussion Starter #1
Trouble shooting ideas please - putting my 67 RS convertible back on road after full restoration. Driver headlight door does not open consistently - passenger side works fine. Driver side door will open fine if I give it a start - pull off the stop switch near the sealed beam. It closes fine when lights turned off & stops when hitting the stop switch near the sealed beam.

Wiring is correct I think - it opens some times. Installed retro-electro motors - work great. Still with original relays.

If a relay was bad, or dirty, the passenger light cover would not open & close correctly - right? I tried spraying contact cleaner into the driver door closed stop switch. No change in operation.

Ideas for checking please.

Thanks
 

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If it opens and closes most of the time, that should rule out the relays. I'd check for good ground on the limit switches, specifically driver's outer one. When the door is opening, the outer switch is grounded and the inboard switch is providing the 12V to the motor.

I'm sure Mark from Retro-electro will have suggestions for you also.

Good luck!
 

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I had same problem same side too.I took out limit switch to check with voltmeter,check out and it was O K, and cleaned it up a bit put back in and it was working again.I think was a bad ground. Make sure the short wire gets good contact on the body .
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Tom & So Bflo I have heard about making sure grounds are good - but forgot in this case. I took both limit switches out today, sprayed contact cleaner & sandpapered the ground connections. Then tested - worked for about 17 of 20 tries - so it improved. Thanks for the reminder to check grounds. I'll check with Mark too he was helpful getting the motors installed.
 

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These intermittent door problems can be a real pain. I guess the problems is the drivers side limit switches. However, 40+ year old relays and switches get finicky and I recommend changing the limit switches and changing ALL three relays. It’s relatively cheap fix (about $80) and will probably fix the problem and certainly save you trouble later down the road. The switches and relays may test ok with a multimeter but arcing, pitting, welding and corrosion can cause erratic function under load long before a simple multimeter test indicate failure. You could open up the relay case and file the contacts but I have found this to be a short-lived fix, as there is plating on the contacts to resist the welding and pitting. The relays are a generic design used in many automotive applications over the years and can still be found at your local auto parts suppliers for about $10 :Four Seasons (PN-35767) relays work great and have the same mounting bracket as the original AC delco relays. The limit switches were originally made by Cherry Corp. and are surprisingly still in production (http://www.cherrycorp.com). As a result, OEM quality can still be had from any of the Camaro restoration suppliers.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Mark. I'll go shopping to replace the old parts.
 
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