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Discussion Starter #1
I grew up around these cars and I finally have one in my garage. This is a factory Red on Red Camaro originally a 6 cylinder with a 3 on the tree. Overall the car was surprisingly solid and had all original panels. The driver quarter has been massaged in the past and the driver fender has a small poorly done patch, the floors have rust holes and the trunk has some pin holes but thats about it. (for now) According to the Vin and Cowl tag this was the 70th Body and 118th car produced out of LA in August of '66. Does this make my Camaro any more special? Also do any of you know what the 12 and other character mean that is stamped on the vin tag?

My goals for this car is to build a car I can enjoy. This will by no means be a show car but I do want this car to handle and stop well, and all repairs done right the first time so I never have to do them again.

As far as the drivetrain is concerned, I want to put a good running sbc with a 4 speed or six speed if I can find one at the right price. My uncle is giving me a solid running 4 bolt main 350 which should help with the cost.






 

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Discussion Starter #2
Starting on Floor Pan

I'm staring on the passenger floor pan. Having the right tools definitely helps. Again I'm trying to take my time and do one job at a time. I do not want to overwhelm myself with a garage scattered full of parts. Especially since I just rent a room and my roommates are awesome enough to let me take up most of the garage space with no additional charge in rent. Anyways, I got to the point where I set the new panel in and temporarily bolted the seat support. I still have to patch the rocker where I got too happy with the chisel and grind off what's left of the old floor on the rocker before I do a real test fit. I plan on butt welding the floor to the old floor and plug welding to the rocker.










 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sorry for slow update but I haven't done much to the car. I did some welding, picked up some parts, and looking for someone to rebuild my Muncie. I definitely need to do some side work to make up for my late night ebay/summit spending on my phone.

I finished welding in the passenger floor pan (these repro's aren't stamped like the originals...)

I started patching the driver side floor (which is a much easier process since there was much less rust)

I picked up a LOT of parts including:

-Spare set of original front windshield and rear window trims (I didn't have all the pieces)

-'67 Muncie M20 + 10.4" bellhousing complete but apart (Looking for someone to rebuild it for me)

-Deluxe Muncie Rebuild kit

-Hurst shifter + Linkage used

-Original Center Console + New Shifter Bezel (I still need the bracket, harness, hardware, etc)

-Used Grill and headlight bezels (temporarily installed, bezels need to be painted)

-Bmr 2" lowering springs

-KYB Shocks

-Right stuff steering kit (tie rods, ball joints)

-mid length power steering arms

-New power steering pitman arm

-Energy suspension master bushing kit

-Front disc brake lines

-Front spoiler + Brackets

-Like new gas tank, sending unit, fuel line

-C5 front brake kit (CPP spindle with GM C5 calipers, not cpp calipers)

-IROC Camaro 2.5 turns lock to lock steering box

-Summit front sway bar

My plan once I'm done welding the floors is to wire wheel the whole floor, trunk, firewall and undercarriage and rustproof paint it.

Once the front clip is off I want to pull the frame, wire wheel and paint it, and begin rebuilding the front suspension and brakes and roll it back into the car with the engine and trans bolted up. Here are some pics for you all, sorry for the bad quality/ lighting.












 

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Looking good.. As many how to videos and articles out there you might try rebuilding the Muncie yourself.. They are not as bad as they look.. You might surprise yourself..
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hello everyone, It's been about 4 years but I thought I should give you all an update. Long story short I got engaged, married, and expecting our first child in June. I also started my masters degree and graduate this May. Life did get in the way however I did make some slow progress on the Camaro since then and pictures are coming soon. I had to move and my car is outside under a cover at a buddies house and I've been working on everyone else's car but mine. I'm also renting a storage unit to keep my parts away from the rain and safe. I wish I could buy a home here in San Jose! My buddies are going to help me get this thing running hopefully before my first child arrives. Because it is stored outside I think I'm going to take everything to metal then just epoxy prime it for now.

Here are some updates:

-New Trunk Pan welded in
-Finished welding in one side DSE Mini Tub
-New Trans Tunnel Tacked in place
-Front Driver floor patch done
-Shortened a '65 Impala Rear Diff 12 bolt I got off craigslist to an inch shorter than a stock 67 with new moser axles, housing ends, and 3.55 Detroit TrueTrac
-Muncie M20 is put together ready to go
-Engine is almost done, complete build from Gary Keeling in Santa Clara .40 over ~357ci
-All Brakes and suspension purchased (Ridetech, Kore 3, C6 Calipers)
-Finished Re-Upholstering One seat (First time, not perfect)
-Purchased Second Hand 17" intro Pentia Wheels 17x10 and 17x8
-Purchased Stainless Tank/Fuel Lines/Brake Lines
-Purchased LHD S10 Master Cylinder with Dual 9" Booster and angled bracket
-Much more to come.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Engine: I decided to stay with a classic carbureted small block because I think it is timeless and will still be cool 20 years from now. I could have easily went the LS route but my heart wanted a small block. Some Parts I got new, others lightly used over time.

I highly recommend doing your homework on Dynamic Compression Ratio and going to Wallace Racing - Automotive Calculators before building your engine. Since I wanted to run my engine on 91 here in California I wanted to keep my DCR around 8.3.

I do plan on running an oxygen sensor to fine tune the carb later on. The Engine is still at the shop.

Here is are the specs of my Engine
-8.25 DCR, 10.3SCR
-1971 4 bolt main block bored .40 over
-Rotating Assembly Balanced
~.039" Squish (I wanted to be able to run less advance, utilize tumble)
-XE274H Comp Cam
-Comp Hydraulic lifters
-Eagle Cast Steel Crank
-Scat Forged Bushed Rods
-Flat Top Hypereutectic Pistons
-Cloyes Billet Steel Timing Set
-Promaxx 183cc Heads 64cc, ARP 7/16 studs, AFR adjustable guide plates
-ARP Head Bolts
-Summit State 3 Dual Plane Intake
-MLS Cometic .027" Gaskets
-Melling M55A Oil Pump
-Summit Baffled 6qt oil pan
-Carter Mechanical Fuel Pump
-Summit Nodular Iron Harmonic Balancer
-Reconditioned Holley 650cfm Double Pumper
-Comp Gold 1.5 Full Roller Rockers (Overkill I know)
-DUI HEI Distributor
-DUI Livewires
-K&N Gold Fuel Filter Anti Drainback
-ACT Flywheel
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Here are some pics of the trunk pan replacement I did a while back. My welds aren't the prettiest but I do make sure I get excellent penetration since I butt welded the pan in place. I use easy grind wire so I could always go back and clean up my welds. My welding does get better later on.














 

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I had a 1991 Z/28 convertible that was Bright Red with Bright Red Leather Interior. I ended up redoing the interior with all black trim because it was just too much red for me. Looking back, I wish I had replace the carpeting with black carpet instead of red carpet. It would have been alot easier on the eyes.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I had a 1991 Z/28 convertible that was Bright Red with Bright Red Leather Interior. I ended up redoing the interior with all black trim because it was just too much red for me. Looking back, I wish I had replace the carpeting with black carpet instead of red carpet. It would have been alot easier on the eyes.
I too, decided to go with a black interior after thinking about it a while. Much easier on the eyes. Btw I love those third gen convertibles!
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Here are some pics of the minitub progress I learned a lot about doing this since it was my first time. Warning its not very pretty at the moment. I work outside so I overdid it a little with the seam sealer but will go back and clean it up before paint. The RH side tub should go much smoother. Sorry for some of the bad quality pics my phone's camera cracked. I did clean up all welds and ensure proper penetration before install. I used a pneumatic punch around the outside flange of the wheel tub to plug weld the tub. After plug welding all locations I finished up with 3m seam sealer.















I have since cleaned up the bracket and filled the holes you see below. I know it's messy at the moment.


 

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Discussion Starter #18
Here are some progress pics of the seat, It's done so I will take more pics later. Again, this is my first time and with the help of youtube it got done. I will take more pics when I do the other seat. The frame was in great condition with no broken springs but geez these things are heavy. I used vinyl thick backing instead of burlap and replaced the paper listing with coat hangar wire before install. Instead of cotton I used polyester filler. It was a nice hot day when I did the seat which helped a lot with the wrinkles. I glued denim to the bottom edge of the seat and also used polyester filler for the bottom. Again I think the passenger seat will come out better since it won't be my first time. I will take more pictures when I do the passenger seat. when I get back to my storage I will take a pic of the finished seat.




 

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Discussion Starter #19
So I want to keep the inside of the car classic looking with subtle changes. The interior will be black (sorry not sorry) and I love the colors of the original gauges. I do have a console but still debating on using it since I like the clean look of the floor shifter on the carpet. I bought Marshall Instruments 60's muscle triple gauge kit and a Autometer 2895 Street Tach that will mount on the column. With exception of 3 point seat belts and the front seat upholstery with extra support, the rest of the interior will be standard black which I believe is timeless.

One of my pet peeves is using a rpm gauge that goes to 10k rpm when my rev limit will be closer to 6k... all that empty space! The street tach is exactly what I was going for.



Here is the 7 1/2" gauge pod which will mount under the dash.







 

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Discussion Starter #20
I've been working on the side of this house at my buddy's place. We almost got the '55 ready to register since DMV gave us a list of things to do before we could register the car since it has been out of the system over 20 years.
 
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