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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know the RPM of the output shaft of the headlight gearbox? For that matter, does anyone have any specs on this gearmotor?
 

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I'm interested too, I have been too cheap to spend the $200 for a new set from D&R or Ricks. If there is any cheaper replacement I'm all ears!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Torch:
I'm interested too, I have been too cheap to spend the $200 for a new set from D&R or Ricks. If there is any cheaper replacement I'm all ears!<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I'll keep you posted.
 

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Have you actually removed the motors and tested them? I found that my motors were actually still good, it was the plastic housing around the planetary gearset that attaches to the motors that was bad, it was stripped out on the inside. these housings are available through classic industries. this and some minor wiring repair to the relays and all works great now. all together i might have spent $50.00 to fix them. this was 8 years ago and they still work perfectly

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67 RS
355, SUPER T10 4 SPD
9" FORD
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I disassembled the motor & gearbox. Motor had burned wires. The car has been in the family since new. I just inherited it, again. This is third failure. I believe a relay or limit switch is not funtioning properly. I will be wringing out the wiring before putting in a new motor.
 

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Brad, my car also has been in the family since new! my hideaways had not worked since about 1970. In case you did not know this, you can get a wiring diagram for the hidden headlight system from classic industries, this saved me what probably would have been hours of work trying to figure it out. good luck

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67 RS
355, SUPER T10 4 SPD
9" FORD
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The most promising thing I have found is a 12VDC gearmotor from Grainger Indust. Supply., item # 4Z837. I bought one based on the dimensions of the holes, shafts, etc. and 12 RPM output. As it turns out, the motor itself is physically an exact match. The gear reduction inside the box appears a different ratio. I have replaced my burned out motor with the new one and I am very hopeful it will work without any problem. The only thing you have to figure out is the motor rotation for whichever side you are going to use the motor on. The new motor has two leads and the original has a plug. Once I determine rotation, I will splice the plug onto the new motor leads. The new gearmotor cost $43. Grainger is wholesale and I bought it though the company I work for. I'll let you know how it comes out but I am confident I can make this work.

Brad
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The new motor adapted easily and seems to have more torque than the original. A minor drawback is that the two headlight covers operate at a slightly different speed. Not enough to make me change the other one though.
 

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Brad,

I'm glad to hear that the motor you've found works. I have to replace both of mine and this looks like a good deal.

By the way, you could experiment with a small resistor on the faster motor in order to slow it down.

Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I finished mounting the new motor and reinstalled the entire assembly last night and it all went in without a hitch and operated perfectly! For posterity, I am trying to find a source for just the motor, as opposed to having to buy the gearmotor assembly. The motor is a standard type, but so far I have only seen it as part of an assembly, or a supplier wants me to buy 10, 000 of them. In any case, with very little effort, this is a more economical solution that buying it from an auto specialty supplier. Brad Pounders
 
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