Team Camaro Tech banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My 67 RS headlight doors opened & closed fine when I purchased the car, then recently they suddenly stopped closing. After pulling the headlight knob, the doors open and both headlights come on as they should. With the key on, turning off the headlights will turn off both headlights (and all other lights), but the doors do not close. This issue started after I did two things: (1) partially removed the headlight switch from the dash and moved the purple wire so the front parking lights stay on when the headlights are on, and (2) rearranged wires in the LF corner of the car and put some of the wires in plastic loom. The relay bracket, relays and circuit breaker under the LF fender all look new, and this corresponds with receipts from the previous owner showing the headlight motors & relays were replaced in Aug 2018.

Troubleshooting completed to date:
Removed black ground wire to radiator support in LF corner, and the wire that goes from that ground screw to the LF fender, stripped wires, added new terminals, and even sanded surfaces on radiator support and fender surfaces where terminals ground. Problem still exists.
Ran a ground wire from the new terminal (that normally mounts to the radiator support) directly to the battery, problem still exists.
Next, and thanks to this forum, I stated reading this website: https://retro-electro.net/FAQ67.html

In the section titled “Why do my headlights doors open but not close”, it says, “If the headlight switch is OK, follow this troubleshooting procedure…”.
I don’t know for sure if the headlight switch is good, and it appears to be original, vs. the relays being much newer. The headlight switch does turn on the parking lights, turn on the headlights, will dim & brighten the interior lights, and, when rotated fully counter-clockwise, will turn on the courtesy lights. And it obviously sends the correct signals to open the headlight doors.

Assuming the headlight switch has no issues, I performed the following troubleshooting per the Retro-Electric website:
• Ignition switch on
• Verified voltage at green wire terminal of relay #1. Verified voltage at orange wire terminal of relay #1. This rules out relay #1.
• Checked for voltage at the brown wire terminal on relays 2 & 3 (they work in parallel). No voltage, so they are not being actuated.
• Checked for voltage on each of the 2-terminal plugs on both relay #2 & #3, no voltage (with ignition on). Retro-Electric website says next step is to check wiring back to the ignition switch and also make sure the diode is not open.

Questions:
1. Is there a specific way to test the headlight switch for its signal to close the headlight doors?
2. Where is the diode located (the one referenced by the Recto-Electric website)?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Be sure that you have your headlight bulbs plugged in because the 67 system uses the path through the bulbs for a ground when the lights are off. Also be sure that all 4 limit switches click when you press them and click when you release them. You can check them with a meter too. I sold my 67 RS 21 years ago so I would have to stare at the diagram and pound my head on a brick wall for a few hours to understand how they work again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Mike. Headlights bulbs come on and go off with the headlight switch as they should, so that ground path is good. I'll go back again and press all of the limit switches to re-confirm they all click.
This suddenly started happening after I messed with the headlight switch then bundled some wires around the voltage regulator. So far, the Retro-Electric website troubleshooting guide points me to the headlight switch or wiring to that switch.
 

·
Registered
Wylie, TX - Lee
Joined
·
185 Posts
• Checked for voltage at the brown wire terminal on relays 2 & 3 (they work in parallel). No voltage, so they are not being actuated.
• Checked for voltage on each of the 2-terminal plugs on both relay #2 & #3, no voltage (with ignition on). Retro-Electric website says next step is to check wiring back to the ignition switch and also make sure the diode is not open.

Questions:
1. Is there a specific way to test the headlight switch for its signal to close the headlight doors?
2. Where is the diode located (the one referenced by the Recto-Electric website)?

Based on your testing I would say that the diode is bad (open). Follow the brown wire from the ignition switch and you should find the diode.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks, and if this is the issue, does anyone know the specs of this diode? Would prefer to replace just the diode instead of the entire diode harness assembly.
 

·
Registered
Wylie, TX - Lee
Joined
·
185 Posts
Thanks, and if this is the issue, does anyone know the specs of this diode? Would prefer to replace just the diode instead of the entire diode harness assembly.

I would use a diode that is similar in shape to the original. I diode with Vr above 20V and Io of 2A or greater will work. This diode on ebay would work fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Bob (bob15) and Lee (blitzer454), I located the diode and, after temporarily bypassing it, confirmed this was the issue. New diode on order.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top