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I heard some of the repros were not very good but I also heard that they re-tooled them and now are more reliable. Are the better ones the only ones available now? Who sells the better quality ones and most importantly how can I tell the difference in quality by looking at it. I don't want a vendor to sell me a bad repro stating its a good repro so they can get rid of their junk inventory. They aren't going into use immediately so don't just tell me to try them please. I am looking for a vendor that has good ones, but not interested in Rick's First Gen. Besides not working I also heard that the repros open and close the doors rather harshly compared to factory. Any truth to this or any experience. I am VERY weary of repro anything and originals are very hard to find. Anyone have any luck or experiences to share with these? Thanks
 

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Most actuators are "tested" before shipping. I have yet to get on that worked without being creative on it. They all leak under the boot where the shaft comes out. If they could perfect a seal/o -ring of some kind they would work great. I always put a hand vacuum pump on them before waisting my time installing them to see that they leak. This is one part that could use some better engineering.

They should open and close semi smooth since one side of the canister has to pull air in as the vacuum is applied to one side or the other. I have a spare that I nedd to take and see if anything can be done to make it better without looking non factory.

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68 RS, Ash Gold,pwr windows,Hounds tooth

[This message has been edited by CA420 (edited 10-30-2000).]
 

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I have disassembled and rebuilt some of the original GM units with mixed results. Sometimes they work wonderfully..while other times I think a Folgers coffee can would work better.

You would laugh if you saw how primative the sealing surfaces are. The shaft seal is a packing type while piston gasket isn't even an O-ring.

I would like to hear some feedback from somebody who has tried these "retooled" units.

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Steve McCorry - Central Ohio Camaro Club
'69 Camaro RS/SS-350 - Daytona Yellow
'95 Camaro Z-28 - Sebring Silver
click here to see my webpage ---> www.mindspring.com/~mccorry (updated 10/8/00)
 

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I purchased the "NEW" improved ones about 6 months ago. It took them 6 months prior to get them in stock.
But they work fine no problems so far, the first set I purchased about 1 1/2 years ago were bad, put them on and didnt even work. P##sed me off.
I got mine from Classic industry 800-854-1280. Atleast they guarentee them not to leak @ $79.95 ea. They are OER so the stamp approval is on them.
Good Luck!!

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Mike
68 RS Convertible
www.camaro.lookscool.com[url]
 

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I didn't need to hear these stories. I have 2 new repos that came with the car when I bought it 3 years ago. I bought new hoses and hooked the whole system up recently and they didn't work at all. I thought it was my relay valve. Now I wonder.
 

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Steve McCorry

How did you open and reseal the actuators? I've ground off the lip with a disc grinder to seperate them for fun, but I have an actuator that is giving me fits and am looking for a better way to re-assemble it. I was thinking epoxy?


TTFN
Mat
 

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I made a tool to unroll the flange and remove the end off the can. The crimp is actually folded over 2 1/2 times so you have to go around over and over again as to not damage the sealing surfaces. it takes some time.

To put it back together, I found that a light coat of form-a-gasket works well...and then just roll the lip back closed.

It really isn't as easy as this sounds...but it did work...albeit 1/2 the time
.

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Steve McCorry - Central Ohio Camaro Club
'69 Camaro RS/SS-350 - Daytona Yellow
'95 Camaro Z-28 - Sebring Silver
click here to see my webpage ---> www.mindspring.com/~mccorry (updated 10/8/00)
 

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Steve:

Do you have plans or pictures of your tool? I have found that my repo piston loses it's seal at full travel (it opens but won't close) so I want to pull my actuator apart and try to fix it. Besides it sounds like a neat device and I can always use more tools!

TTFN
Mat
 

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in addition to bad luck with the actuators, i've also had bad luck with the brand new hose kits splitting at the connections. i spoke with a rep from d&r when i was at SEMA and he assured me that the actuators coming in now are pretty reliable.
 

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Nope...I don't have any pics right now...
When I get a chance, I'll snap a couple...

My father has had pretty good luck unrolling the crimp with a small pipe wrench. It almost does just as good a job. The hardest part is always closing them back up....Just something to think about.
 
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