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Discussion Starter #1
Took my car to my buddies shop to weld the subrame plates 100 miles round trip.. Everything went well on the way down but on the way home approx 20 miles out the car starts to cut out like it's running out of gas..I feather the throttle and pull over to break down lane...The car stalls..I restart no problem take off hit 4th running strong and smooth but 2 minutes later the same thing..I let it die restart and all over again..I pull of the highway to make sure I have gas(just in case the guage is messed up)fill it($10)..wasn't out of gas..pull out of the station running fine hit the highway hit 4th and approx 60MPH the car does it again..I pull over and restart(It restarts right away and revs clean) right away)..and start out..at 50mph I was able to drive 5 miles without it stalling...When I got off my exit it ran fine even in high revs...But when I GOT BACK ON THE HIGHWAY SAME THING...any ideas

It feels like it was running out of gas...Thought It might be the fuel pump Mechanical...But pumps fine..Checked the floats and they were about 1/4" under the sight hole(I usualy adjust them so they are even with the sight hole....Any thoughts ..Thanks in advance
 

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Sounds like vapor lock if you believe in such things, maybe you could put a clothes pin on the fuel line LOL. Do you have any rubber fuel hose in the system, I have seen them get a little old and suck shut when the fuel demand is high. I have also seen points to close and ignition mods. getting hot and act that way also. Good luck, Danny

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I didn't build it, I didn't break it so lighten up, I'm just trying to fix it

[This message has been edited by Midnightblue69 (edited 06-29-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Midnightblue69 (edited 06-29-2001).]
 

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you mention that you where welding just before this happened like the gentlemen before mentioned do you have any rubber line and did it get melted during the job?
 

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i had the same thing in my nova last year when i put in my 400 horse 355. had me stumped for a few days. turns out the fuel line got bent a little where it comes out of the frame next to the fuel pump, and stretched the rubber fuel line, causing it to kink shut under sustained highway rpm's.bent the line about a half inch, and not a problem since.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well checked the fuel line..Get this not one clamp..I mean I have 6" of fuel line between the gas tank fuel line and the pump...No clamps just pushed on....Then I have 4 ft of fuel line from the fuel pump to the carb...Again no clamps(good protects the very stupid I guess)..No clamps and no leaks...Well I can see the reason why such a long run on the pump to carb, considering the line goes from the pump to the battery tray (under the lower rad hose) then up over the heater hoses to the holley....There must be an easier way...Need to get the correct fuel pump(Holley in there now) and the correct pump to carb line...Just not sure if they make a line for my holley(did they have a 68 camaro with a 327 4 speed w/ac and a 4 brl holley..Any help or thoughts on where I can get the parts...Thanks again guys
 

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If you are running with with a points distributor, sometimes the condenser can go bad and the car will run short periods of time and cut off ( usually when you are coasting or idling ) ... If you don't find a fuel problem, try a new set of points...
 

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I used to have an old Ford with a 460 that did that. It turned out to be a bad pick-up coil in the distributor. If you have an HEI it might be worth checking.

If your welding buddy used a stick welder and grounded to the frame - maybe something electronic took a hit.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Seem to keep losing my posts
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I thought about the distributor..But it has been changed to a pointless distributor. (MSD box and super coil on the fender well)
But I ruled that out based on the fact that it is not responding to revs..I mean if I get on it while getting on the highway the car runs smooth.(the slower I go the longer the car runs without any problem)...Then after a few minutes the car starts to act like its running out of gas...I let it die throw it in gear starts right up and goes fine for a few minutes..Then same thing...I figured if it was bad distributor it would act up on revs..I drove it for 5 miles back roads with no problem as soon as I got on the highway after a brief run the car did it all over again...Am I right in ruling out the distributor...

Also anyone have any Idea how I can find out what type of distributor cap I have on the car now..I WANT TO REPLACE IT BUT DON'T KNOW WHICH ONE TO BUY..I know it ain't the correct one because there is no access hole for the points...Any thoughts..Thanks
 

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I had the same stalling situation (almost exactly as yours) with an old ford truck. It turned out to be the filter. As far as the distributor cap I have seen new ones without the whole.
 

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I HAVE A 68 CAMARO. HAD THIS CAR FOR OVER 10yr.REDONE IT IN 93.PUT 7 CARBS ON CAR AND REBUILT HOW MANY TIMES? STARTED DOING THE FLOOR PANS AND TRUNK PAN.TOOK OFF THE TANK AND FOUND GRAVEL IN IT.STILL WONDERING WHO I MADE MAD.THERE WAS ONLY 7 OR 8 ROCKS IN THERE BUT HOW MUCH MUD.WHEN I GET IT TOGETHER IF IT RUNS GOOD I WILL LET YOU KNOW.IF NOT I WILL PUT THE ROCKS BACK IN.
SEE"YA!!! CAMARODAN
 

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My buddy (one of the most knowledgeable speed shop countermen of all time) has told me to disconnect my MSD box from the car and even remove it entirely prior to doing any arc or mig welding. Those MSD boxes are great!! but why do the NASCAR guys run 2??? I'll bet you damaged the box when you welded
I'd jump around the box and see what you got
Good luck
John
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I thought of that to...But I keep ruling out the ignition system(distributor)..based on the fact that it is not sensitive to revs or heat( I drove it 40 miles after the welding before anything happened)...Seems to only show it's face when on the highway...If I'm tooling around town "No problem"..I get on the highway reving it through the gears up to speed.. goes fine...As soon as I drive about 1-2 minutes(on highway) it starts to act like it's running out of gas(hesitating and slowing down)..I pull over it dies..Hit the key starts right up..Take off..No problem..The slower I go the longer it takes to show its head...I have also noticed if it starts to happen..I shut it down pop the clutch and it back to normal again...for another few minutes.....Do you guys still think I should go through the distributor and MSD box...(Don't have the slightest Idea how those multiple discharge boxes work)....Any ways I'm still leaning toward the fuel system ..what do you guys think...Thanks in advance
 

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Are you sure that your MSD doesn't have a rev limiter or some type of ignition interrupt circuitry ??? If you fuel flow was restricted, it would seem that your ability to accelerate and go fast ( even for a short while ) would also be restricted ... unless you have a electric fuel pump that's malfunctioning ... Anyway, we are all anxious to hear the solution once you find it.
 

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If you didnt disconnect both battery cables when you welded, I would be looking at substituting out the ignition parts. Welding and electronics dont mix. Good luck, my .02 cents worth
 

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I would suggest the following:

1. Remove MSD wire harness at coil and replace with purple jumpers MSD supplied for this kind of situation. You should have them in your glove box, doesn't everybody? Run car as normal,

2. Next time it stops, immediataly pull over to the side of road and check fuel level in carb. If Holley, remove a lower bowl screw. If Rochester, remove air cleaner and stick a pipe cleaner into bowl vent, 1/4 in dia tube sticking upin front of choke plate. If no fuel either carb, check replace fuel filter.

3. Check fuel pump pressure, under hard acceleration, gas going to rear of tank, uncovering pickup. Pump a jar full, start with a quart size and time it, I think rule of thumb is a qt for 15-20 seconds is sufficent.

4. Welding on body/frame with MSD box connected WILL destroy it and/or limit its capability. MSD will fix for a price.

5. there may be enough foreign material in tank, pump may be trying to suck it through the fuel line, thereby, crushing rubber fuel line. Check vacuum of mech pump, should pump down a gauge to 20-25 inches.

Let us know what happens....

Everett 68/350/PG/11.90/115mph
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok..took it for a run again today..Was fine after about 50 seconds of 60 mph the car started to buck and stall(like it was running out of gas)I pulled over and let it die I then started it right up without a problem..Drove approx the same distance at the same speed same problem...I then decided to try it again but at a slower speed(50mph) this time I was able to run it for about 2 miles on the highway without it showing its head at a slower speed..I then decided to take a better look at the filter(I have one of those small glass filters) here is what I saw..there are several large chunks of material stuck to the side of the dark brown filter media as well as the filter appearing like it is collapsing inward..Also anyone familiar with these glass filters...What color should they be..Brown or white when new...Need to find another filter hopefully this will solve my problem...

If not will replace the (Accel laser 2 box)..Sorry guys thought it was MSD...how does the accel unit compare to the MSD unit...If I do have to replace should I change over to MSD...Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Why do my post keep going???
 

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I have heard many bad situations using the glass filters, I would stay away from them. I have used them in the past and they did not filter very well for me as well.

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68 SS 396
 
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