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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)

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68 RS L30 AA 749
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Hi Eric, welcome aboard ! I'm not sure there's 5K worth of parts there ...I'm not seeing it. Any engines or transmissions included ? Any 12 bolt rear ends ? As far as building a car, obviously extensive sheetmetal replacement is required. If you don't have experience, find someone who does to go look at the cars and assess the rust situation. The good news is most all sheetmetal is being reproduced, but I'm afraid you'll find it's not hardly feasible if you have to hire someone to do the work...
 

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Welcome! I would pass. Do you have a place to store 4 cars that are not mobile? ALl those cars will need all sheetmetal. If you can do the sheet metal work, 7-10k in sheet metal. That is just to get the bodies in order. The labor to have the metal replaced. Idk what that would cost. Then paint, 7-10K for nice paint. If you have a huge garage, all kinds of parts, and TIME!! maybe pick the best one, or look for a better project for 5K. JMO
 

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Welcome to the site. Read for awhile and study before you buy! Definitely you should look for ONE (better project car with good metal) for similar $$... Those four cars are four times worse than buying ONE of those rusty cars! (and even one for $1000 would probably not be a good deal).

There's an old adage which is always TRUE: "Buy the BEST car you can afford"
(this 'deal' is the exact opposite of that advice)...
 

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Definitely you should look for ONE (better project car with good metal) for similar $$... Those four cars are four times worse than buying ONE of those rusty cars! (and even one for $1000 would probably not be a good deal).
I agree, it looks like a lot of (miracle) work is needed, I have experience in buying job lots of stuff with the end goal of at least salvaging one and here looks like little value. Look elsewhere. That guy should put those cars on the scale and accept scrap value.
 

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I'm going to go a different route here. What are your abilities, budget, space, location and plans? I bet 3 of those cars would sell for a $1000 each. The vert looks like it's very close to death but money can solve almost anything. If it was me and I could get the lot for around $3000 I would buy them and sell them. I've seen ebay cars that look that bad bring over $1000. there are so many caveats to this however, are the titles clean, Vins matching, twisted bodies, major rotted panels etc....

I like to buy and restore old dying vehicles though so take my advice with a grain of salt.
 

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I agree, it looks like a lot of (miracle) work is needed, I have experience in buying job lots of stuff with the end goal of at least salvaging one and here looks like little value. Look elsewhere. That guy should put those cars on the scale and accept scrap value.
That depends on the person and the car. A complete lower chassis can be bought for 4K, dump a solid top half on and you have a rot free car.
 

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Lots of naysayers here. My car started in similar poor condidion. Depending on your time and abilities, one of these might be a good start for a nasty hot rod street machine project on the cheap. Can you weld, and do you have a place to do a full rebuild on one of these? I would be tempted to put one together 'rat rod' style, which is kind of what I've done with my '68 camaro. Focus on mechanics first, with a hot smallblock engine and a rebuilt suspension and drivetrain. Replace rusted damaged sheetmetal as necessary and as time permits, but leave the overall look rough and unfinished. Don't worry about paint or interior. Replaced what is severely damaged, but keep the patina. Personally, I love the thrashed beater theme, and its very 'in' right now especially with the new Mad Max movie.

Buy them all, choose the best body as your project, cull whatever parts you need of the other cars, and then sell of the other 3 are not going to build. Looks like there is at least one RS, and a convertible. Those cars could bring money on eBay, even in the poor condition they are in.

It all depends on what your end goal is. If you want a nice driver, you'll ulitmately be better off looking elsewhere for a nicer car to start with. If your goal is to put together a fun street machine to make trouble with and you don't mind compromises on the cosmetic issues, this might actually be a good opportunity.

Titles will be the issue, but maybe you know a buddy in Alabama who can help you get registration?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the advices guys, i will not have problems with the registrations and papers, because I'm in Panama...i was thinking in choose one (the best body condition) and use the other 3 for parts, but i don't think i will get much hahahahahahaha....


thanks anyways, it was a good info from all of you!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hello guys, is me again...
What do you think about this one for 13,500?
engine: 350
transmission: turbo 400
Run and Drive
 

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Seems reasonable, but nice new shiny paint on a car that is not restored always scares me. Applying bondo and paint is a lot cheaper than fixing rusted metal and gives the appearance of the car being nicer than what it really is ("oooohh look at that shiny paint").

The fact that it is running and driving is a big plus. The most important thing is how the car looks structurally from underneath (forget the shiny paint). All of your cost / heartache / time could be hidden.

Assuming it looks good underneath (and don't kid yourself, there will most likely be areas that need attention...and these are the most "painful" repairs), I would start with an $10K-$11K offer.

I just can't stress enough, don't underestimate potential structural repair (rockers, floors, trunk, etc.) work and question ANY work that doesn't look original.

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Seems reasonable, but nice new shiny paint on a car that is not restored always scares me. Applying bondo and paint is a lot cheaper than fixing rusted metal and gives the appearance of the car being nicer than what it really is ("oooohh look at that shiny paint").

The fact that it is running and driving is a big plus. The most important thing is how the car looks structurally from underneath (forget the shiny paint). All of your cost / heartache / time could be hidden.

Assuming it looks good underneath (and don't kid yourself, there will most likely be areas that need attention...and these are the most "painful" repairs), I would start with an $10K-$11K offer.

I just can't stress enough, don't underestimate potential structural repair (rockers, floors, trunk, etc.) work and question ANY work that doesn't look original.

Phil
Many Thanks for the advise
 
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