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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I can't seem to close the gap between the door glass and outer window felt (with the windows up) on my 68 Camaro. When I roll the glass up the last 1 1/2" the front & rear bumper studs on the outer side of the glass hits the two slide plates on the skins. This kicks the glass away from the outer felt. I've tried adjusting the tracks and the two inside felt covered guides. Both doors are like this, but the drivers side is a little worst. I did put a goodmark door skin on the drivers side. After installing the roofrail weatherstriping I had to put alot a pressure on the glass with the inside guides to get to go in the roofrail groove. Could I trim some material off the bumpers to allow the glass to go out farther?

Thanks for the help,
Jim
 

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Are you adjusting it correctly?

When the bumper studs hit the felt strips, this should push the glass IN, not out.

To tip the top of the glass in when closed, adjust the top of the tracks OUT, not in.

The anti rattle strips (the felt covered tabs at the top inside of the door) should not even touch the glass when it is raised, they are to prevent rattling when the glkass is lowered.

As an aside, one of my goodmark doors had the upper reinforcement, under the top of the doorskin, attached at the wrong angle, the bottom edge of it stuck WAY out from the doorskin. This moved the bottom of the felt covered tabs out, and caused a problem exactly like you are describing... when the glass was about 2" from all the way up, it would suddenly pop OUT about 2"!

The lower edge of that reinforcement should be right up against the doorskin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Are you adjusting it correctly? Like I all always have. (This is my first camaro)The passenger side is right other than the gap between the glass and the outside windowfelt when the glass is up.

When the bumper studs hit the felt strips, this should push the glass IN, not out. Yes they do. (I did communicate that well in the first post)It pushes the driver side glass inside the blow out clips. I used the anti rattle strips to hold the glass to get it to guide into the weatherstrip just as a temporary fix.

To tip the top of the glass in when closed, adjust the top of the tracks OUT, not in. The driver side I had to adjust the track as far in as possible to help keep the glass from going in so far.

The anti rattle strips (the felt covered tabs at the top inside of the door) should not even touch the glass when it is raised, they are to prevent rattling when the glkass is lowered. Yep.

As an aside, one of my goodmark doors had the upper reinforcement, under the top of the doorskin, attached at the wrong angle, the bottom edge of it stuck WAY out from the doorskin. This moved the bottom of the felt covered tabs out, and caused a problem exactly like you are describing... when the glass was about 2" from all the way up, it would suddenly pop OUT about 2"! This may be the root cause of my issue.

The lower edge of that reinforcement should be right up against the doorskin.
The outer windowfelts should touch the glass (yes/no)?


Thanks,
Jim
 

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The outer windowfelts should touch the glass (yes/no)?


Thanks,
Jim
Yes, absolutely... and in my bad door, they did not. The felt strips were so far out from the door skin that they pushed the glass a good inch away from the outer fuzzy, only in the last 2 inches on the way up. There was a post on the problem (of course, lol...) and some pics I think, but the bottom line is the lower edge of that reinforcement must be right up tight to the door skin. I didn't find out I had a problem until after paint, so I kinda held it where it needed to be with a prybar, then ran screws in from the inner door shell to hold it there. Think there may have been some pop rivets involved too, was a couple years ago, details kinda fuzzy.
Whatever I did, it's still right.
 

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I am going through this very thing on my '69. It does the same thing, now I just put the glass in my brothers car in Dec. last year and it went in okay. One thing I forget when assembling mine is which rubber stop goes where? I have a thick and a thin and when they contact the strips at the top the glass tips in bad. Does the thick bumper go to the front? Thanks Wes
 

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OK, I've searched the site, and this tread is about my problem as well. My (67) drivers side window has a gap along the aft edge, nearly 1/2 inch at the top where the gap is biggest.

I've removed the trim panels and tried some adjustments, but I can't get the window to seal against the weather seals. For some reason it looks like the whole window needs to be adjusted towards the rear as well, is this possible?

If I can tilt the top of the window inwards, it would be a great start.
 

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Thanks jimM !!!
To tip the top of the glass in when closed, adjust the top of the tracks OUT, not in.

After a zillion attemptsto get the glass to seal firmly against the seals on m drivers side, your intel made it happen. Iof counterintutive to push out to make it go in...till i noticed that when the window is up....the top of the track is actually the BOTTOM of the window....SIGH....should have read your post better months ago....I had tried shimming the outer felt strips ( helped a little..but not right.), replacing the pads where the lower windo mount hits when rolled up window ( also helped but not right.) , releasing pressure on the inner two felt guides ( Helped alot but still not right and then with the window down the window flops around when you drive...that cant be good.) to no avail....

Last night with the interior panel off for like the 10th time...though getting good at it now.....and sitting in the drivers seat I adjusted the upper track mounts OUT....instead of in andimediately noticed the upper portion of the window tilted in against the seals....~....WOOO.....and few tweaks and adjustments later and the windo sits level, glides into the seals perfectly, slams shut perfectly, and seals 100%. I was even able to repressure the inner felt guides ( remember that previously tried fix) so the window has zero play when down and it still seats perfectly everytime....WOOOO....

Thanks so much for posting that....
Skybrake
68 RS
 

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If anyone has any info on 68 window adjustment, please post.
Thank you
Donnie
 

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I'm having the same problem on my 69. On one side it doesn't even roll up all the way to touch the roof weatherstripping. When it's lowered, it goes to the right position so I'm having a hard time trying to decide how to adjust it.
 

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If anyone has any info on 68 window adjustment, please post.
Thank you
Donnie

This is what I have done on many cars with success, cant say that it's right or wrong just how I have done it. :)


To move the glass forward or backward just loosen the two bolts at the top rear channel and slide the it towards the front of the car to move the glass forward or to the rear to move the glass back. A little movement of the channel makes a noticeable difference in the glass position.

To tilt the top of the glass in or out you would adjust both upper channel mounts in or out. This works in reverse so for example if you want to tilt the top of the glass in towards the car you would move the top of the channel out away from the car. I hope that makes sense,;) and vice versa to pull the top of the glass out adjust the channel in.

To adjust the height of the glass when rolled up there is a stop on both channels that controls how high the glass will go. On the rear of the door it is held by two bolts and is a little pot metal or aluminum block looking thing with a point on top. The stop on the front is held with just one bolt and is a small L shaped piece. What I normally do is just loosen them both slightly and roll the glass to where i want it to sit in the weather strip channel and then tighten the bolts. :)


I hope this helps..
 

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I have that little "L" removed on my front window on my 69 and my window is still canted forward. Ive been messing with this window for 3 months now on and off. I have become used to the look of no door panel on my car lol
 

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Nick,

Thanks so much! I'll try that method here in the next few weeks
 

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I have that little "L" removed on my front window on my 69 and my window is still canted forward. Ive been messing with this window for 3 months now on and off. I have become used to the look of no door panel on my car lol

Ray,
Just guessing here, but if you have the "L" shaped stop removed from the front channel and the front of the glass still wont come up, I bet the little roller that rides in that short horizontal channel at the front of the glass is broken.

I hope this helps & good luck..
Nick
 
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