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Discussion Starter #1
68 Cam RS.

Replacing bulbs in gauge cluster, have always had issues with turn signal lights remaining on,etc. Noted no ground wire on gauge cluster back.

So from what i have read:
1- When looking from back of cluster, ground wire would be connect to uppper right screw that is connected to the circut board.
2- Wire would loop to Highbeam connection harness, then connection is grounded to the body when it connects to dash when center screw on console unit is secured to dash. (alternate is to run to another ground on steering column etc.)

-Sorry for dumb question- Can wire be silver or copper and what gauge. I have a roll of the silver 16. Not sure on electical stuff and what the difference is. Thanks in advance.
68camrs
 

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The "stock ground" used flat pieces of metal that attached to the screw you show, then to the high beam indicator, then up to behind the top center screw.

It's important that the high beam indicator socket is assembled in the right order, the red lens FIRST, then the 2 ground straps, then the bulb socket.
Even then, this is a very iffy grounding method.

I ran an additional wire, and directly attached it with a separate screw to the dash structure.
 

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I did that image in the other post using a '67 cluster.

As Jim mentioned, the factory ground is really bad. I run a dedicated ground wire off the back of the cluster. This makes a big difference and no one will see it.

A lot of issues are that the circuit board isn't grounded to the cluster with the sheet metal screws. I highlighted the ground screw for the dash lights in my picture that is usually the culprit.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When you say you grounded the cluster, are you using this screw on the circuit board? I ran a wire like the stock ground setup using that screw (yellow line), then another from the screw with the yellow line labeled ground screw to a body ground. Or is any screw on the cluster ok to use for this ground? I guess my confusion is what screw on the cluster to use, is any ok or does it need to be the specific screw in your pic? Thanks for your help and the pic.

Also, do you know if the grey connectors need to be in those specifc slots and or why? I have two but they were placed in other slots. In total i have 8 small black 194 bulb type connectors and two of the larger grey ones. Thanks again.
 

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Also, do you know if the grey connectors need to be in those specifc slots and or why? I have two but they were placed in other slots. In total i have 8 small black 194 bulb type connectors and two of the larger grey ones. Thanks again.
I noticed the same thing. I have one grey connector on each side of the PCB. I was under the impression they were for either a turn signal or idiot light, while the others (194) in black were for illumination.

Can anyone confirm?

Thanks.
 

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I noticed the same thing. I have one grey connector on each side of the PCB. I was under the impression they were for either a turn signal or idiot light, while the others (194) in black were for illumination.

Can anyone confirm?

Thanks.
No. I have 2 gray ones and 8 black. all the bulbs are 194's (or were until I replced the illum bulbs with 7 watt 1893's) It had been apart before, and the gray ones were not in any logical place when I first took it apart.
 

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No. I have 2 gray ones and 8 black. all the bulbs are 194's (or were until I replced the illum bulbs with 7 watt 1893's) It had been apart before, and the gray ones were not in any logical place when I first took it apart.
The grey and black boots take different bulbs. The 1893's fit the grey and would be a 7 watt replacement for 1816. The 168's are 5 watts and are the only ones 3 different places could find to replace the 194's.

Do you perhaps have different boots that 1893's fit all of them?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Anybody get an answer to this issue as far as where the two grey fittings vs the regular 8 black bulb holders fit into the console? Seems like 2 vs 8 is normal, just where they go is open.
 

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Not to hijack this thread, but i'm not getting any power to the back of the panel for the gauge lights (the gray wire). Does this power not come from the dark green wire leaving the headlight switch? I have power leaving on this wire and I am assuming it's spliced to the gray wire going to the back of the panel. Is there something i am missing here?
 

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Is there something i am missing here?
Yes, just one little thing.

The dark green wire goes to the fusebox, to one side of the short fuse on the bottom. The gray wire comes off the other side of that fuse and feeds the ILLUM circuit.
 

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Anybody get an answer to this issue as far as where the two grey fittings vs the regular 8 black bulb holders fit into the console? Seems like 2 vs 8 is normal, just where they go is open.
I used the two grey fittings for turn signals. It would seem to make sense since there are two turn signals. :yes:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Found this in Factory Assembly Manual Pg 162. UPC 12 B3.

Socket Asm (Gray)
Brake TT.
Generator TT.

One Socket Asm (blk)
Oil Pressure.

All other appear to accept the Socket Asm Black for Opt Bulbs

So i think there are actually 3 diff sockets on this area.
 

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Found this in Factory Assembly Manual Pg 162. UPC 12 B3.

Socket Asm (Gray)
Brake TT.
Generator TT.

One Socket Asm (blk)
Oil Pressure.

All other appear to accept the Socket Asm Black for Opt Bulbs

So i think there are actually 3 diff sockets on this area.
Yes, I noticed that yesterday as well. All of the black sockets except one use the peanut bulbs (194 or 168). Since I added a tach I excluded the oil pressure socket.

So the grey are for the idiot lights? Interesting.
 

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Yes, just one little thing.

The dark green wire goes to the fusebox, to one side of the short fuse on the bottom. The gray wire comes off the other side of that fuse and feeds the ILLUM circuit.
My fuse is fine. I guess i have a bad connection leaving the block on the gray wire. Thanks for the help Jim.

Mike
 
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