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Hello everyone,
I hope you are all doing well. I just picked up a 69 302 DZ engine and I want to go through it before I put it in my 69. Where can I find all the specs needed to put it back together? Is there a website or manual that would give all the torque numbers from the oil pan through to the intake and how to adjust the valves? Does the 302 have solid lifters? I need to find out all I can about the 302. I also need to know what size and brand (ZOOM?) clutch should be used with the 302. Where is the best place to get the gaskets? Is it okay to run synthetic oil? I know it's a lot of questions. Where can I find answers? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
 

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Where can I find all the specs needed to put it back together? Is there manual that would give all the torque numbers from the oil pan through to the intake?

All of the torque specs are listed in the Chassis Service manual.

Is there a manual that would {tell} how to adjust the valves?

Service Manual tells you how to adjust your valves.

Does the 302 have solid lifters?

Yes it left the factory with solid flat tappets.


I need to find out all I can about the 302. I also need to know what size and brand (ZOOM?) clutch should be used with the 302.

Zoom still sells the same purple clutch disc and pressure plate that is in your car now.Your transmission had in 1969 a 10 spline, 1 1/8 in. diameter input shaft (don't know if it still does as newer Muncie transmissions have a 26 spline input shaft), and I believe the Z had an 11 inch clutch disc (168 tooth flywheel) instead of the more common 10.4 inch diameter clutch (153 tooth flywheel); which could have also been changed in the past.

Changing from a 153 tooth flywheel to a 168 tooth flywheel requires changing the starter motor to match the tooth count as well.


Where is the best place to get the gaskets?

NAPA

Is it okay to run synthetic oil?

No: not without a rebuild to use newer gaskets. It will leak even worse with synthetic than it does with mineral based oils.

Big Dave
 

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Thank you Big Dave,
You answered all my questions. I will get the manuals. Folks like you and the Camaros.net is a wealth of information. Love this site!

Thanks again,
Rusty
 

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Is there a VIN on the block?
 

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Is the 302 in pieces?
I assume you will have a Machine shop check it out. Tank, bore, align bore, rehab rods, turn or polish crank, check bearing clearances?
Mine was born as a 350, found new 302 crank in AZ. I do run 11" clutch and Mobile 1 synthetic. Started out with 20/50 Castrol then later changed. Does not leak much at all but also doesn't go out much.
 
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Thanks for posting.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Is the 302 in pieces?
I assume you will have a Machine shop check it out. Tank, bore, align bore, rehab rods, turn or polish crank, check bearing clearances?
Mine was born as a 350, found new 302 crank in AZ. I do run 11" clutch and Mobile 1 synthetic. Started out with 20/50 Castrol then later changed. Does not leak much at all but also doesn't go out much.
It's not in parts yet. I just pulled the heads to see the condition of the cylinders and pistons. The guy I bought if from had bought it from a guy that said it was rebuilt, balanced and blue printed less that 10,000 miles ago. It looks pretty good except for the #1 piston has a scar. Don't know what would cause that. The valves for all cylinders appear in good condition. 2 of the pistons on the left side have different stamps on them. 6 pistons are stamped 030 and 2 are stamped 7001P 030.
264721
264722
264723
264724
264725
 

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Almost looks like a casting flaw on the piston. They are all 30 over pistons so the numbers don't matter if the domes are all the same size. 10.5 is what I recall on the clutch . My belhousing was destroyed so I now have a 11" in mine. Zoom still makes the same clutch, but don't get confused on the colors. They claim that they stopped painting them to do their part in saving the environment. Sounds like saving a buck to me. The one I used was called a muscle car clutch. Good find.

I always adjust the lifters with a feeler gauge at 30 on both intake and exhaust. Hope this helps.
 

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It is 10.5.
The 403 bell housing was used for the 10.5 clutch.
The 621 was used for the 11 inch clutch.

The 69 Z/28 used the 403. The 70 LT-1 Covette used the 621, and the 11 inch clutch.
 

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Really don't like that piston. Speed Pro still has them in 12.5:1 like mine, a little much. You could have them milled to cut that down. Any cross hatch left in the bores?
So far looks pretty clean, bearing condition will tell.
 

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10.5 on the clutch. Dropping my DZ in today and used this McLeod.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Almost looks like a casting flaw on the piston. They are all 30 over pistons so the numbers don't matter if the domes are all the same size. 10.5 is what I recall on the clutch . My belhousing was destroyed so I now have a 11" in mine. Zoom still makes the same clutch, but don't get confused on the colors. They claim that they stopped painting them to do their part in saving the environment. Sounds like saving a buck to me. The one I used was called a muscle car clutch. Good find.

I always adjust the lifters with a feeler gauge at 30 on both intake and exhaust. Hope this helps.
I thought it might be in the casting also but wondered why they went ahead and put it in. Thanks for the info. I had heard to adjust valves to 30 also. Thank you.
 

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I don't think that's a casting flaw but regardless I wouldn't use that piston. What does the corresponding valve and head area look like?
I think that piston crack might be caused by detonation. I had a set of Keith Black hyperutectic pistons that failed with detonation, cracking around the perimeter and breaking off bits of the top edges of the pistons. Changed to forged pistons after that and corrected timing. Are those pistons cast of forged?
 

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Regardless, I wouldn't feel comfortable using it either.
 
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I don't know about stock but most after market 302 pistons are Forgings not cast. Not right.
 
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