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Discussion Starter #1
I am starting this a little late as I am almost finished my LS swap.

I have always wanted a 69 camaro since I was about 10 years old. One popped up on my facebook feed 2 years ago and it was a 69 Z28 clone in the color I always wanted. There were about 50 replies in 20 minutes on the posting. I took a big risk and transferred a deposit that night to the seller. I didn't actually get to see the car in person until 2 weeks later due to my work schedule.

As far as I have researched the car started out as a v8 automatic in glacier blue. It was imported to Alberta Canada from florida around 2002. As far as I know the restoration occurred in Florida prior to 2002. The car is in overall good condition but has a few flaws mainly a poor sunroof patch job. I bought the car with a 350 and T5.

Some pictures of the car after it was delivered to me
IMG_6842.jpg IMG_6844.jpg IMG_6846.jpg IMG_6848.jpg IMG_6852.jpg .
 

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I drove the car as is for 2018 and 2019 and the early part of 2020. It leaked a lot of oil and was far too gutless for a 69 camaro, but it was still fun to drive. Driving on 50 year old steering and suspension sure makes for some tense moments. I have included a picture of my clutch safety switch required to pass out of province inspection. (we can't get storage insurance in BC until the vehicle passes inspection, even if the vehicle won't be insured for driving)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I started collecting parts in the fall of 2019 for the ls swap.
-TR6060 with a magnum conversion and McLeod rxt dual disc.
-LS1 bottom end with 233/239 111LSA cam.
-Advanced induction 226 Cnc ported 243 heads
-Holley blackheart stainless headers/3” exhaust and mounts
-Holley terminator x
-Victor JR and 4150 throttlebody
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Discussion Starter #4
Fast forward to May 2020. Removed the old boat anchor. It was a real DZ302 intake manifold though. Some lame 70s 305 heads and 350 bottom end. I kept the original valve covers and air cleaner assembly to disguise the LS as I want to keep the Z28 theme going but just a little more modern.
 

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Fast forward to June 2020. Got my accessory setup mocked up to mimic the 1969 appearance. My tr6060 came with oem style connectors that were all melted. Seems like this transmission came from a burnt car. I hope it works haha. I decided to weld -4an fitting to the original Camaro fitting in the slave cylinder. This way it uses dual oring seal like oem and the -4 braided line connects to my McLeod clutch pedal setup. (I also drilled the hole in my McLeod clutch pedal for the oem clutch safety switch, no more zap straps and electrical tape)

measured my clutch slave to pressure plate and did not need any shims So that was good.

I don’t have a flywheel holder tool to torque the arp flywheel bolts so I used some water pump pliers and soft jaws from a vise as spacers for my bolts. Worked great D734C3EF-F39D-4F92-B226-ACE9CAE89AA1.jpeg E30F7EE7-DC31-4276-9454-444D92460FCC.jpeg C269E14C-0559-4FD6-8C46-B8F649672A0D.jpeg EB2B179D-63D8-4814-A9AE-D2310DDDC90D.jpeg 3FA9E826-60C2-4EF7-B715-051486A56C3E.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I was really hoping to get the engine and trans installed in 1 piece as doing it on my back under the car doesn’t sound fun. Also the tr6060 bellhousing is not removable so I wasn’t sure if there would even be enough room to install it underneath.

I had to remove the shifter plate to clear the firewall during install. Also my leveller on the engine hoist I installed backwards so the handle would interfere with the hoist but I managed.

my worst fear was damaging the paint or the Chinese engine hoist breaking and slamming the engine into the rad support. But all went well.

I installed the new borgeson steering box and blackheart 1 7/8” headers. I will need to grind down 1 bolt on the steering Box as the headers are rubbing it. For some reason borgeson used excessively tall bolt heads. 911FD3A1-15CA-4E17-8554-0B5958C61213.jpeg A3DB55B7-E688-42E9-A682-EACF45A3AA1F.jpeg FEE813B2-CA86-40C1-BBB0-1DADDF9E962E.jpeg E208B84B-E40F-458B-BC55-E6DD9AF35E0F.jpeg 18BA2ABB-A4AD-4258-BC04-E5CB7F2CEC1E.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So my fancy Holley crossmember wouldn’t fit. It turns out a tr6060 with the magnum tail housing is about 1.5” longer due to the oil pump setup in the tr6060. It also places the tail housing on an angle. I had to really hack the crossmember up in order to clear the tailhousing, but overall I’m happy how it will look with the console. I ended up making it so I have room to shim the tail housing up if required depending on my driveline angles.


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Discussion Starter #9
So after many hours on the dayco website searching for a hose with 1.25 and 1.5 openings that might fit l99 water pump and stock rad. There were a few options, a 90s f250 (Didn’t fit) and a 2006-2012 rav 4 v6 lower rad hose. Well guess what? My daily is a 2007 rav4, so I brought out the measuring tape and sure enough I think it will work. It fits right on with no cutting. Part number is in the picture.

I cut out the floor so I can remove the shifter if required in the future. Maybe someone can tell me if the white hurst ball and chrome shift handle were period correct back in the 60s and 70s?

next I started working on some wiring. I cracked the small block heater core by jacking the engine into it by mistake. Luckily not too much coolant went in my interior. I didn’t want to cut up the firewall for my ecu wiring so I took the heater core out and it turns out there is a gap on the side closest to the blower motor. I drilled a 2” holesaw into the firewall heater panel for my grommet and terminator wiring. I think this will still allow me to install a big block heater core when the time comes.
I really like the wiring location, it allows me to run the power and ground to the battery hidden under the fender. And the main harness will run along the firewall.

started mocking up ideas for my coilpacks. I want to hide them under the air cleaner and run the wires like a distributor. It sure is a rats nest of wiring at the moment but I just want the car running and then make everything nice during the winter when I install my aaw classic update harness.
D25D3A03-8CDF-4DBE-8D34-CE7C8D574203.jpeg B12EE203-FB12-4633-A5AE-2A6C8ED32537.jpeg 908FEA82-5124-4325-9E83-71B8E1CC089C.jpeg D067DB36-4116-44D4-910A-CC65B0D90067.jpeg 3F97E15F-10E5-43F9-B1C4-C0E4F882D152.jpeg ACFB6D17-F717-49E0-9F4D-7F64B3DDEC6D.jpeg 337B1F2F-2AD8-477F-BB17-ACD3524098E3.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I was mocking up the air cleaner and it sits pretty high. I did close the hood by accident when I was distracted on phone call and thought I bent the hood, but looking back at previous pictures it always sat a bit high near the center of the fenders. If need be the victor jr has approx .500 that can be machined off the top compared to the Holley single plane. I can also modify the air cleaner assembly where it mounts to the throttle body.

Driveshaft was shorted approx 2.5” from when the t5 was installed. Driveshaft is now installed.

still working out power steering hoses. In the pic is a stock ls1 pressure hose. I think I will just convert to power steering an fittings and run underneath the pump to the borgeson box.

Started to work on some wiring. I was unwrapping the alternator Wiring and found the connections were just twisted around each other and then covered in MASKING TAPE! No crimps or solder anywhere. Must have run like this for 20+ years.

pretty happy with how the Ls looks so far. I’ve been selling some old parts and 2 people that came to buy them have been fooled at first glance that it was a sbc or bbc.

tomorrow is a 4 hour drive to buy my fuel system fittings, transmission oil fittings and still waiting for an order from summit to arrive.



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Discussion Starter #12
Got my power steering pressure hose on today. I’m not very happy with it but it was made in 5mins and will get me going. Rated for 5000psi. Converted to using metric oring fittings in my borgeson box. The return barn only came in a 90 but I un ended it to 45 and it fits good. 4E6B0EE1-DFF5-4B7C-AFC1-CE08A654CC20.jpeg 81F7946D-30B4-4B05-9B3C-65DEBA541943.jpeg 9A26E24C-F736-4022-ABA1-070FC8E71508.jpeg
 

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got most of my fuel system sorted. Swagelok style adapter off of the Holley retrofit pump. I used -8an after that all the way to the fuel rail. Doesn’t cost much more than -6 but gives me more room. I followed the factory hard line routing and used rubber coated clamps with the oem bolts. -10 micron fuel filter on my subframe.

also received my msd solid state relay to supply power to my rad fan and fuel pump. It takes switched 12v or ground from the Holley And can also work with pwm. It has 4 20amp circuits which can be combined. Seems awesome on paper

Lastly received my terminator screen mount that replaces my dash fuel gauge. I was happy to learn that I can use the oem bezel to keep it looking original. I will remove the 51 year old plastic screen though. I really like this piece.
A1DFF1E9-2DF5-4D45-BCF6-EC741445AC38.jpeg 59515A13-1009-42F6-8DED-D41321FCC43D.jpeg E30C9D7A-0696-4F58-90BB-703EB6CDA262.jpeg C1F620D8-D0FA-44BC-984A-C4E61EF8A28C.jpeg 69499B25-CA1C-43EE-8F78-A74E1DFDB7CB.jpeg AC304571-6540-44F7-9824-CE4807E60173.jpeg FF84C7E0-7CF5-438C-8F1E-C5AB18DD5956.jpeg 3F2EAD0A-00E9-409D-9472-AB8494F27090.jpeg
 
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