The consensus is that if you are going OEM the American Auto Wire Factory Fit line is the way to go. Easy to understand and its basically unplug, carefully note path and routing of old harness, then plug and play install. Dash can be done in one afternoon, just keep focused and on point and it will go right the first time. Getting distracted and starting and stopping because people are pulling you away to cut the grass, rake leaves or shovel snow are to be avoided.
The AAW classic update lit allows foe new style blade fuses in the panel and you can customize it for newer features.
Pull the speedo cluster for sure,
and maybe the radio then it should should be able to do it ok.
I had everything out of the dash,including the dash pad, glove box liner,heater controls... so it was easy to get everything tucked in like it should. I also used the factory assembly manual as a guide, I wouldn't have been able to as good of job without it since it shows all the wire routing.
Pull the entire dash cluster and wiring harness out as a unit and put it on he bench, unplug the old and and leave it to look at what goes where. A lot of the connectors can only go on one way, very easy on the bench, a nightmare to try and do under the dash
I had the dash taken apart already , that might take a couple hrs or so.
I put the dash and rear light harness in on a Saturday.
The night before I had the old dash harness and new dash harness laying out on the garage floor. I put my new harness completely in the braided style wire loom, with the connections dropped out and taped at the right spots mirroring the old harness,
Having it all in the wire loom made It easy to move around under the dash, it really made for clean install, but it's not necessary.
Just get the correct tape for wire harness, pvc or cloth. don't use regular electrical tape.
X2 as stated you will be following the factory process, fuse box / bulkhead connector out to the last connection - maybe the glove box if I remember right.
Here is a video of the harness tied off but as stated wrapping and tie off, and route the original path.Take a ton of pictures for reference and if need be use crime scene markers to add reference points because after a while all under dash locations look the same. Dash carrier and instruments, radio out, drivers side kick and threshold out, slight differences for vehicles that are 'verts vs. coupes, console vs non console and auto vs manual transmission.
Yeah its a fun project too. Just keep organized and focused and it will be successful.
The threshold is the area at the bottom of the door opening. There is a channel where the wiring to the trunk area sits as well as rear power window lines and stereo wires are hidden. These exist on both sides of the vehicle.
On top of the channel there is a grey metal threshold plate, your carpet finishes out on top of this plate but beneath the door sill trim which is chrome with the fisher body emblems.
No. the intermediate harness connector are located under the dash by the parking brake. You might not need to remove the drivers kick panel if you do not have power windows or under dash courtesy lights. So its looking like just your dash carrier needs to be removed.
I have to agree the AAW kit is the best, I just recently removed all the wiring from my 69 and replaced all the wiring harness's though out the car. The AAW kit was complete and accurate provided you tell them 'exactly what you want. I used the AM for any issues i had, but AAW tech support was very helpful at times and they seemed to have a better diagram available to them than my AM?
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