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Discussion Starter #201
That interior is going to look very bad the incorrect finish. In a thread you read I already stated the dash top was zero gloss with a suede additive. With the right code any jobber can mix interior paint correctly for all parts. Not the GM 715 code either, the actual paint formula. There's a difference. http://www.tcpglobal.com/autocolorlibrary/aclchip.aspx?image=1969-chevrolet-pg02.jpg
Where's that shop owner? He should know all this.
And if you know how to use the right technique you can accompish the dash top by under reducing and dry spraying it. Even if you don't, just zero gloss on the dash top is better than what you have. Kind of puts all that research about correct finishes you asked out the window. Did you mask the defroster ductwork or paint it?
Hey Scott not sure what you mean by this question.
Did you mask the defroster ductwork or paint it? are you refering to the front defroster. I did not mask it, but should have correct?
 

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You give the jobber the code. The tints required in the formula are pulled from the mixing machine used to make the paint. This includes flattening agents as well. You don't get two cans, one with color and one with agent. The formula designates the amount to be used in the mix. You go home, open the can and shoot it. I stated the texture additive so you make sure the jobber adds it; which they should. Every shop owner knows the process of how paint is mixed, at least on this planet. Collision shops have their own systems usually and mix in house. Does this guy explain this to you or are you not asking so as not to bother him? A jobber will even explain it if you want. It's not a secret. Ask them to go in back and look at the system. Reading this entire site should keep you busy, this is just part of it. Note the ancillaries and tints: https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProdu...?BrandID=5d7b4ed7-f83a-4469-b68c-04551702a5df

The defroster duct was installed after paint and should not be blue.
 

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Mike, I sprayed my blue interior car with base coat very dry with lower pressure to get the suede textured look. The paint store should have the interior paint code if you look at the 1969 GM interior colors. There should not be that many blue colors. If you have any original pieces they can color match for you. You will get one hell of a reflection with the gloss. Have you thought of painting the car Dusk Blue with white stripes?
 

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Mike, I sprayed my blue interior car with base coat very dry with lower pressure to get the suede textured look. The paint store should have the interior paint code if you look at the 1969 GM interior colors. There should not be that many blue colors. If you have any original pieces they can color match for you. You will get one hell of a reflection with the gloss. Have you thought of painting the car Dusk Blue with white stripes?
I told him that in post #191 and the paint codes also on the GM chart. Paint codes saturate this site. I would think the shop owner should know all the spraying tecniques anyway. He's far from green. But anything is possible. Here's a thread on one person's dash spraying techniques. Not to hard to master. http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=179582&highlight=nailed Perhaps many don't follow all these lengthy build threads closely, I don't. If you ask a question pertaning to a particular area you will get a faster response. Like in the restoration section, etc. Faster data retrieval. :)
 

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That is a great thread to reference the technique from. :yes: I have it saved so I can remind myself later on how to paint my dash panel.
 

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That is a great thread to reference the technique from. :yes: I have it saved so I can remind myself later on how to paint my dash panel.
The same results occur when people screw up a paint job. There are dry spots in many. It's simple manipulation of the gun and product. It's basically a form of stippling. Varying reduction, pressure and technique produces different results.
 

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Would practicing on a large sheet of cardboard be sufficient for attaining the proper texture and look? or should it be a large flat metal panel so it has the same adhesion and leveling properties? I want to practice first, but want to make it effective practicing. :yes:
 

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Would practicing on a large sheet of cardboard be sufficient for attaining the proper texture and look? or should it be a large flat metal panel so it has the same adhesion and leveling properties? I want to practice first, but want to make it effective practicing. :yes:
Isn't cardboard porous?
 

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Isn't cardboard porous?
Definitely, but will it provide an ample practice surface, or should I use a scrap trunk lid or flat panel instead? I am solely concerned with reproducing the proper texture and appearance for the dash panel.

* Sorry to creep in on your thread Mike, but I thought it would help us all ultimately. I will be at this step sooner than later too...
 

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Discussion Starter #211
You give the jobber the code. The tints required in the formula are pulled from the mixing machine used to make the paint. This includes flattening agents as well. You don't get two cans, one with color and one with agent. The formula designates the amount to be used in the mix. You go home, open the can and shoot it. I stated the texture additive so you make sure the jobber adds it; which they should. Every shop owner knows the process of how paint is mixed, at least on this planet. Collision shops have their own systems usually and mix in house. Does this guy explain this to you or are you not asking so as not to bother him? A jobber will even explain it if you want. It's not a secret. Ask them to go in back and look at the system. Reading this entire site should keep you busy, this is just part of it. Note the ancillaries and tints: https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProdu...?BrandID=5d7b4ed7-f83a-4469-b68c-04551702a5df

The defroster duct was installed after paint and should not be blue.
Sorry Scott not sure what the defroster duct is? The 2 vents on the dash or the rear defroster cover?
 

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Discussion Starter #212
I told him that in post #191 and the paint codes also on the GM chart. Paint codes saturate this site. I would think the shop owner should know all the spraying tecniques anyway. He's far from green. But anything is possible. Here's a thread on one person's dash spraying techniques. Not to hard to master. http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=179582&highlight=nailed Perhaps many don't follow all these lengthy build threads closely, I don't. If you ask a question pertaning to a particular area you will get a faster response. Like in the restoration section, etc. Faster data retrieval. :)
Thanks Scott that is helpful. I will get the paint and re-shoot it. I think the owner left it up to his supplier to match the paint by eye. Not sure why, but I will find out tomorrow when I get it sorted out. Thanks for point that out to me before I get the glass in. That would have really sucked.
 

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Discussion Starter #213
Definitely, but will it provide an ample practice surface, or should I use a scrap trunk lid or flat panel instead? I am solely concerned with reproducing the proper texture and appearance for the dash panel.

* Sorry to creep in on your thread Mike, but I thought it would help us all ultimately. I will be at this step sooner than later too...
No worries Todd that is what it is here for. Had all this dash paint conversion not started in the first place I may have installed my glass on top of that finish which I am sure I would have hated at some point and really regreted. I now have all of the correct info and will order the paint tomorrow and shoot it on Monday. My question now is, should I sand down all of the paint that was just spray and how much. Just want to make sure that I get it right. Next I will have to make sure that I get the finishes right for the rest of the underhood parts. That is whay I started that thead, so I would get the the correct procedure. All of the parts have been sand blasted and shot with etching primer. What do I need to do next? Is there more priming, sanding or cleaning or do I just apply the paint. I really want to make sure that all of the parts are done correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #214
The defroster duct was installed after paint and should not be blue.
I think you mean the duct that is on the dash and that the holes should be filled so the overspary does not go down there. No it was not masked. Should I paint it black inside, before I re apply the new dash paint? Or should I just leave it?
 

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I think you mean the duct that is on the dash and that the holes should be filled so the overspary does not go down there. No it was not masked. Should I paint it black inside, before I re apply the new dash paint? Or should I just leave it?
Well the only way to do it right is to pull the duct and remove the paint, but that is the part that goes in before everything else under the dash. I cringe saying this but you can shoot it satin black inside now but have no way to ensure adhesion. Before you prep and reshoot the glossy blue, it needs to be known with what type of paint you just shot it.
 

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Discussion Starter #216
Well the only way to do it right is to pull the duct and remove the paint, but that is the part that goes in before everything else under the dash. I cringe saying this but you can shoot it satin black inside now but have no way to ensure adhesion. Before you prep and reshoot the glossy blue, it needs to be known with what type of paint you just shot it.
Thanks Scott I will get that info tomorrow and post here. I can say that I am not going to pull the ducts out at this point. I wish I would have known all of this stuff before it would have cost me time and money. Anything else I need to know feel free to share. I am not doing a full frame off resto, but I would like to get the things that I can right moving forward.

As for the underhood parts I will get the SEM paint, just need to know the proper ratio for mixing it to get the right shades of black. I know it gives percentages in the chart but it means nothing to me. Any advice is appreciated.
 

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SEM already comes flattened to approx 30-35% gloss, so you can't increase it. It does need to be reduced, so read the can. I already touched on this too. I use lacquer thinner or urethane reducer. SEM is the same sheen as PPG 9266 black. More gloss in your blacks would require buying black lacquer (or urethane) and knocking it back on your own with flattening agent to get the gloss desired. If you look on the link I gave you, 9266 is for black interiors as well. See how the sheens for your blue and black are within the codes and formula? Dash tops are a different code.

The heater box cover is black lacquer shot unflattened. And as I said before, lacquer is not as glossy as urethane shot unflattened. Different animals.
 

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Discussion Starter #218
SEM already comes flattened to approx 30-35% gloss, so you can't increase it. It does need to be reduced, so read the can. I already touched on this too. I use lacquer thinner or urethane reducer. SEM is the same sheen as PPG 9266 black. More gloss in your blacks would require buying black lacquer (or urethane) and knocking it back on your own with flattening agent to get the gloss desired. If you look on the link I gave you, 9266 is for black interiors as well. See how the sheens for your blue and black are within the codes and formula? Dash tops are a different code.

The heater box cover is black lacquer shot unflattened. And as I said before, lacquer is not as glossy as urethane shot unflattened. Different animals.

Thanks Scott as per a previous post this is the paint I was planning on using. Is this the right paint and is it already flat/non gloss? Also I assume that I can use this paint on everything except the heater box cover. I am painting firewall, inner fenders, fender braces, etc. Also would this work for pullys and subframe?

SEM Paints 39141 Trim Black

I have been looking on line to find a car with the right finshes for reference. I have found a few but I am not sure if they are correct. If you have a picture showing the right paint please let me know.
 

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Various pulley finishes are acceptable, I have not read this until recently. http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=7128.0 The alternator fan on the chart you have is 67 only: http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=1512.0 SEM is fine for the frame. Keep in mind it is not a catylized paint like the Chassis Blacks available. I have had no issues with it and I drive my car in the weather, even after a frame off and have no frame paint failures at all. My inners are shot with satin urethane only because I had it in stock. SEM is durable paint and easy to spray, dries fast with a great finish.

If you read the chart the 30% does not apply to everything. It's up to you how nuts you want to get with detailing. Find a pic of John Z's survivor engine on CRG. They are on there. Search "vacuum hoses" or similar. Or see if firstgenaddict has one done.

Subframes? For what it's worth, read how these cars were not built with a show finish in mind: http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=5559.0

I'm outta here.........
 

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Discussion Starter #220
Various pulley finishes are acceptable, I have not read this until recently. http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=7128.0 The alternator fan on the chart you have is 67 only: http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=1512.0 SEM is fine for the frame. Keep in mind it is not a catylized paint like the Chassis Blacks available. I have had no issues with it and I drive my car in the weather, even after a frame off and have no frame paint failures at all. My inners are shot with satin urethane only because I had it in stock. SEM is durable paint and easy to spray, dries fast with a great finish.

If you read the chart the 30% does not apply to everything. It's up to you how nuts you want to get with detailing. Find a pic of John Z's survivor engine on CRG. They are on there. Search "vacuum hoses" or similar. Or see if firstgenaddict has one done.

Subframes? For what it's worth, read how these cars were not built with a show finish in mind: http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=5559.0

I'm outta here.........
Thanks scott as always very helpful and educational. Nice to know I am getting the best possible advice for my project. Many thanks. If I ever make it to CT I owe you :beers: :beers: :beers:
 
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