I had a contacr like that, but it wouldn't work on my column. Fortunately, I had another contact, that was a little different, and would fit. It was a plastic sleeve, about 1" long, that had two little tangs on it. You aligned the tangs with two of slots in the hole in the column, pushed in, and twiwted the sleeve. (much like a turn sigbal bulb).
So mine was: contact button, then spring, then plastic sleeve, all strung on a 3" wire. This wire was crimped to the two wires from the two horn buttons.
I read the section of the assembly manual that is shown. It refers to a "contact assembly" and a spring. No mention of a pin or clip (bushing). PAULM, I am frustrated as you were. The parts I bought from Rick's don't seem to make sense. Any one out there willing to take a picture? Thanks
Gary - I think you may have horn kits mixed up. The graphic Paul provided is for a std wheel (refrence UPC 12 C5). Now go look at UPC N34 A1 (my book pg 396) it uses a pin and is completely different. If you have a Grant wheel the install kit is a mix of the two... If you have a repop kit for either factory wheels the cam isn't made correct, at least in the one I got. I reused the old cam to make things work...
I have an original wheeel and shroud. I believe that averything is stock, but the connection from the horn button wires to the contact ring is missing. I am guessing that the pin and spring go in from the bottom of the contact ring. But what holds the "contact assembly" (wires connected from horn buttons with a brass rivet as shown in the assembly manual) to the pin?
Get my models mixed up. Is it set up the same way as the one in Tony's article? There's a white post that's shown in the second picture down, near the center shaft above the lock plate. This white plastic post comes up through a hole in the steering wheel. The post is part of the cancelling cam. Should have a couple of "ears" towards the top. The horn plunger assembly goes into it. http://www.carcraft.com/howto/56459/
I don't think there is a pin in your application. The cam has a sleeve that sticks up that goes through the wheel when it's mounted. The spring goes in then the ferrel (contact) with the 2 wires goes in and there should be a round piece that slides on the wires behind the ferrel. The round piece acts as a stopper and holds things in place. This is where having the right cam may come in play. The vinyl plastic wheel (rosewood or comfort grip) uses a pin and has a retainer that twists in the sleeve of the cam to hold the spring loaded pin in place.
Not my article Dennis. Tony wrote it. Picture of the late GM cancelling cam. Does yours look like this?? If so, the horn plunger assembly locks into it. Does this car take one or two wires out of the plunger? Have a two wire horn plunger I can drop in the mail if that's the problem. http://www.grumpystruckparts.net/item342436.ctlg
Well, Gary I have a 2 wire horn plunger assembly if that's the hang-up. As long as the cancelling cam doesn't have the 2 little ears broken off, the plunger assembly snaps and locks over it. The one I have is missing the lugs that snap to the horn button. However, I'll toss 2 or 3 new lugs in the envelope you can solder or crimp on.
If you need it send me the address and I'll toss it in an envelope. One more item I can clean out of my junk boxes.
(Back to the yard work).
Sorry for being a pain, but I pushed you guys into giving me the right info!
That is EXACTLY the info I needed. The assembly manual is a little foggy on this item. Don't see any lugs on my cam. I think that I need a new cam because the slider is too loose to stay in. Not enough interference to stay put. Now the archives have a perfect answer. Thanks for the article link John.
[ 09-20-2003, 12:11 PM: Message edited by: Gary L ]
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