Same shifter, with or without console.
69 Hurst Shifters
Were there different factory Hurst shifters used with or without a console on the 69 Z-28’s? I am trying to install a Hurst with the 3138 number stamped on it and it will not clear the factory hole in the floor enough to catch reverse. The car is pretty low mileage and still has the factory undercarriage paint on the hole that looks like it was cut through from the bottom with a cutting torch. It also looks like if I was to open up the hole some I then would run into the same problem with the insert from the console. Any help will be appreciated.
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Just curious.. does that shifter bolt to the side of the tailhousing or use the big U bolt around the end of the tailhousing and a bracket that goes under the motor mount?
If you do not have all the correct factory pieces, the shifter will be in the wrong place. I suspect your tranny tailhousing is wrong or the mounting bracket is wrong. It will matter if you have a small block or a big block as well.
-Mark.
-Mark.
Factory shifters bolt to a bracket that bolts to the tailhousing. As mentioned previously, the small block engine sits in the centerline of the car, so it uses a small bracket. The big block engine is offset to the passenger side, to allow clearance on the steering gear. So the bracket is longer, to bring the shifter back to the correct position. As a side note, since the shifter is now more outboard of the tranny, the big block shifter uses slightly different shifter linkage.
Factory shifters bolt to a bracket that bolts to the tailhousing. As mentioned previously, the small block engine sits in the centerline of the car, so it uses a small bracket. The big block engine is offset to the passenger side, to allow clearance on the steering gear. So the bracket is longer, to bring the shifter back to the correct position. As a side note, since the shifter is now more outboard of the tranny, the big block shifter uses slightly different shifter linkage.
I believe I have all the right parts to mount the shifter. I have the factory “9 hole” mounting plate which bolts to the tail shaft with the factory bolts. I did cruise ebay after I posted this yesterday and there is a shifter on there that looks like its what I need. That one has a 45 degree bend coming up from the shifter body to were the handle mounts. I think with that offset I would be OK. The shifter that I have does not have this offset. I can send a picture of mine if someone needs to see it. I wish I knew how to add the link to that picture on ebay. Now my question is how many different 3138 shifters are there, and what do I have?
If your shifter doesn't have the offset where the handle attaches it's wrong. The offset is unique to the first generation Camaro'
After reading Unreals reply, is there a different shifter for a big block? If the transmission were offset then I think this would work. The shifter has 3138 stamped on it. It also has "570922D" as well as the Hurst patent numbers. I am assuming D=April, 22=day, 9=1969, but I could be wrong.
BB and SB shifters are the same, as is with console and without console. BB uses a different mounting bracket and linkage rods.
Check out these pictures, it may be of some help http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1854288310
Heres another! hope this helps http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1854675481
[This message has been edited by Mr. C (edited 08-29-2002).]
[This message has been edited by Mr. C (edited 08-29-2002).]
The big block shifter assy is the same as the SB but the linkage and bkt are different. 3138 is correct but if you do not have the offset arm, someone has rebuilt it with aftermarket or non-Camaro specific parts. The factory stick does not use the 2 bolts to attach to the shifter. If you have 2 bolts holding the shifter stick on, it has definately been switched. Factory is a push in style attachment.
-Mark.
-Mark.
Mark,
What is the trick to getting the shifter tower loose from a factory shifter?
Thanks in advance,
Nick
------------------
69 Z/28 X77 D80 83700 original miles,DZ 302, M-21, BU 3:73 Rear End, ZL-2 Ducted Hood, Daytona Yellow, Black Deluxe, Tilt, Factory AM/FM, Console Gauges.
69 Z/28 X33 D80 Fathom Green, Trim 723, Protect o Plate Original 302 MIA M-20, BU 3:73 Rear End,Console Gauges
68 SS/RS 396 owned for 22 years
68 SS/RS Clone Drag Car,"The Evil Twin" Best run 10.39 @ 129.87
http://community.webshots.com/user/x77d80
What is the trick to getting the shifter tower loose from a factory shifter?
Thanks in advance,
Nick
------------------
69 Z/28 X77 D80 83700 original miles,DZ 302, M-21, BU 3:73 Rear End, ZL-2 Ducted Hood, Daytona Yellow, Black Deluxe, Tilt, Factory AM/FM, Console Gauges.
69 Z/28 X33 D80 Fathom Green, Trim 723, Protect o Plate Original 302 MIA M-20, BU 3:73 Rear End,Console Gauges
68 SS/RS 396 owned for 22 years
68 SS/RS Clone Drag Car,"The Evil Twin" Best run 10.39 @ 129.87
http://community.webshots.com/user/x77d80
My shifter has the push in style round handle that is shown in the Camaro assembly manual. The one I am removing has the flat handle that is bolted on, aftermarket shifters also have the front and rear stop bolts on the shifter housing. My guess might now be a past rebuild of the shifter with the wrong piece installed. Lots of the parts inside had numbers stamped on them. Anyone know what should be the right number for that offset handle attachment part?
Dusk Blue,
I am staring at the original shifter from my Fathom Green 69 Z and I dont see a number on the Offset handle attacment part. If somebody knows where the # should be, let me know and I will be glad to look for it.
Nick
------------------
69 Z/28 X77 D80 83700 original miles,DZ 302, M-21, BU 3:73 Rear End, ZL-2 Ducted Hood, Daytona Yellow, Black Deluxe, Tilt, Factory AM/FM, Console Gauges.
69 Z/28 X33 D80 Fathom Green, Trim 723, Protect o Plate Original 302 MIA M-20, BU 3:73 Rear End,Console Gauges
68 SS/RS 396 owned for 22 years
68 SS/RS Clone Drag Car,"The Evil Twin" Best run 10.39 @ 129.87
http://community.webshots.com/user/x77d80
I am staring at the original shifter from my Fathom Green 69 Z and I dont see a number on the Offset handle attacment part. If somebody knows where the # should be, let me know and I will be glad to look for it.
Nick
------------------
69 Z/28 X77 D80 83700 original miles,DZ 302, M-21, BU 3:73 Rear End, ZL-2 Ducted Hood, Daytona Yellow, Black Deluxe, Tilt, Factory AM/FM, Console Gauges.
69 Z/28 X33 D80 Fathom Green, Trim 723, Protect o Plate Original 302 MIA M-20, BU 3:73 Rear End,Console Gauges
68 SS/RS 396 owned for 22 years
68 SS/RS Clone Drag Car,"The Evil Twin" Best run 10.39 @ 129.87
http://community.webshots.com/user/x77d80
Nick,
the shifter lever reciever piece can be changed out by dissasembling the shifter mechanisim. If you have a factory shifter but want to use the aftermarket linkage, I believe the way to do it would be to remove the stick holder from the OEM shifter assy and replace it on the aftermarket shifter assy. Then you could use all aftermarket parts from the shifter to the tranny.
The other alternative is to drill out the hole in the factory stick for the aftermarket style bolts and add another hole to the bottom of the stick and just bolt it on a brand new aftermarket style mechanisim/linkage.
![]()
You might need to reverse the stick retainer bolts to clear the tunnel(nuts on passenger side if that makes sense) depending on the age of the aftermarket shifter. Looks stock, works better and costs way less. You can still use the factory stick in the factory shifter again later as the mod does not affect the way it retains the stick if you ever want to go back to all factory.
I did this for my car and kept the factory shifter assy in a box in case I ever need it. With the price of the correct shifters and linkage going through the roof lately, it is just about the only way to go anymore. I realy like the way the brand new shifters work as compared to the factory worn out parts. There was a reason so many factory shifters were replaced with aftermarket Hurst shifters many years ago.
-Mark.
[This message has been edited by stingr69 (edited 08-29-2002).]
the shifter lever reciever piece can be changed out by dissasembling the shifter mechanisim. If you have a factory shifter but want to use the aftermarket linkage, I believe the way to do it would be to remove the stick holder from the OEM shifter assy and replace it on the aftermarket shifter assy. Then you could use all aftermarket parts from the shifter to the tranny.
The other alternative is to drill out the hole in the factory stick for the aftermarket style bolts and add another hole to the bottom of the stick and just bolt it on a brand new aftermarket style mechanisim/linkage.
I did this for my car and kept the factory shifter assy in a box in case I ever need it. With the price of the correct shifters and linkage going through the roof lately, it is just about the only way to go anymore. I realy like the way the brand new shifters work as compared to the factory worn out parts. There was a reason so many factory shifters were replaced with aftermarket Hurst shifters many years ago.
-Mark.
[This message has been edited by stingr69 (edited 08-29-2002).]
Nick,
I had the shifter apart on the bench when I was cleaning it up, several of the parts inside had 4 digit numbers on them. At the time I said I should write these down just in case. Then the Shifty Doctor grease came out and the documentation went out the window. Looks like I may get the chance to do it all again anyway. Anyone know what other GM stuff used the slide in shifter handle or now I am guessing they all did.
Mike
I had the shifter apart on the bench when I was cleaning it up, several of the parts inside had 4 digit numbers on them. At the time I said I should write these down just in case. Then the Shifty Doctor grease came out and the documentation went out the window. Looks like I may get the chance to do it all again anyway. Anyone know what other GM stuff used the slide in shifter handle or now I am guessing they all did.
Mike
Mark,
Thanks for the info.I would have never thought of using the factory tower on a new shifter. What I ment was how do you get the shifter handle separated from the shifter? Is drilling the only way? Also If you drill out the 2 fasteners how do you reattach the tower?
Thanks,
Nick
------------------
69 Z/28 X77 D80 83700 original miles,DZ 302, M-21, BU 3:73 Rear End, ZL-2 Ducted Hood, Daytona Yellow, Black Deluxe, Tilt, Factory AM/FM, Console Gauges.
69 Z/28 X33 D80 Fathom Green, Trim 723, Protect o Plate Original 302 MIA M-20, BU 3:73 Rear End,Console Gauges
68 SS/RS 396 owned for 22 years
68 SS/RS Clone Drag Car,"The Evil Twin" Best run 10.39 @ 129.87
http://community.webshots.com/user/x77d80
Thanks for the info.I would have never thought of using the factory tower on a new shifter. What I ment was how do you get the shifter handle separated from the shifter? Is drilling the only way? Also If you drill out the 2 fasteners how do you reattach the tower?
Thanks,
Nick
------------------
69 Z/28 X77 D80 83700 original miles,DZ 302, M-21, BU 3:73 Rear End, ZL-2 Ducted Hood, Daytona Yellow, Black Deluxe, Tilt, Factory AM/FM, Console Gauges.
69 Z/28 X33 D80 Fathom Green, Trim 723, Protect o Plate Original 302 MIA M-20, BU 3:73 Rear End,Console Gauges
68 SS/RS 396 owned for 22 years
68 SS/RS Clone Drag Car,"The Evil Twin" Best run 10.39 @ 129.87
http://community.webshots.com/user/x77d80
Nick,
I took the shifter back apart, there is no numbers on that piece. The way you remove the chrome handle would be to slide two feeler gauges down the wide side next to the handle. It is held in place like electrical wire ends in the plastic connectors in a wiring harness. There are little spring tabs that pop into a hole in the handle when you push it in. You would have to depress these before you can just pull out the handle.
Mike
I took the shifter back apart, there is no numbers on that piece. The way you remove the chrome handle would be to slide two feeler gauges down the wide side next to the handle. It is held in place like electrical wire ends in the plastic connectors in a wiring harness. There are little spring tabs that pop into a hole in the handle when you push it in. You would have to depress these before you can just pull out the handle.
Mike
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
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