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Yeah, last year. The one I received had too long of an actuator arm. When installed, that meant the door would remain open by nearly an inch. I pulled it out and compared it with the original and found the problem. Then called Classic. They pulled one off the shelf. Same dimensions. I said that because a swap would do no good, that I would cut a quarter inch off of mine and run with it. If they wouldn't void my warranty of course. They said "go for it". I did. Wish I could report that it then worked well, but it didn't. It was locked up when fully closed.(door open) The ram wouldn't move until at least a minute went by. I'm not sure what the vacuum threshold was. But by lifting the rod-end while it was being recalcitrant, the unit would suddenly open. After prying UP on the rod end three times, I was able to bend the mechanism to the point of it working perfectly every time with the other actuator.
Do this; Look at the actuator rod after cycling it several times. (assuming that it will eventually operate.) Look for a scuff mark on the side of the rod. The scuff mark means it's rubbing against the side of the exit hole. It shouldn't touch. Push it away from the scuff. It's a touchy-feely thing. Don't get carried away. But at least if you mess up and break something, no one can tell and void your warranty.
And I wish I could blame it on re-pop stuff but my original canister was doing the same thing. I didn't know it until I found the solution for the new one. Hope this helps. Gotta go drop in my engine, right now.

Edit: Curses! Foiled again. Dug into my shipment from Summit that arrived last month. It's AN fittings for my new fuel line(s). A tubing nut is missing. It's on the invoice, they just didn't send it. The fittings can only be installed with the engine removed. (unless I have a 'trunk monkey') I'm stuck until Monday.
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