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I haven't seen a good headliner installation write up on here so I'll do my best.

My headliner is from Legendary and is great quality. First, I laid out in the sun to get out the packaging wrinkles. Then I laid out and marked the centers of the bow sleeves. This is important as you'll see.

Next, reinstall the tack strips in the car. One across the top by the windshield, 3 around the back glass, and one at each sail panel. I reused the originals and do not know if they're reproduced.

Next mark the locations of the headliner bows. I used a small piece of tape. If the bows are put in the wrong holes your headliner will look wonky and you'll have to play around with hole locations after a point that you won't want to start over. I used my original bows.

Next insert all the hardware with hole locations underneath the headliner. Once the headliner is in, you'll be able to find the fasteners with you finger and be able to cut the hole precisely.

I had replacement bows from a roof metal kit, I swiped the new plastic clips from them. You want the clips to slide easily in their slots of the roof support. I did not use lube as some suggest, I did not want a wet spot to show up in my headliner down the road.

The center now is held by a tack strip for lack of better term. You have to bend the teeth down to remove it. The install starts here. I used the dome light screw as a center reference since there is no clip to center on. Keep the bow sleeves taught and push through the teeth. Once you are satisfied it's in good, bend the teeth back up. There is a front and back, the longer part should be toward the front. Insert the rest of the bows in your marked locations. Remember the center mark on the liner? Line it up with the center of the clip. There will be extra material on the bow liners bunching up. Cut the extra material, but be careful not to cut too much. Line up the center of the headliner with the center of the roof and start stretching!
 

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Discussion Starter #1,182
I started from the back and worked toward the front. I began stretching from the center out to the ends. At first I was using binder clamps, but found it made more sense for me to glue as I went along. Taking the binder clamps off to glue really started the stretching process over.

Staples on the sail panel tack strip are 3/16". I had to cut some down. I both glued and stapled it to the strip.

The A Piller and sail areas are the worst because your stretching in 3 dimensions. It will take a hair dryer for me to get some of the wrinkles out.

Oh, it was also helpful to have the pinch weld moldings in place to hold things while the glue set up.

I have it all glued in. I'll install the coat hooks and anything else through the headliner and the hopefully shrink out all the wrinkles. Next task is to install the sail panels.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,185
Looking good, thanks for all your documentation.
Just an FYI- the tack strips are available, however I got mine in a kit With the inner roof Substructure. It also included the headliner bows
Interesting. The bows I had came with the inner roof kit I bought but it didn’t have any tack strips. Maybe that has changed from 6 years ago when I bought that kit?

About the only way to get those wrinkles out is to pull the glue apart and re stretch it. I had to do mine twice to get them out. I did not want to but it was worth it.
Hey Randy! Had any more time on yours yet? I’m really getting the itch. I ended up using a heat gun and was amazed how many of the wrinkles came out. It is very acceptable as you’ll see, at least to me.
 

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I tried to get wrinkles out with the hairdryer....that's the "safe" method but it was clear I wasn't getting enough heat. The other thing working against me has been the weather, it's been low 70's in Michigan this week.

After a lot of video watching and practice on scraps, I pulled out the heat gun. I have a low setting on mine so I used that. Really impressed with the results. Move carefully and don't try to get it all at once, let it cool and keep coming back. My wife can't believe the difference. Took about 2 hours to do, there are a couple small wrinkles left in the worst spots but for me it's very acceptable.
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Next came sail panels which were really easy. Legendary brand again. No modifications, I glued the fabric over the edge, and fit into place. The provide industrial Velcro instead of the clips and that works really great. I installed them, glued the fabric over the tack strip and pinch weld. Installed the molding over the edge and done! Can't stop looking at this car as it comes together, it's still hard to believe I'm getting close to driving on the road.
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I also installed the rear view mirror. All original components reused except the actual mirror.
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Interesting. The bows I had came with the inner roof kit I bought but it didn’t have any tack strips. Maybe that has changed from 6 years ago when I bought that kit?



Hey Randy! Had any more time on yours yet? I’m really getting the itch. I ended up using a heat gun and was amazed how many of the wrinkles came out. It is very acceptable as you’ll see, at least to me.
Matt, It does look good. I did not know a heat gun could do that, I do not have one. I have been working too much to have time to work on mine. I have been wanting to since I am getting close.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,189
Looking great man. I installed my headliner earlier this year so I feel your pain. You get any miles on it?
Thanks Ryan. Yours came out really nice too.

I've driven it in the driveway but no miles yet. It has lots of torque and wants to turn the tires over just letting the clutch out at idle. I can't wait to drive this thing! Soon as I can get some glass and seats in it....
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I’ve been working on carpet and glass.

I installed the back carpet first. I used a heat gun and the sun to smooth out the wrinkles, then fit it to the floor and cut the edges to fit. This is ACC carpet with the mass backing and it fits the contours very well. This is the picture after complete.

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To get to this point, after the carpet was fit and cut, I began gluing from the center of the trans tunnel and working either direction. To locate holes I used an awl to poke through into the hole.

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Then taking a soldering iron and melting away the carpet in the hole.

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This leaves a very nicely defined and finished hole for the fastener.

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Im still working on the front carpet, which is considerably more difficult thanks to the things that have to be cut around on the transmission tunnel. I have a whole day in fitting the front piece, which still needs trimming on the drivers side edge and then glued down final. Here is how I left off yesterday.

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I installed the weatherstrip tracks for the door glass. Goo Gone cleaned up the old leftovers and my homemade buffing kit restored the shine. Lots of debates about this but I used single sided foam tape on the backside to seal against the body.
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Started trying to align the glass. All of which is factory. This will be fun.....
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Tim - The Northwest 1969 Camaro
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I’ve been working on carpet and glass.

I installed the back carpet first. I used a heat gun and the sun to smooth out the wrinkles, then fit it to the floor and cut the edges to fit. This is ACC carpet with the mass backing and it fits the contours very well. This is the picture after complete.

View attachment 264039

To get to this point, after the carpet was fit and cut, I began gluing from the center of the trans tunnel and working either direction. To locate holes I used an awl to poke through into the hole.

View attachment 264040

Then taking a soldering iron and melting away the carpet in the hole.

View attachment 264041

This leaves a very nicely defined and finished hole for the fastener.

View attachment 264042

Im still working on the front carpet, which is considerably more difficult thanks to the things that have to be cut around on the transmission tunnel. I have a whole day in fitting the front piece, which still needs trimming on the drivers side edge and then glued down final. Here is how I left off yesterday.

View attachment 264043
I’ve been working on carpet and glass.

I installed the back carpet first. I used a heat gun and the sun to smooth out the wrinkles, then fit it to the floor and cut the edges to fit. This is ACC carpet with the mass backing and it fits the contours very well. This is the picture after complete.

View attachment 264039

To get to this point, after the carpet was fit and cut, I began gluing from the center of the trans tunnel and working either direction. To locate holes I used an awl to poke through into the hole.

View attachment 264040

Then taking a soldering iron and melting away the carpet in the hole.

View attachment 264041

This leaves a very nicely defined and finished hole for the fastener.

View attachment 264042

Im still working on the front carpet, which is considerably more difficult thanks to the things that have to be cut around on the transmission tunnel. I have a whole day in fitting the front piece, which still needs trimming on the drivers side edge and then glued down final. Here is how I left off yesterday.

View attachment 264043
You really helped me out here. I posted a question several weeks ago about where to trim the carpets around the transition at the rear inner panels and your pictures help alot. My car was mostly disassembled when I received it so I was quite sure what covered up what. I assumed the rear interior quarters would cover a certain amount down low but was sure if I was supposed to cut straight across at the top of the rocker where the pinch weld molding is. Your pictures spell it out pretty clear so thanks.
 

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You really helped me out here. I posted a question several weeks ago about where to trim the carpets around the transition at the rear inner panels and your pictures help alot. My car was mostly disassembled when I received it so I was quite sure what covered up what. I assumed the rear interior quarters would cover a certain amount down low but was sure if I was supposed to cut straight across at the top of the rocker where the pinch weld molding is. Your pictures spell it out pretty clear so thanks.
Hey Tim, I saw your question but didn't answer because I didn't quite know myself not having done it yet at that point. I know up front it tucks under the kick panel and the sill plates. I leave it slightly long and trim as needed. In the back I cut right at the pinch weld like you see, and then leave it just long enough to fold up the quarters. I think it will have to be covered by the rear panels but I'm not sure until I get those ready to install.
 

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I restored the window guides.

This cost $8. Yes, it’s ugly but ugly fabric is cheap and it isn’t seen. The Mrs. and I went to JoAnn fabrics and matched the original material weave and thread style for durability in the remnants section. I think it is some sort of upholstery fabric....Like I said, $8. I think these are $20 a piece to buy repops and we all know how well repops fit.

Anyway, the worst part was getting the old fabric off and cleaning them up. Then I used some goo gone to take off the old glue. I used the old fabric as a template to cut the new.
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Some adhesive on both pieces and stick together. All done.

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