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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was thinking of buying a 69 ss 396, 4spd, 12 bolt rear, but it is missing the original engine and its from L.A. so there is no "X" code. It has the 5500 rpm tach, the correct heater box, 12 bolt 4spd ect. and you guys say its easy to put that stuff in so is there any L.A. documentation to prove it?
 

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Unfortunately, no. Unless you can find the build sheet up above the gas tank on the drivers side, you're really SOL. Alot of the LA built cars had build sheets there, so it might be worth a try. It should have front disk brakes, 28 coil hood springs, big block heater hose location, dual exhaust hanger on frame rail on drivers side, 4 leaf rear springs, blackened out rear tail panel, disk brake proportioning valve, etc etc etc......I went through the same rigamoroll when I bought my 69' 396 clone, so I'm very familiar with the process. A great reference book is "The Definitive 1969 Camaro Z/28-SS396 Fact Book" by Jerry MacNeish. A wealth of information there to help prove or disprove what your car was from the factory. Good luck! KZ

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John D. Smith
69' SS/396 CLONE!
http://www.geocities.com/kz1000ltd/
 

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I would look for 5 leafs and not 4. You might check the back of the tach. The 3 studs that hold the tach in have little baby blue plastic caps pushed over the nuts from the factory. Most times when someone adds a tach they don't put those on. They don't have to be there but it will make you feel better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks alot! It makes a person nervous spending alot of money on a car that just possibly might not be. I will probably take a look at the car this weekend so I'm glad you guys responded so quickly, thanks.
 

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Hey gab, could you post the numbers off the LA '69 SS?

Thx....

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Steve McCorry - Central Ohio Camaro Club
'69 Camaro RS/SS-350 - Daytona Yellow
'95 Camaro Z-28 - Sebring Silver
click here to see my webpage ---> www.mindspring.com/~mccorry (updated 3/10/01)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well I went to look at the 69 today, And it had the 28 coil hood springs, black paint under the peeling paint on the tail panel, the correct heater box, and the radiator core was 23" wide and it had the 5500 rpm tach, and I wrote down the cowl tag info.

ST 69 12437 LOS204056
TR 711 52B
12A E397


The options were; ps, pdb, tach, console with gauges, clock, 396 (non matching), 4spd, 12 bolt, standard interior, and it had power windows! It was supposed to be from California. The floors and trunk were mint, but the front fenders were rusty on the bottom and one quarter panel had rust behind the tire where if you kicked it the end of your foot would probably go through. He wanted $10500 and a person could easily spend another $3500-$4000 on parts, not including labor, is it worth it? Sorry, long letter.
 

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Well...the generic answer is ... it's worth what you'd pay for it.

But in my opinion... it is pushing the limit of what I would pay. The fact that the floors and trunk are good is a selling point.. but the 1/4 rust worries me.

The car does have some neat options...ie - power windows!

Did you happen to write down the VIN?

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Steve McCorry - Central Ohio Camaro Club
'69 Camaro RS/SS-350 - Daytona Yellow
'95 Camaro Z-28 - Sebring Silver
click here to see my webpage ---> www.mindspring.com/~mccorry (updated 3/10/01)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
No, I forgot to write the VIN down, he gave me the carb number (quadracrapper 7027200) and said it was the original one. He also said the quarters were never replaced, which is what I want (a never been messed with car) but then I showed him that one was replaced. (that one didn't have rust) I started to get that sinking let down feeling (when they say its nice and its not, it happens ALOT) that I forgot the VIN, check for blue clips behind the tach, and if it had the bracket for dual exhaust on the frame rail. Sorry for my whining.
 

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Hi gab,

You know, as far as worth goes, keep this in mind.

Say you want to restore the car and fix the rust. Unless you can (and really enjoy) doing bodywork and paint, to fix the front fenders, replace one quarter, and repaint the car to show standards, I would not be surprised at a bill exceeding $3000 (for a real good shop, probably $5000 including professional full repaint). This does not count the nickel and dime stuff (more like $100 here, $100 there). I'm sure there are people on this list that can attest to the money-pit body work scenerio.

My point being, IMHO, I would rather spend $13,000 - $15,000 on a car with an excellent body then go through the bodywork nightmare (again, unless you enjoy it). Even if you can chew him down to $8000, you will end up paying the same price in the end (minus the 6 months of cutting, cutting, more cutting, welding, and painting). I know, alot of us enjoy that kind of thing (yes, including me). But it's when that estimated 6 months turns into three years is when you start wondering what you got yourself into.

I hope I didn't scare you, I just feel that there are nicer cars out there for just alittle bit more money. Or if you're lucky, the same money.

Gee, I ges my answere to your question would be - No.

Good Luck,

Keith
'69 RS/SS 502
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It has now showed up on E-Bay and the bidding is up to $4350. It's the red one with the crusty roof from Minnesota. If any one wants a real description, just ask.
 

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I just checked out the car on E-bay after you mentioned the owner had put it up for bid. It is at $10,000 as I post this. Anyone else who wants to check it out, here it is
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=571007984

I would have to agree with awsm502, you may be better off looking for something with little or no body work required unless you enjoy that type of work. With patience a really nice car can still be had for $15,000. As the weather gets better though prices tend to get higher.
 

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After a little more e-bay browsing I came across this car at right about $15,000. It's not a matching numbers car, but it sure looks sweet.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=569633360

Before I'd give the other guy 10K and then still spend who knows how much more to fix it up right, I'd buy this car. If I wasn't building a new house right now I'd have to seriously think about this one. The white with the SS wheels looks awful sharp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yes, thanks I did see the white 69 on e-bay, the bidding is at $15,XXX and says the reserve is not met. It has some funny things with it though, the heater hoses are hooked up funny (will it even heat?) and it has the rosewood dash and deluxe door panels but standard seats. What would it take to buy, $16500-$18000? Seems like alot of money for something I would have to fix things and spend more money on. Am I too pickey?
 

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Yeah, I noticed just after I had posted that the reserve had not been met. IMO the car is worth maybe 15K, but as is typical of a lot of e-bay cars, it will probably get more than that. Personally I wouldn't buy a car without being able to look it over really well, although when you see some of these really sharp cars it can be tempting.

I hadn't even noticed the deluxe door panels with the standard seats, or the heater hoses. I don't think you are being overly picky either. When someone is prepared to spend a significant amount of money they should be satisfied with their purchase. The things you have mentioned about the white SS are a good reason why it is important to take a friend or two along when looking at prospective purchases. They can help make an objective choice, and more sets of eyes always see more things.

I've read on this board numerous times, and I must agree, that a car is worth what it worth to the individual more than anything, not necessarily what it is worth to everyone else. With some patience and persistence you will find a nice car you can be happy with and hopefully enjoy for years to come. Good luck!
 
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