I have the orig radiator from my 69z. Doesn’t leak but looks ugly. Plus lot waxy substance inside it. May need re cored. Possible, just cleaned. Would prefer new core so find etc look good. Tanks need to be stripped, one shroud bracket fell off.
Who is considered the go to guy?
thx
ps. Also need power brake booster re coated etc.
I was going to get mine re-cored at a place in Rock Hill, ended up being the same money to buy a new Cold Case radiator, so that's what I did.
If I was doing a Z restoration I can understand wanting to keep the original.
I did just buy a cold case rad. Real nice, so far. Looks great.
I will re do the orig one and leave it in the box. I have the redone subframe with fresh 302 and muncie in it. Just sitting in the corner. Some day when I have car painted I will roll factory stuff back under car. I was never really into numbers. Always cared about what parts but not what came originally. I have it all, from smog to flywheel. So feel obligated to keep it all for eventual return. Or at least some can.
An older radiator shop should be able in overhauling the OE radiator.
The side panels are soldered onto the tanks. Normal test pressure is 50 PSIG. Might do the heater core also
Both tanks have codes that match the application (z/28 in this case). The pass side tank has a month code that should pre-date the build date. Both are very important to numbers match Z owners and need to be retained! Also the top and bottom support bars are very noticeable if they are not retained with the new core.
Most new cores have new support bars already installed and most local radiator shops don't mess with swapping the support bars, so you are left with a radiator that is worth significantly less then what you started with.
Also the tag soldered on the pass tank shows the part number and stamped number that needs to be retained. read about radiators here on CRG: CRG Research Report - 1967-69 Cooling Systems
Thx good to know on top and bottom supports. I think mine is original but can’t tell u on the supports. The tanks have the correct numbers and letters.
Original support bars are shown in the CRG report I linked (1st pair of pics). Compare yours
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