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Discussion Starter #1
Have a 383 (525 hp), 12 bolt Posi with 4:11’s.
It’s sitting there waiting to be put in. I was debating on Trans and it’s relation to 4:11s.
Because of the low 1st gear, is the 4:11 too much or OK?

I’m going carbureted, so I think I wouldn’t need the 4160E because of the electronics or could I?

So, are the 4:11s ok in either trans and which trans should I use.

Thank you!!
 

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You could keep the 4l60e and just get a controller. For those trans, anywhere from a 3:42-3.73 work well depending on your rear tire diameter.
 

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Toss up. Really low first gear in the 4L60E. I have one in a 68 El Camino with a 3.31 rear gear. Works perfect for my combo, which is a 355 with 10:1 compression and a Crane roller cam that is designed for low end torque, not high rpm.

I don't think you will like it behind 4.11 or 4.10 gears.

Built 7004R are getting expensive. When shopping for a trans, it was cheaper for me to spend the extra money for a stand alone controller and TPS for the carb ($660 for both) and go with the 4L60E. You will also have to pay additional to shorten the driveshaft. Cost me $60. I was able to use my existing cross member by drilling new holes in the frame to bolt it to. Don't know if that will work on a Camaro. If you want to use your original cable operated speedo, you will also need a box that converts the electrical signal to mechanical rotation to drive the speedo cable. Another $300. So, all together, that was an additional $1,020.00 in peripherals to turn the 4L60E. But, those transmissions are dirt cheap and plentiful. I use my El Camino to tow my car hauler, and a really well built up 7004R was going to be pushing $2500 to $3k. I got a 6 month old remanufactured (Goodwrench) trans out of a Suburban with the two package for $300.

The great thing about the electronic controls is I can program the firmness of the shifts, and program when I want the torque converter to lock up (52 mph for me). I can also program speedo output determined by my rear gear and tire size. When I changed rears and then tire sizes, it takes about two minutes to reprogram. My stock speedo is dead on at the three speeds I have had it checked by radar (40 50 70).

But, I know there are some guys that abhor the extra low first gear in the 4L60E. If I had a 4.10 screw in the back, I would likely be one of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Lynn. Sounds like the 4160E is the way to go.
I also have a 69 Mustang that has an AOD, it has a constant pressure valve body that deletes the TV cable pressure adjustment . I do have a Lokar cable up to the carb, which is set 1/8” from tension and that’s it.
I’ve been looking for something similar for a 700R4, but no luck?
Any suggestions?
 

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I have no experience installing a 700R4.
When I was deciding the way to go, I kept finding posts related to the lock up converter, which requires some kind of electrical input. Several indicated that they just gave up trying to engage it. I found one where he had a manual switch to lock up the converter; but if he forgot, it stayed locked up all the way until he came to a stop and would kill the engine. One guy fixed that issue by installing a switch that did some kind of over ride when he hit the brakes. Just seemed like a hassle to me, so I went straight to the 4L60E, which is basically the same trans, but with electronic controls. I know I have no regrets.

But, if you find a few guys with the 700R4, make sure you ask how they dealt with the lock up converter. It is good for 1 - 2 mpg on the highway, so I think it is foolish to have that feature and not use it.

If you find guys with a 200R4, ask what they paid for it, then look around and see if you can get one for the same $$ today. At 525 hp, I wouldn't trust one of the ones advertised as
"stage 2" which run about $2k these days. Most of the 200R4s were behind really weak motors, and have to be modified to stand up to your motor. Even a 4L60e might be borderline.

But then, you have to understand human nature. Once we make a decision, it is really hard for us to admit there might have been a better way. We tend to "defend" our decision, because in our own minds, it makes us feel better that we made the "right" one. Hard to be objective once you have taken the plunge, regardless of what your choice was. Of course, that doesn't apply to me; just everyone else!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Lynn, I’ve been shopping around for a controller and TPS, which in my opinion is a must buy that adds to a hefty price to the trans. Prices of each are up and down, don’t really know which one to choose.
In your application, what MFG did you use?
Thank you
 

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It is very somple to turn the Lock Up Convertor off with a simple brake switch (acutally a Cruise Control sitch with the Lockup wire to the normally closec terminal. Hit the brake opens the contact and out of lock up.

Check with Bowtire Overdrives and Shiftworks when looking at 700R4s.

4L60E I would use the TCI stand alone control.
 

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I used a tci controller. I think they can still be had for under $600.

I also used a tci remote tps for carb. I am pretty sure I paid less then $70, but last I looked they are double or triple that now.
 

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You will have more money invested in a 4L60E, but the ability to tune it to your liking will be so much greater than a mechaincal 700R4..

As for rear gears, 4.10's are pretty deep for a trans with a very low 1st gear, unless you plan to spin it over 7K or have a very tall tire. There was also an aftermarket reduced gear set available which would make a 4.10 very desirable, but I haven't looked into them in a long while.

A 4L80E has a better gear spread, but will be heavier, cost significantly more and be a lot tighter of a fit in the trans tunnel.
 

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I am just now completing this swap.... Just waiting on my shortened drive shaft. I went with 3.55 and a posi unit. I ditched a powerglide with 2.55 (i think) with no posi.
EFI 327 (330 hp).
 

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I am just now completing this swap.... Just waiting on my shortened drive shaft. I went with 3.55 and a posi unit. I ditched a powerglide with 2.55 (i think) with no posi.
EFI 327 (330 hp).
I did not mention I went with a 700R4.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I too have the Dakota Digital UHX
I’m on a budget build. So I’m liking for a reasonable priced controller, all seem costly.
 
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