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Discussion Starter #1
Can someone give me some info on the large bearing/ small bearing difference on a 9" rear ie. can they be changed or swapped for one another. Also has anyone ever used the early bronco rear end and if so how was the length. I heard they have a 5 on 5.5 bolt circle hub...what is the satandard chevy bolt circle?
 

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Are you referring to the carrier bearings or the axle bearings?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The axle bearings. I was looking into getting a pair of bronco axles since they are a good length for a 68 camaro(so I've heard) and they are of the "large bearing" type. The housing I have is from a late 70's Lincoln. I am going to cut and shorten it to accept the axles, but I don't know if i can use the large bearings or if I can even change them?
 

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The Lincoln should also have the large bearings. Why not just use the Bronco housing with the axles? The Lincoln housing is a pain to use because it has the long tapered center and flattened tubes that are larger than the standard 3 inches. It also has a bunch of brackets that will have to be cut off. In my opinion it is junk. The Bronco housing has the small round center with round 3 inch tubes. This will make a much better looking rear end and will be a lot easier to put spring mounts on. I think the Bronco rear end is 58 inches wide, but I'm not sure (early Camaro is 60 inches). You also need to be aware that the pinion in a Chevy rear end is offset 1/2 inch off center. That means that the right side (passenger) is 1 inch shorter than the left (driver) side from the end to the center of the pinion. Whatever rear end you use must have the same offset. The Chevy car bolt pattern is 5 on 4 3/4.

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'69 RS/SS396 pro street
427/4spd/9"
Byars Performance
High Performance Drive Train Parts And Service
www.lubedealer.com/biggearhead

[This message has been edited by big gear head (edited 09-11-2002).]
 

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biggearhead, i am installing a 70 bronco 9 inch in my 68, it is almost exact width, shorter if anything, anyway i had axles and drums redrilled for bolt pattern and new bearing installed, now will i need to shorten a side as you said chevy;s were offset a bit??? also pinion angle?? 4 degrees up or down for the pinion angle?? also when welding my camaro spring perches on should i do spot welds until completely welded or tack it on then weld one complete side in one pass?? thanks for the help
Jake
 

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I think welding in one pass would be stronger. I know it probably would cause more warpage, but tacking all the way would probably cause porosity in the welds and less penetration. Don't forget to weld around the ends about 3/8 inch to help prevent cracks. You need to check the angle of the crankshaft and turn the pinion down about 3 or 4 degrees from the crankshaft angle. Here is some good information on pinion angles http://www.iedls.com/ptsetup.html Have you measured from the pinion center to each end to see if the pinion is offset? Ford offset their pinion, some more than others. I have seen more than 4 inches of offset on some Fords and others were exactly 1/2 inch, like Chevy. Remember that the driver's side should be 1 inch longer than the other. If it isn't then the drive shaft will not fit in the drive shaft tunnel.

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'69 RS/SS396 pro street
427/4spd/9"
Byars Performance
High Performance Drive Train Parts And Service
www.lubedealer.com/biggearhead

[This message has been edited by big gear head (edited 09-11-2002).]
 

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thanks biggearhead, as far as checking crank angle cani check front of block or back end of trannt with gauge which way is best and easiest, i will check offset today and let you know, also weldin them in one pass will i have any vibration?? should i have them straightened after thanks for all you help
Jake
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Unfortunatly, I do not have a bronco housing...just access to buy a pair of bronco axles which could be put into the lincoln housing if and when it is shortened. I am bummed this is not a good housing to use. I thought the Lincoln housing were thicker/stronger and desirable with the disc brake set up. It is exactly as you describe though. Is this housing usable at all? I live in the styx(and rust belt) and parts like this are hard to find.
 

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Jake,
I usually check the angle off of the ballancer on the fromt of the crank. It is usually easier to get to and easier to transfer the angle to the rear end since you are measuring them both virtically.

J Early,
I cut the Lincoln housings off very close to the center and weld flat pieces of metal on the ends. Then I weld legs on them and use them for storing complete chunks to keep them clean. That is the only thing I have found them to be good for. A truck housing would be better to narrow. They have round axle tubes, but they are about 3 1/4 diameter. This means you will have to trim most brackets that you use on them. The axle tubes are thicker though, so they are stronger. Almost all of the truck housings have the large axle bearings and there are much less brackets to cut off. I used the Lincoln disc brakes on my Camaro with truck housing ends welded to a '64 Galaxy housing and a nodular case and 4.11 gears from a truck with a Detroit Locker and Daytona pinion housing from a Mustang and axles from a Mercury. I broke one of the axles so I now have Moser axles in it.

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'69 RS/SS396 pro street
427/4spd/9"
Byars Performance
High Performance Drive Train Parts And Service
www.lubedealer.com/biggearhead

[This message has been edited by big gear head (edited 09-12-2002).]

[This message has been edited by big gear head (edited 09-13-2002).]
 

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There are some people running or getting ready to run the Lincoln rear end on this board. I'm one of them. I bought a complete rear then bought brand new rotors, remanufactured calipers, cut off all the mounting brackets myself and then started hearing about problems with the brakes being too large etc.

I figure to h#ll with it, I may as well finish it up and run it at this point. If it doesn't work for my application then maybe I can sell it off to someone that can use it.

As for the flattened/tapered axle tubes, Moser ( www.moserengineering.com )told me it would be no problem to shorten it with those tubes, but if I wanted they could completely replace the tubes with new 1/4" tubes (which would be round) I don't remember exactly what they cost$100-$150??

If I had known all the "ins and outs" before I bought the rear end, I may have steered away from it. But I was going on some information relating to street rods that these rear ends were desireable (more like "it will work if you really try" for our cars). That coupled with the fact that we don't have 9" rears falling out of trees around here helped make my decision. I've spent the money and I'm nearly done with it now so we'll see what happens....

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Bret Copsey
'68 Camaro base coupe
'92 Caprice Wagon
'99 Venture Van
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Big Gear Head,
Your words are inspiring to say the least (ha!) I could understand why a guy like you who does these would not mess with the lincoln when there are easier rears (9")to modify in about every other car. For the one time effort I my have to go forth with this but I will look aroung for what else is available on your recommendation. I like your thoughts of welding on legs... but I don't know if my mufflers would clear it!
 

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J,
You were correct about the Lincoln housing being strong, but they are a little more complicated to work with. If you want to use it, there is nothing wrong with that. Be sure you have the ends welded back on with a housing fixture installed in it.

One more thing, be sure the brakes will clear your wheels. Mine only clear by 1/8 inch.

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'69 RS/SS396 pro street
427/4spd/9"
Byars Performance
High Performance Drive Train Parts And Service
www.lubedealer.com/biggearhead

[This message has been edited by big gear head (edited 09-13-2002).]
 
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