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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have replaced everything clutch related and still have no clutch. Start the car push the clutch it won`t go into gear. Does anyone have any suggestions ?
 

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Why did you replace these parts? What parts did you replace ? What when you try to put it in gear?
I bought the car it was not running, got it running and when you went to take off the clutch was chattering, vibrating. When i tore it apart the the slave cylinder was leaking, clutch was gone and the flywheel had hot spots. Bought a kit on Ebay flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and slave cylinder. Got it all back together bled out, fired it up, push the clutch in it wouldn`t go in gear. Since then I`ve replaced the clutch master cylinder and the clutch fork still won`t go in gear. This has the reverse clutch system so the throw out bearing pulls on the pressure plate and the clutch fork had a lot of play before it contacts the throw out bearing so I thought maybe the Ebay flywheel might be to thick so I took the original fly wheel and had it machined he only took off 10ths got it back together still won`t go in gear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Does it grind trying to engage it, or it just won’t? Can you put it in gear with the engine off? Is it possI let the clutch disc is installed 180 out?
If you try to force it in gear it will start to stall the engine. Yes it will go in gear with the engine off. How do you get a clutch 180 out, never heard of that.
 

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LT1 car? These had a T56 right? Did you buy a clutch for an LS1 car with T56. Not the same
 

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taking a stab….your clutch slave cylinder may not be disengaging the clutch fully off the flywheel. You stated the clutch fork has a lot of play in it…..pretty sure there’s supposed to be no play.
 

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taking a stab….your clutch slave cylinder may not be disengaging the clutch fully off the flywheel. You stated the clutch fork has a lot of play in it…..pretty sure there’s supposed to be no play.
It's hydraulic right? Why would you have a throwout bearing and/or clutch fork?
 

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Gen 2 LT1 cars have a clutch fork and T.O. bearing but are "pull" clutches, not "push".

The slave cyl mounts to DS bellhousing and pushes the fork which pulls the T.O. bearing from under the PP diaphragm to disengage the clutch.

OP

The most likely cause is you still have air in the hydraulics. The MC/Slave come as a sealed unit but you can buy them separate but that requires tedious bleeding which when done with MC & slave installed can be problem.

I always bench bleed the system and install it as a sealed unit because the MC installed at the angle it is typically will trap air in MC if not pre-bleed.

You can try bleeding system installed by letting the slave hang and you pump the slave piston by hand in short strokes while someone up top watches reservoir (MC) for bubbles and refills

This assumes you don't have FU hydraulics and or a cheap no name clutch (ebay??)

Sometimes the fork itself is bent but rare. Does it clip in to the ball stud on trans face correctly. It should be about flush with the bell housing opening (pic)

Do you still have the plastic cap on end of slave piston? (you need it) or clutch won't disengage which is the issue you have

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