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before replacing the motor(just kidding) do some diagnostics...pull a plug wire...put an old plug in it, rest it on the intake or other metal surface, and have someone crank the motor...see if there is spark or not...report back, and we can go from there...
 

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hey everett, is this a mass air or speed density... bad maf or map can cause a rich condition...wet pluge arent usually due to a timing chain, but possible...when a chain jumps, the car will usually turn over faster than normal, due to loss of compression...i`ve also seen cars that wont run after they`ve been jumpstarted, because the voltage spike changes values in the computer learn area of the prom...disconnect the batt for 1 minute to reset values to predetermined table...a plugged cat would have to be plugged pretty solid to make the car not run, but would make the plugs wet, because exhaust gasses wont get out of the engine...you can drop the y pipe to see if the cat is the culprit, but dont run too long if it starts...you could bend valves from running just at manifolds...
 

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i`d like to hear what it turns out top be, as these problems help techs diagnose difficult problems in the future...i only mentioned the map/maf because i had a caravan once that would run for one hour straight, and then just quit...it wouldnt start back up until it cooled for 20 minutes...there was a bad wire in the map harness...when the engine bay temp rose, resistance in the sensor wire went up, changing the map value, and leaning the car out...it wouldnt start affter that, until wire resistance came back down, and the comp got a good reading...i unplugged the map, and the car started right up with a mil light on to tell me that i forgot to plug the sensor back in...(i found the problem purely by chance!!!)i didnt know if the comp in the camaro would do the same thing...and everett is right...check compression before ripping into the engine...it`ll cost more time, but alot less money usually...
 

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if its a leaky inj, or fpr, the fuel pressure guage will peak when you turn on the key, and then drop...if everything`s good, it should hold pressure at the rail indefinately...i had a bad fpr diaphram on a 351w ford that pushed fuel up the vacuum supply line into the intake plenum, and choked the car right out...if you pull the line off the fpr and turn on the key, you`ll see immediately if thats the prob..t-chain play would have to be a lot more than half inch to jump time, although tis not a bad idea to change at your mileage...i`d hate to say ecm, but you`re running out of things to check,change...if you could get ahold of a scanner, you could get a data stream from the computer if its good...(you did check all the ecm fuses right???)if the fuses for the ecm are bad, you wont run...if the ses light didnt flash when you jumped out the aldl, that would have me puzzled...did you disconnect the batt to clear the comp???just checking...also try unplugging the cam sensor...sometimes a sensor can go bad, and the car wont go into limp mode because the comp cant tell that the sensor is bad...if you unplug the sensor, the computer will see that, and revert to a baseline that it knows will work even if not optimally...reguardless, there is too much fuel getting into the car, and there is only so many things that can make that happen...if i was there to test things, i`m positive i could make it run through diagnostics, but without being there, its sometimes really difficult and frustrating...i hope you get it soon...maybe everett has some more input...thats a smart guy...
 

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the 25 dollar code reader probably isnt gonna do you much good if you cant ground the aldl conn out and get the light to flash...bummer, but i really think the comp went tits up...corse, i dont want you to spend your hard earned cake on my hunch, but not much else i can think of...did you check an injector for pulse???need a noid lite...they`re probably as much as the code reader you speak of, but money better spent for you at this time imo...
 

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check the inj wires with a noid lite...see if you get a soft glow out of the lite...it shouldnt glow at all until you`re turning the car over...then you should get a "flash while turning over...the comp controlls a ground to the injs,so you should have power to them all, but no ground until the motor is spinning...if you have a glow, then you have a ground that shouldnt be there...that could be a comp prob, or a shorted wire, but by the ses lite thing you have going on, i`d say comp...the fpr will also bleed off, but you would only see that in 1 cyl...i believe the injectors on you8r car batch fire, so if all the plugs are wet, i`d suspect the inj`s being the leak...DO NOT check for injector pulse with an analog multimeter...you could cook the comp if it isnt already...it needs to be done with dvom hooked up correctly, led penlite tester, or noidlite...last being the cheapest...you`re gettin there bro...
 

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the noid lite suggestion was not to test the inj`s, but the wiring to them...you shouldnt have pressure loss at the rail as far as i know...the fuel is going somewhere...and it seems to be finding its way into the motor...lol...highly unlikely that all 6 inj`s are leaking at once...hey everett, does this thing have a dis module???without looking at it, i dont know, but that would make the problem occur...unfortunately, i work on such a vast variety of cars, i cant tell what the hell is used on what yr car anymore...lol...i know it when i see it kinda thing...
 

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crank sensor plugs right into the dis via a 2 wire plug...yellow and brown wires if memory serves, and tells it when to fire the coils...i`m pretty sure it also grabs a cam angle signal and refers it to the comp...the dis houses several quad drivers, one of which (i believe)is for the injectors...could be wrong though...just grasping now...lol...the dis is the module directly under the coil packs...they bolt down to it...
 
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