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'94 Camaro 3.4L Cranks but No Start

44910 Views 45 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Spoonyg
Hello, I bought my Camaro new in 1994 and have had very good luck with it until this past Sunday. My son backed it out of the driveway and when he put it in drive, it quit running and I haven't been able to start it since. The first thing I did was to check the oil and it smelled strongly of gasoline. The engine turns over, and sounds like it wants to start but won't.

I have replaced the following items with new parts: Spark plugs, SP cables, Ign. coils (all 3), O2 sensors (the 2 on the exh. manifolds), air filter, fuel filter, and fuel pump. I have also changed the oil and the oil filter.

I'm kind of stuck now on how to proceed, (my limited imagination is at an end at the moment) whats the next step, shy of towing it to a real mechanic. Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Brad
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DIS = Digital ignition system used to generate the spark voltage to the coils. Input is gotten from the ECM via the crankshaft/camshaft sensor.

You would have to read the manual to find the module, usually along with the coils.

But at one post, you have spark.
crank sensor plugs right into the dis via a 2 wire plug...yellow and brown wires if memory serves, and tells it when to fire the coils...i`m pretty sure it also grabs a cam angle signal and refers it to the comp...the dis houses several quad drivers, one of which (i believe)is for the injectors...could be wrong though...just grasping dis is the module directly under the coil packs...they bolt down to it...

I'm not bringing up an old post just for the heck of it, I just hate leaving things unfinished.

I finally had this car towed to a mechanic (about 2 months ago). And they were able to fix it. Yippee! I picked it up this afternoon. It turned out to be the ignition module was bad and caused miss firing (I wish I would have changed it out when I replaced the ign. coils at the beginning). Anyhow, the Camaro runs like new, it should after everything that was replaced on it.

Thank you to all who helped out.
the dreaded dis module strikes again!!!lol...well, glad to see you`re back on the road...congrats...
The connector for the TPS can be back probed if you use paper clips to extend the probes. Just remember, what ever route you take to measure, don't let the two leads touch each other. Check the attachment of the TPS sensor, if there are slotted holes, then its adjustable, loosen the screws and rotate. If it is not, you may have to bend the tab. The ECM will tell you if the TPS voltage is set too high or low.

ECM in the diagnostic mode should flash out code 12, if it is an OBD I.

The ECM without the prom is called a controller, the protector for the prom. On later models, starting with 1990(?), the prom is soldered into place. One has to remove the cover and see, it might be installed into a socket rather than soldered. You want to get the SAME part number of controller as OE installed. You have to transfer the prom. Do not change the prom on a metal surface nor on a carpet. Use a piece of wood and touch both metal chassis together along with yourself. Remember static electricity? I would give the chassis to an electronic friend and watch him do it.
On the 94 Camaros you can't read codes by grounding and flushing the aldl connector that ended in 92 as did the removable prom in the ecm...from personal experience.
Problem solved in my case... 1995 3.4L would start every morning with no problem... Good strong idle, etc.. Once engine got up to operating temperature, it would idle fine, but as soon as I accelerated, it would stall.. If I was in a drive scenario from the cold start, I could literaly be driving down the highway and it would stop and not start... A Clear Flood start would eventually get me going just enough to get off the highway... Tried all the fixes everyone else has recommended... IAC, Temperature Control Sensor, New Coil Pack and Ignition Module.. As everyone else, I spent a lot of time and money.. My goal was to put in a lower operating temperature thermostat to keep the engine cooler.. (Since it runs so good cold).. Upon removing the MAF to get to the thermostat, I was really blown away as to how much crud was behind it. I mean a lot.. Looks like never before cleaned... Now mind you I had already used the MAF spray to clean the front side... The MAF spray did a credible job cleaning the back side, but there was so much, I eventually hade to use a wet towel and scraper to get if all off...Also, I noticed that the crud extended all the way up into the chamber where the PCV sits.. So I cleaned all of that out, put the thermostat back in and went to start the car, not expecting anything, but to my surprise, after about a minute, my engine idle dropped from about 1000 rpms down to around 750.. I was a little surprised, then I noticed that upon acceleration, the engine no longer hesitated... Still afraid to take her on the street, I drove around the corner several times and shes breathing easy, running like a racehorse... She's back on the road again... This solved it for me... Hopes this helps...
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