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Discussion Starter #1
I have good fuel pressure and fire. All it will do is crank. It acts like it is flooded. I got it to start with the gas pedal all the way down, as soon as I let off it died, will not start again.
 

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How much fuel pressure do you have? Does the system hold pressure after you turn off the key? Have you checked for trouble codes?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I changeed the TPS
Got 41 psi it holds for awhile.
Had a guy come check the codes and he could not communiate with the computer. So no codes. <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 71 RAT:
How much fuel pressure do you have? Does the system hold pressure after you turn off the key? Have you checked for trouble codes?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
 

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I would have someone with a scan tool re-check for codes and data. If it still won't communicate, start checking fuses. Does the check engine light work?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes the check engine light is on when I try to start it. <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 71 RAT:
I would have someone with a scan tool re-check for codes and data. If it still won't communicate, start checking fuses. Does the check engine light work?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
 

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Yes, do get a second opinion on the computer not communicating. The check engine lite coming on is a good sign.

You by any chance don't have one of those high performance chips that go inline with the PCM connectors? I've seen those take a dump and cause no starts. If your answer is yes, take it out of the system and plug the factory connector straight to the computer.

Did you check for spark at the coil or at the plugs? Check it at the plugs if you didn't.

Also use the long screw driver to the ear trick to listen for injectors clicking while someone cranks the engine over. If you hear them click that means the computer is atleast trying.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by msb:
Yes, do get a second opinion on the computer not communicating. The check engine lite coming on is a good sign.

You by any chance don't have one of those high performance chips that go inline with the PCM connectors? I've seen those take a dump and cause no starts. If your answer is yes, take it out of the system and plug the factory connector straight to the computer.

Did you check for spark at the coil or at the plugs? Check it at the plugs if you didn't.

Also use the long screw driver to the ear trick to listen for injectors clicking while someone cranks the engine over. If you hear them click that means the computer is atleast trying.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
I don't know about the chip. However i got another guage to check the fuel pressure. It went up to 41 and went back down real fast. I pinched off the return and it still did it. I checked the injectors and could hear them all.
Yes I checked spark at the coil and the plugs and have it at both places.
I am thinking possibly fuel regulator or leaking injector. What does any body else think?
Thanks for all the replies.
 

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Pull the vac line off the regulator. If any fuel comes out it's bad. A gusher here would cause your problem, but even if it's just wet it needs replacing.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by msb:
Pull the vac line off the regulator. If any fuel comes out it's bad. A gusher here would cause your problem, but even if it's just wet it needs replacing.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
I checked and nothing comes out the vacuum line plus it don't look at all wet.
 

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Have you by any chance done anything with your fuel cap. The other thing that I'm thinking is the pulsator leaking at the fuel pump or the fuel pump is starting to go bad. Might also want to check the lines going to the fuel vapor relief valve and the fuel tank vent valve located at l/h forward side of the fuel tank.


Hope this helps!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Have not done anything with the cap. Will look at the things you suggest. One other thing, after I check the pressure at the rail....it bleeds down. I checked the gas cap and there is still alot of pressure there when I open it. Is This normal if I am loosing pressure up front? <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by trickster:
Have you by any chance done anything with your fuel cap. The other thing that I'm thinking is the pulsator leaking at the fuel pump or the fuel pump is starting to go bad. Might also want to check the lines going to the fuel vapor relief valve and the fuel tank vent valve located at l/h forward side of the fuel tank.


Hope this helps!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Here is alittle history of the problem.
Car had no power and ran bad.
Changed plugs and it got alot better.
Heard rattling under car, the cat was in pieces. Got all of the stuff out and the car ran even better.
Went out to start car..it ran but when came back out it was dead. It has not started since.
Changed the fuel filter..it was almost plugged up totally.
Car still would not start.
Drained all the gas out.put new in, still no start.
Used that gas in garden tiller and the tiller would not start. Funny I thought maybe bad gas.
Put on a new TP sensor and still nothing. I have posted the things on the fuel pressure, and no codes.
I don't understand why all of a sudden it will not start.
Thanks for all the replies!
 

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After reading your last post, It sounds like one or two things and I don't think you are going to be exactly thrilled with them. One is the pulsator leaking that I mentioned in my last post. The second one is the sock on the fuel pump being totally clogged up with debris inside the tank. To correct these problems you will have to pull the fuel tank. That is a fun job in itself, I have had to do it three times myself. You also mentioned in your next to last post about pressure build up in your tank after testing your fuel pressure. you will have some pressure in your tank. What you are reading in the fuel rail is the fluid pressure in the lines created by the operation of the fuel pump. Also, are you getting the smell of raw gas in your engine compartment or anywhere else around your car?

The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yes, i get raw gas at the engine, plus i have gain alittle in the oil to. When I did the test to here the injector, i heard more than a click, i could hear the flow of gas through there.The smell is like a flooded engine. Do you think an injector could be sticking open? <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by trickster:
After reading your last post, It sounds like one or two things and I don't think you are going to be exactly thrilled with them. One is the pulsator leaking that I mentioned in my last post. The second one is the sock on the fuel pump being totally clogged up with debris inside the tank. To correct these problems you will have to pull the fuel tank. That is a fun job in itself, I have had to do it three times myself. You also mentioned in your next to last post about pressure build up in your tank after testing your fuel pressure. you will have some pressure in your tank. What you are reading in the fuel rail is the fluid pressure in the lines created by the operation of the fuel pump. Also, are you getting the smell of raw gas in your engine compartment or anywhere else around your car?

The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
 

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After hearing that, I would have to say that is extremely likely the case. If an injector is sticking open, you will get a loss of fuel pressure once the fuel pump shuts off. When the injectors are working properly you will hear continuous clicking as they cycle. Went through the service manual troubleshooting tree after reading all the posts and it points to one or more of your injectors leaking. Just to be on the safe side, check your oil and see if it smells like gas. I mention this because this because you mentioned in your last post that you had gained a little in the oil. If the oil smells like gas, change it.


The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I checked the oil again, it smells like gas real, real bad. I have gained 1" over the full mark. Thanks for all your research. Should I now take the injectors out and get them checked? <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by trickster:
After hearing that, I would have to say that is extremely likely the case. If an injector is sticking open, you will get a loss of fuel pressure once the fuel pump shuts off. When the injectors are working properly you will hear continuous clicking as they cycle. Went through the service manual troubleshooting tree after reading all the posts and it points to one or more of your injectors leaking. Just to be on the safe side, check your oil and see if it smells like gas. I mention this because this because you mentioned in your last post that you had gained a little in the oil. If the oil smells like gas, change it.


The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
 

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Don't rule out the regulator. If an injector is stuck wide open, the car should still run on the other cylinders, although I have seen it both ways. Sometimes with a bad regulator, you'll even have fuel in the intake snorkel. Either way, your on the right track, injector or regulator. If you can hear the other injectors clicking, but one makes no sound, you've found the bad injector. Also try unplugging that injector, hold the gas pedal to the floor and see if the car will start. Sometimes the pcm will fail and ground(turn on) an injector all the time.
 
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