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Discussion Starter #1
Newby here from Tennessee. I have a 99 3800 V6. My problem is intermittent. The engine cranks over, and almost starts, but then won't start. It acts just like a no fuel issue but I have 47 psi fuel pressure. It will not start w/ carb cleaner into the intake. I replaced the ignition module under the coils and it started and ran fine...for about 5 min. It has done this with the old module, too. There are no codes. At one point, I got it started but only while pumping the throttle. Can someone please give me some direction?
 

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You may want to check the timing chain assembly. If it has high miles and a nylon camshaft gear, they tend to wear out and skip a tooth or more. I did one on a '88 v-6, and it was trashed. If it was the crankshaft positioner sensor, you would have a code flashing for sure. You may want to pull the codes again and see if any come up. Good luck.

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On the engine you replaced the timing chain on, did it run fine occasionally?
No, when the timing chain went, it didn't run. I was trying to remember, because I haven't owned the car for sometime. Before the cam gear/ chain issue, I was experiencing an intermittent problem. The car would start up, run fine for a while, but then would die. It would happen at the most inconvenient times, of course. Got the car to my shop and traced it down to the crank sensor. It was external as well, so pretty easy job to replace it. You may also want to check the injectors and make sure they are not leaking. Make sure you have enough fuel, pull the plugs they might be fouled. Re-check the fuel pressure, with the key on, not while cranking the engine. Get the intake air flow system back together, all the way to the throtle body, connect everything. The ECM will pick up the bad connections and the engine won't run right. Once the key is on and there is sufficient fuel pressure in the system, there is correct ignition, etc, there should be no need to prime it with carb cleaner. Fuel pressure should be 48-55 psi from the fuel pressure test port. Good luck
 

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Thanks Ken. I did all those things you suggested, some more than once just to make sure. For some reason, though, I unplugged the MAF sensor and now it runs great. I get a code on the second engine cycle but still runs good. I'll drive it a day or 2 to see, then get one of the "gold" MAF sensors if all remains working. $130.00!!!!!:eek:
 

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That's some good new Mike, i'm glad YOU got it running ok, good job!
Can you post the code or codes that are comming up? Did you get the gold MAF sensor yet?

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No, I haven't gotten the sensor yet. The car is now idling fine but won't accellerate. I was getting no code before but since I unplugged the maf sensor, the "service engine soon" light has come on. I haven't scanned it yet, though. I'll try this weekend to clean it w/ some sensor cleaner and report back. Mike
 

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Well, I tried the sensor cleaner but no help. So I replaced the sensor. Working great now! I did notice, however, that while the engine was idling w/ the bad sensor unplugged, I could plug it in and the engine would die. Funny though, the computer never flashed a code. I've noticed too that the engine responds better now as far as throttle response than it did w/ the old sensor, even before it finally completely failed. Hope this can help others. Mike
 

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A rod is cool, but daily transportation is a must. Pull you're dipstick and see if there is a strong smell of raw gas, or it looks thinned down, a new filter and oil will be needed.
Ken:beers:
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