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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 350 block which got rusted-too long in the tank? (I switched machine shops after that). I have been wire brushing the whole thing to get the rust off, but I don't have wire brushes small enough to fit in the oil galley holes. The new machine shop guy said to use Muriatic acid. Is this a good idea?
Thanks,
John
 

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Muriatic acid will work. How rusty did the block get? If it is just surface rust I really would put too much effort into it. If it is actual scale then you will have to take care of that. Is it rusty in the oil passages? Or just water?

Royce
 

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Discussion Starter #3
When I first saw the block at the original machine shop, it looked great like bare metal. So I told the guy I wanted it and he said he would clean it up and magnaflux it for me. I called him a week later and he said it wasn't quite ready; I kept calling and a feww days after that it was "ready"-it looked like a rust bucket. I didnt know that was so bad since it was a machine shop giving it to me. I took it to another shop to get started on the rebuild and he said the rust would have to go to get a proper magnaflux and to wire brush it. All this to say I don't think the rust went that deep in a few days although it was quite extensive. The cylinder bores polished up nice with a 4 inch wire brush on a drill. I got the whole thing done except where I couldn't reach with spinning wire brushes. That's why I want to try the acid-so theres not rust residue in the oil of my "new" engine. I'm hoping this block will be worth building.
Thanks for the reply,
John
 

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I don't know about the use of Muratic Acid. I've used it on some small sheetmetal parts etc, and you have to rinse with water. It will flash rust almost overnight. I would suggest maybe letting the machine shop re-boil the block then start the machining immediately after that???

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Bret Copsey
'68 Camaro base coupe
'92 Caprice Wagon
'99 Venture Van
my 68 camaro
 

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I haven't looked around lately but there was at least one shop in my area that had a bead blast cleaning system. The blocks came out looking like brand new, slightly polished gray metal. Very nice. I think it was some combo of high heat, a liquid spray solution and beads (??). I know they finished it up with several rounds in a liquid only cleaning chamber. They also ran the brushes through all the galleys multiple times during each claening and the block ended up spic and span and just like new.

I need to look around for the service again myself. I did some trading at a local swap meet earlier this year and ended up with a rusty (surface) 400 block that I'd like to get cleaned up.
 
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