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Discussion Starter #1
I've already hacked and cleaned up most of it, but I just don't trust those 40 year old wires and I'm looking for advice on what to buy, concidering the following:
Battery is in the trunk, I run a full MSD set up (6AL box and pro billet dist), going to a one wire alt (100 amps or more) run aftermarket single fan and I'm going to add an electric fuel pump.
I've seen the kit from American Autowire, looks good...if you're stock.
I've seen painless/summit harness with 12-18 circuit...looks like it could be alot of work but, it's 300 bucks cheaper and might allow me to do a clean install with the ignition system (and not cut a 540$ harness).
All of my plugs for headlights and such are in good conditions, and I'm leaning towards Painless, unless you all have a better idea.
Oh yes, factory stock appearance is of no concern to me.

ideas?
 

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Search "painless" here; some guys like them, many had issues.

I don't know what AAW product you looked at, but it sounds like their "Classic Update" series would be what you want. It is set up with many "extra" circuits (electric fuel pump, electric fan, etc.) that an OE style harness does not have.
 

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You can usually pick it up for around $450 shipped on ebay or from one of their resellers like MuscleRodz (don't know what Mike's current price is though).
 

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wiring kits are wiring kits... some have different options you will and won't have. Ask questions before buying. And using a 1 wire alt is the biggest mistake you will ever make if you want constant reliable voltage. Go look at this site, and read ALL of the electrical tech articles... their stuff WORKS! The link below is related to charging systems, lots of good info.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire.shtml
 

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Discussion Starter #7
^ cool read, looks like the 3 wire hook up is not hard to install at all...I'll keep a 3 wire then. Hopefully I can find one that's at least 100amps or more, my fan pulls close to 50A and I can't remember what the ignition is sucking up...

One question: what do you guys think of the summit/EZwiring kit that has the fuse box that looks like a new model one (commonly found on new vehicles and mounted to the inner-fender).
I'm not to "skurd" of wiring at all, so I don't mind the "cut and clip" part (did enough of that with the original harness already). I just want something brand new, with no risk of catching it on fire or some other non-sense...
 

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... some have different options you will and won't have..........And using a 1 wire alt is the biggest mistake you will ever make if you want constant reliable voltage.
.........No problems with my 1 wire alternator:noway:.......but that's just my opinion:yes::D.

David F.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ok, so my alternator wasn't charging, so I ended up geting a powermaster 3 wire, 106amps/74amps at idle.
I haven't touched the wiring yet, but I've noticed that my new fan (pulls 50ams) is making the engine drop 100-150rpm when it kicks on.
What would cause that drop? it didn't do it before with a less powerfull fan and my 60 amp alternator.
I'm still connected as a 3 wire with the resistor/sensing wire hooke up like it should...
I do have the battery out back (1000 cold cranking amp).
Could it be bad ground straps? I've just noticed that I don't have one on the motor (doh!).
 

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the rpm drop is because of the load being placed on the alt... meaning it is working properly. No rpm drop means your charging system is non functional. The alt you bought will outcharge a 200 amp single wire unit if you hook the voltage sensing wire to the source of power to your accessories, based on the demand. Follow the guidelines @ MAD electrical word for word and you will be happening. I can make a 40 amp 3 wire outcharge any single wire 100 amp alt, and have won many bets proving it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
^ ok thanks, I'll check the original manual on the wiring, but I do believe the resistance/sens wire is going to the ignition switch...
I'll follow MAD's instructions too.
 

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JB,

I have used the painless kit for the 69 camaro before. I had a few problems with them but it is just how to figure out how it should be wired. Between there manual and a factory wiring schematic you will be able to figure it out. I use the 3 wire alternator. No problems with it. It is wired for the internal voltage regulator. Read the mad electric how too's. What he says is correct.

I had my car wired different than the factory and with a 140amp alternator and was having charging issues at night with the lights on. I read the mad electric on charging systems and rewired it like the factory did and it cured my problems. I had my alternator #8 wire going directly to the battery in the trunk instead of all the wires tied together in the engine area. Once I changed the #8 wire in the engine part my alternator and charging system started working correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
ok, so having the red wire coming off the regulator plug on the alternator hooking up to the gold post in the back of the alternator is NOT the way it should be wired, correct? If I understand correctly, that wire should go to my junction box (where I have my power wire to the fan relay).
 

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JB, check oout what Larry has to say. I got the New system from MAD and I too was not worried about stock appearence. Talk to Mark he will ask alot of questions first on what you have and what you are trying to do and will set you up with what you need. I would also do some checking on his site for other possible upgrades or projects that you might have in mind. And order when you have him on the line. He is hard to get a hold of. Best time is late in the evening, he is in CA. and I see you are in SC. When I got a hold of him it was 9PM IA time. Then we talked for almost an hour. I am glad I made the switch.
 

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ok, so having the red wire coming off the regulator plug on the alternator hooking up to the gold post in the back of the alternator is NOT the way it should be wired, correct? If I understand correctly, that wire should go to my junction box (where I have my power wire to the fan relay).

JB

For the alternator to sense the voltage correctly, it needs to hook up to a junction block. And all power wires should hook to the same junction. I have redone my wiring and I have a junction block on the driver fendewell. I also have my fans, headlights, horn relay, power to the fuse block and alternator power wire to the junction block. I also have a #8 wire from the battery to the junction block. So all my power wires go to the junction block with the power wire from the battery and alternator. This way the alternator senses the voltage and the alternator compensates for it.
 
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