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http://aeromotiveinc.com/1st-gen-f-body-stealth-fuel-tanks/

I really like the simplicity of a set up like this but am concerned with the pump itself.

Im still trying to get the hang of all this and want to make sure i have it correct to try to make this oversized pump still work well for me. One reason i am looking at something like this is because i want to go LS7/T56 down the road and would love to not have to mess with my fuel system too much.

What i am wondering is if i have this thing down to my 6-7 PSI at the regulator with a good return line, will it not burn up the pump? i know dead-headed with that kind of pump would kill it quickly. But a bypass regulator would allow the engine to take all the fuel it wanted and return everything else back to the tank without straining the pump too bad by choking it down correct ?
 

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You want to run an in-tank hi-pressure fuel injection pump with a carb ?

Am I missing something ?
 

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You want to run an in-tank hi-pressure fuel injection pump with a carb ?

Am I missing something ?
The link posted has specs and recommendations for carbed engines.
 

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You want to run an in-tank hi-pressure fuel injection pump with a carb ?

Am I missing something ?
Aeromotive sells the same pump for external or internal use. It out puts a lot of volume at 78 PSI. You have to use a pressure regulator with a return line to get the pump down to the 5-7 PSI that a Holley can tolerate to run (Volume is changed by the pressure used, •Flows 700 lbs/hour @ 13.5 volts @ 45 psi )

I used that A1000 Aeromotive pump for eight years on the street without any issue of the pump over heating, or of greater concern the fuel vapor locking from going through a hot pump. I used a half inch feed line and a three eighth inch return line (not recommended) because I assumed my 582 cube BBC was going to consume some of the fuel being pumped up front. I had twin black Holley pumps prior to this that did caused the gas to vapor lock even when using a return line (I had twin pumps as I had two fuel cells with pump gas in one and race gas in the other to support a 250 shot of Nitrous).

I can recommend the pump as an external pump but I have no experience with it in the tank. The factory puts the pump in the tank to cool them though I don't know how well they are sealed to keep gas out of the pump. I know once immersed that there is no danger of an explosion (burning) as the ratio of gas to air is far too rich). I think gas in the pump would slow it down due to fluid friction.

Big Dave
 

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That is a well established fuel pump. As for being in-tank, not a problem at all. In tank pumps have been proven to be without issues for a very long time. In fact a majority of many cars today come that way from the factory. They are engineered to be submersed.

The in-tank Stealth system is fine for carburetor setups according to Aeromotive Comp. As long as you use a return FPR which you already mentioned. There is also a way to use voltage drop to control output but I don't know if that pump is designed to work with a voltage reduction system. You'd have to ask the mfg.

Aeromotive has a tech line and they are very willing to discuss your needs and answer any questions. You also don't have to wait on hold forever like some places (ahem, holley,,,lol). Give em a call!
 

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What I want to know is what is wrong with a 3/8" return line. (factory original supply line on my car) I called Aeromotive to question the high pressure I was getting with their regulator that they advertised to work with TBI systems OR carbs. (6psi) I was told by their talking-head that MY return line was too restrictive and to replace it with a half inch line even though their docs didn't mention it. Well, great. Now what? I wanted to have the option of either induction system with their A1000 that had been in service for about 4 years and only failed 2 or three times. Great product. Right? (sarchasm)
So, instead of making my return line larger, I came up with the idea of using a pre-installed ball valve to make the supply line a little smaller. It's there to shut off the fuel returning when changing the filter at the tank. So, I tweaked the valve closed until the pressure gauge was showing 6 psi. I know, lame. But it worked until I could design a better system. I just removed Aeromotive's regulator and built a two stage regulator. That way nothing was restricted.
If I'm ranting it's because I just hate being told what amounts to, in my opinion, BS by the people who are there to support their product. Here's another one. MSD. I'm talking to them about one of many failures. I mention the wiring on the big-wire-side and how a capacitor is in-line to control radio static and had been there for over 30 years. He went ballistic and yelled at me to remove it because it's not an approved component with their stuff. He wanted to know where I got the idea to do such an awful thing? I told him too many years had passed to remember. Well, this conversation took place about two years ago. After hanging up I surfed their web site. You guessed it. The exact same capacitor (microfards or what ever they're called) is sold by MSD for the exact purpose as I used mine for, wired like I did. These companies are hiring their help by the pound. grrr.
Wanna hear about the tech man at Mickey Thompson tires? The guy who told me my flat slick is normal, that he sees it every day?! Yep slicks blowing out at 120mph is normal. I'll never buy their tires again.
 

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I agree with you that sometimes you get a person on the phone that has very limited product knowledge or application. I've ran into that before with MSD. I felt like I was talking to a high school kid (not even a clue about the most simplistic electrical theory). Very frustrating. But then I got to the right person that knew the product AND proper application on a better level and my question was answered. Heck, even MSD product instructions and spec sheets are dumbed down these days too.

I've always found Aeromotive to be good at product support though. The last time I spoke to them I got an engineer and he was very knowledgeable (and helpful).

More and more I think the "First Tier" lines of support are not much more than call takers and getting more frequent at some of these companies. MSD has been that way for a while now in my experience and perhaps they have gotten too big or changed to just pumping out parts for the bottom line.

I think you have to be specific and ask for someone else when you realize the person you are talking to has very limited experience and/or knowledge. Arguing or going 'round and 'round with the same single point person does not work.

As for your situation and original question posed - I don't know why your pump will not work just fine with a proper sized return regulator that will meet the needs of the pump. What FPR did you use? Many of the higher flow FPRs DO require a minimum of -AN10 (1/2") return because they are usually paired up with a high volume pump. So perhaps another FPR would better fit your needs.
 
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