Team Camaro Tech banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
951 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Good news and bad, good, my engine finally started, after working non stop on the problem.. which was distributor being to big and hitting the firewall, therefore, having to buy a small cap (i had hei before) and new MSD hei cap... finally get the firing order right and connect the battery and gas line, cranked it and wahla! it started, ran for about 30 seconds, and then died.. at this point i have my jimmy can running a tub to my fuel pump, so the starving for gas was because the tube was sucking from the bottom of the can.. anyways fixed that, started it, ran for another 30-45 seconds, and i shut if off.... ITS WHEN i noticed the coil squirting its oil all over my firewall, it honestly looked like it was gonna blow up.. well i had all my wires set up correctly, took it back to parts store and they said theyd never seen something like it.. exchange for a brand new one!

take a look for yourselves!


and this is the after math of the coil!




and how it sits, as of yesterday lol


 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,357 Posts
wow, never seen that before!! HATE TO HEAR YOU HAD ALL THAT TROUBLE!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,419 Posts
I'd go back through the wiring one more time to make sure the coil wire isn't frayed or rubbing against anything. It sounds like it was running a little rough so I'd also double-check the distributor and timing to make sure its not a tooth off -- good luck with the project - I'm sure you'll get it fixed and be driving your Camaro around in no time
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,222 Posts
Looks like a bad crimp on that coil maybe.

Too late now but don't touch that coil oil with bare hands. Transformer oil is PCB, polychlorinated Biphenyl which is a carcinogen. Or it used to be pcb anyhow, idk if they still use it in xformers but I'd bet they do before I touched the stuff.

btw, pretty car and nice clean driveway. I love a nice clean driveway, I spend far too many hours powerwashing mine. Good mindless activity and the result gets you a nice drive and a rested mind.

edit: did a pcb search, it was banned in 1979.

edit2: maybe not
c/p from wikipedia, last sentence......
However, they continued to be allowed in "totally enclosed uses" such as transformers and capacitors, which, in certain failure modes or out-of-specification conditions, can leak, catch fire, or explode. It was Ward B. Stone of the New York State Department of Environmental Conservation who first published his findings in the early 1970s that PCBs were leaking from transformers and had contaminated the soil at the bottom of utility poles[citation needed]. Concern over the toxicity and persistence (chemical stability) of PCBs in the environment led the United States Congress to ban their domestic production in 1979[12], although some use continues in closed systems such as capacitors and transformers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,399 Posts
How did you have the coil mounted? I have one of those coils and MSD says not to have the coil mounted horizontally, because the oil inside it can't cool the coil properly. You need to have it mounted vertically.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,583 Posts
How did you have the coil mounted? I have one of those coils and MSD says not to have the coil mounted horizontally, because the oil inside it can't cool the coil properly. You need to have it mounted vertically.
I have ran that coil side ways for 15 years and never had a problem. Still have it sideways, knock on wood.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,182 Posts
Yep, had one blow up on me also. Check your wiring at the starter. Make sure the battery cable didn't turn just enough to contact the pole on the solenoid with the wire that runs to the coil.

Mark
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
951 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I hope i have the wiring connect right,this is what i have,

I have a starter, that does not have an "R", but right now, I have battery cable, red wire feed from alternator, brown cable(ignition) with puple cable(solenoid) from the fuse box. the Purple is connected to the "s" or the small screw on the solenoid, and all the rest are connected to the "bat" larger screw on the solenoid. There is one more large screw on the solenoid that has the starter wire going to (nothing else BUT the starter is there)... NOW.. the yellow wire that comes with the AAW kit, says to put yellow "R" wire to the "R" screw on the solenoid, which i dont have... i searched R and it says that it comes from the ballast resistor and needs constant 12v power.. so I am assuming it goes to that same screw as the battery cable..?

It says to put the coil verticle on the car, but that is suggest mounting suggestion :-S
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,842 Posts
You should exchange the new one they gave you with an epoxy filled coil, not oil.
I would advance the timing a tad too, judging by the flames coming from the carb.
good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,349 Posts
I hope i have the wiring connect right,this is what i have,

I have a starter, that does not have an "R", but right now, I have battery cable, red wire feed from alternator, brown cable(ignition) with puple cable(solenoid) from the fuse box. the Purple is connected to the "s" or the small screw on the solenoid, and all the rest are connected to the "bat" larger screw on the solenoid. There is one more large screw on the solenoid that has the starter wire going to (nothing else BUT the starter is there)... NOW.. the yellow wire that comes with the AAW kit, says to put yellow "R" wire to the "R" screw on the solenoid, which i dont have... i searched R and it says that it comes from the ballast resistor and needs constant 12v power.. so I am assuming it goes to that same screw as the battery cable..?

It says to put the coil verticle on the car, but that is suggest mounting suggestion :-S
You need to remove the brown wire from the battery post on the starter. That should be connected to the IGN spade on your fuseblock and only get power when the the key is turned to "start" and "run".

Also, you do not need to connect the yellow wire since you have the new electronic ignition. It is for a points system to provide 12V fed from a relay on the starter only when you turn the key to "start".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
951 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
You need to remove the brown wire from the battery post on the starter. That should be connected to the IGN spade on your fuseblock and only get power when the the key is turned to "start" and "run".

Also, you do not need to connect the yellow wire since you have the new electronic ignition. It is for a points system to provide 12V fed from a relay on the starter only when you turn the key to "start".

My brown wire comes from my engine bay fuse though, and its connected to the battery post on the solenoid.. where else would it go if it didnt go there?

I dont have a ignition system, only distributor and coil.. does that mean i do not need the yellow wire from the resistor to go to the starter solenoid?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,349 Posts
My brown wire comes from my engine bay fuse though, and its connected to the battery post on the solenoid.. where else would it go if it didnt go there?

I dont have a ignition system, only distributor and coil.. does that mean i do not need the yellow wire from the resistor to go to the starter solenoid?
I was thinking when you called it an ignition wire it was added when you put the HEI (now small cap) in. Where is the other end of that brown wire connected?

I've been running an HEI since I've had my car so I'm not an expert on the old ballast systems. In those old points systems though, the resistor wire from the bulkhead fed the coil and the yellow wire was only 12V when starting the car (via an internal relay in the starter) to provide a full 12V during startup.

Maybe I'm hurting more than I'm helping since I gutted the bad job someone else did on mine and am running an HEI.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
951 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
i wish i could run an hei, but it wont fit the clearance on my firewall..

i think ima change to a ignition system.. like msd
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,143 Posts
I have ran that coil side ways for 15 years and never had a problem. Still have it sideways, knock on wood.
If you do mount it sideways, mount it so the two terminals are are towards the bottom. Ensures terminal contacts are below the oil level.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,842 Posts
i wish i could run an hei, but it wont fit the clearance on my firewall..

i think ima change to a ignition system.. like msd
You do know they make small diameter H.E.I distributors? D.U.I sells them.
I bet if you replaced your trans mount and body mounts the large diameter hei would fit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,765 Posts
The round coil do require you mount the studs at the bottom when mounted sideways. The coils are not filled completely and when you mount it with the studs at the top, the air pocket inside uncovers the studs causing it to overheat. You should mount the upright, but if not, then make sure the studs are at the bottom. They do make a mount that will mount it upright and it will fit in the factory location. I have one that I just used to mount my FlameThrower 2 coil.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top