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Discussion Starter #1
For those of you that have put tubular control arms on how much camber are you running? I was reading on the pozzi racing site that 1 degree can cause tire wear. The reason I am asking is that I am having problems getting below 1 degree negative camber with the control arms I have. I ideally wanted to have 1/2 degree negative with 4 or 4 1/2 degrees caster.
 

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For those of you that have put tubular control arms on how much camber are you running? I was reading on the pozzi racing site that 1 degree can cause tire wear. The reason I am asking is that I am having problems getting below 1 degree negative camber with the control arms I have. I ideally wanted to have 1/2 degree negative with 4 or 4 1/2 degrees caster.
I have the SpeedTech UCA/LCA combo and was running 5 degrees positive caster on the drivers side and 5 1/2 degrees positive caster on the passenger side. 1/2 degree of negative camber and 3/32 toe in on both sides.

I just installed a RideTech TruTurn setup and did the Guldstrand mod. I'll shoot for a little more negative camber (-1 to -1.5) with the new setup, caster will probably stay about the same.

Which control arms are you running? Some of them have a cross shaft that you can rotate to increase/decrease the camber (moves the shaft closer/further from the subframe).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have the SpeedTech UCA/LCA combo and was running 5 degrees positive caster on the drivers side and 5 1/2 degrees positive caster on the passenger side. 1/2 degree of negative camber and 3/32 toe in on both sides.

I just installed a RideTech TruTurn setup and did the Guldstrand mod. I'll shoot for a little more negative camber (-1 to -1.5) with the new setup, caster will probably stay about the same.

Which control arms are you running? Some of them have a cross shaft that you can rotate to increase/decrease the camber (moves the shaft closer/further from the subframe).

I have the ones from Speedway Motors. There are inserts where you can adjust the mount point but I think they can only really fit on one way. I would be ok with a little negative camber if I were able to adjust the caster appropriately. The only way I could get the camber I had was to remove all shims. Aren't you concerned about premature tire wear with that much negative camber? Or do you not do a much highway driving?
 

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Some of them have a cross shaft that you can rotate to increase/decrease the camber (moves the shaft closer/further from the subframe).

Yeah, look into an offset cross shaft, Global West makes one. I use it on stock control arms with their Del-A-Lum bushings, I run -.5° camber with 3.5° caster.
 

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If I'm understanding you correctly all shims are out and your camber is more negative than one degree. You need an offset shaft or the crossmember needs to be bent. Chain down the outsides and jack up the center. You will get some spring back most likely so I might look for 1/2 positive under pressure and hope for about dead zero when all relaxed and rolled out. This used to be common practice but it's hard to find anyone left that knows shim alignments any more.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If I'm understanding you correctly all shims are out and your camber is more negative than one degree. You need an offset shaft or the crossmember needs to be bent. Chain down the outsides and jack up the center. You will get some spring back most likely so I might look for 1/2 positive under pressure and hope for about dead zero when all relaxed and rolled out. This used to be common practice but it's hard to find anyone left that knows shim alignments any more.

Jeff

I thought of doing this, I do have an autobody background and have done frame work before. The biggest issue is figuring out what to chain down the outsides to.


What I am doing in the mean time is I installed the a-arms in the original location and I am going to adjust my coil overs so the lower ball joint is as close to level as I can to the lower control arm pivot point and see how it looks for stance. I have an app on my phone that I can measure degrees on (though I am not sure how accurate it is). I will do some measurements that way.
 

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I have the ones from Speedway Motors. There are inserts where you can adjust the mount point but I think they can only really fit on one way. I would be ok with a little negative camber if I were able to adjust the caster appropriately. The only way I could get the camber I had was to remove all shims. Aren't you concerned about premature tire wear with that much negative camber? Or do you not do a much highway driving?
I didn't have any bad wear with .5 neg camber, and I've been running that way for 5 or 6 years. I only drive a couple thousand miles per year, and now want to set the Camaro up better for road course events. The track will chew the tires up much faster than my highway driving!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I got my control arms moved and some measurements with my phone and an angle finder app tells me I have ~.6 - .7 degrees of positive camber. That hopefully will give me enough room to get it adjusted and not have to go more than .5 degrees negative camber.
 
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