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Discussion Starter #1
I am having an erratic charge problem. It will charge for a few seconds and then quite. I've tried the test in this section on checking the external reg. system and have found the problem. With the key on engine off I only get 2.9 volts on the blue wire and 2.9 volts on the brown (supposed to be blue 10.5, brown 13). Any ideas of a fix, this car has console gauges.
 

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Does that explain the voltage problem? I've tried another known good regulator, I would be willing to try it but I just hate to spend the money.
 

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Bad connections, bad grounds, etc. are always a possibility, but it's hard for anyone to say for sure unless we can put our hands on it and take measurements with a digital volt meter.

If you're going to stick with the stock setup, replace that old mechanical regulator with the wells part Everett mentioned. Personally I'd update the alternator to a CS-130 and never look back.
 

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As Dave suggests, I'd clean the connections, especially those at the horn relay buss bar and at the junction block next to the battery and on the alt BAT terminal.

Make sure all grounds are good connection, make sure the alt case and rad support/VR chassis have less than 1 ohm of resistance between them. You do say it does 'charge' for a few seconds, does voltmeter across battery posts read the same, 14 volts or more, then battery voltage? Reads like a connection has some corrosion built up, corrosion heats up, voltage drops like a rock.

If you have a '67 & '69, the brown wire on the VR plug goes to the GEN light in the dash.
In '68, the same wire is Pink from VR to firewall, then brown, and ends up at the GEN light.

Your console ammeter is connected between the horn relay buss bar(?) and junction block next tot he battery - actual ammeter is a millivolt meter in reality meaning its measuring the amount of voltage loss for the length of wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Everette, I guess a little more info is in order. Every inch of wiring is new and every other component works as it should, that's what's maddening. In trying to trace voltages I haven't found in the AIM where the brown wire goes as it has console gauges and the gen. light is plugged off. Now I did notice I get battery voltage on the brown wire with VR unplugged, but when plugged in it drops to 2.6v.The car is restored original so changing to a CS-130 alt. is not something I want to do. It just seems like a band-aid at this point and wouldn't really tell me where the problem is. Thanks for the help. BTW does anyone know why there is a b/w resistor wire tied in to the charging system harness?
 

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My '68 AIM shows a brn/wht wire from ign switch to firewall connector thru to brn wire crimped with a org fusible link to the horn relay buss bar.

Motor's Manual, 1969, shows for Delcotron with external regulator, a resistive wire from ACC terminal of ign switch to VR terminal 4. This resistive wire parallels the tan or brown wire from IGN terminal going through the GEN light. If GEN light burns out, then resistive circuit takes over to continually keep the alternator working.
 

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Chaulk one up for a electronic v/r, After tearing into everything and checking voltages and finding no problems I broke down and got one from Auto Zone and it worked fine. Who would have thought two regular regulators wouldn't have worked from new. Thanks for all the help.
 
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