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Discussion Starter #1
Thanks for the help everyone. Here's my problem.

I have a 69 SS350 thats was completely rewired with an American Autowire kit in 2015. The ignition is a Mallory 6A wired to an HEI distributor. The coil on the distributor has been bypassed for the Mallory.

A few weeks back, I was sitting in the car idling. The car shut off by itself. I jumped it and it ran for about a minute and then died for good. Typical alternator issue right. Well, yes. The alternator was dead. I replaced it. Problem is, I have no power at ignition. I have lights, dash, interior etc. But when i turn the key, I get nothing.

I replaced the ignition tumbler in the column a few weeks back so it's brand new. The ignition switch was replaced when the AAW kit was installed. All the fuses check out fine. The fuse block has power.

Could the alternator going out have fried the Mallory 6A? Could it have fried something else I'm not thinking of?

Thanks again everyone.
 

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Al - Waterloo, Iowa
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Check the neutral safety switch. If that's good check for power at the starter solenoid when the
key is turned to the start position. If that's good the solenoid is probably toast. If no power at
the solenoid check incoming power to the ignition switch. Keep checking back up the line until
you find the fault. An electrical diagram will help.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks @allanjs!
I did test the starter but bypassing the solenoid but I did not test the solenoid.
 

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I can't remember, does the 6A have an internal or inline fuse? Did you check that fuse? Also check your battery. Sometimes when your alternator goes it takes the battery with it or does some internal damage that doesn't show up for a few months.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well it’s been a while but I finally got around to this electrical problem again. I pulled the starter and bench tested it and it checked out fine. Traced the wires back to the neural safety switch and sure enough, like you guys said, it was bad. No volts coming out when the key turned. Replaced it. Now, I’ve decided to fix an issue I’ve been dealing with a long time- heat soak on my solenoid. I’m trying to find a heat shield that will fit my Summit Mini Torque starter and cant seem to find one that fits. Any suggestions or experience?

Also, have you guys got any suggestions about clocking the starter. I was thinking I’d try to clock the solenoid away from the header to help with the problem but I can’t seem to get it to fit any other way. Anyone have that starter that might have it mounted different than I do?

Thanks again guys!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Any chance you’d have a link to that article on the Nova Resource page? How’s it work?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
New question: is there any way to adjust a 69 floor shift neutral safety switch (horseshoe style shifter)? The car starts fine in neutral. Doesn’t start in drive and my hunch is that the switch isn’t fully engaged when it’s in drive. I’m hoping you fellas know if there’s a way. My initial thought might be to move the switch forward or back using some washers on the mounting screws. Thoughts? Is there another way? Thanks as always.
 

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The switch has slots for sliding forwards & backwards.
Loosen nuts and adjust away.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok - sorry for the absence. The older I get the less time I have to work on the car - sadly. So, I checked the neutral safety switch and of course it was bad. Replaced it, put in a starter heat shield and the car started up and ran great. I Yes, I said "ran." But, thanks for all the help. At least I think i've fixed my electrical problem.

Drove the car for about 2 weeks, ran great, then at about 70 mph on the highway, it shuts off. I coast to a stop and thank God I'm alive. I pulled the fuel line and it seemed dry so I theorized that my fuel pump might be bad. But, then after I got the car towed home, I inspected it more and noticed that the fender ground on the battery was totally fried. I replaced it. The car will crank but still won't start. I put on a new fuel pump, still no start. I'm planning to blow the fuel lines out this weekend to make sure there's no gunk in there and try again to start it.

All that to say this, is there something I'm missing? I suppose I need to check spark, vacuum and fuel delivery to rule them out. But that fried fender ground has me confused. I also suppose that might lead you to tell me I need to check my grounds. But, would a bad ground allow the car the crank?

End all be all, I have a car with a new fuel pump, haven't checked the lines, don't know if I have spark or vacuum leak. Is there something simpler it could be?

As always, you guys are awesome and thanks for the help.

Rob
 

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Rob, You can install a remote solenoid. Here's a link explaining it.
https://www.novaresource.org/starter.htm
Somehow that diagram does not work for me. Stock goes batt + to Solenoid +.
With remote solenoid hot from batt and hot to starter on the same terminal does not really do much at least in the trunk mounted battery. Did I miss something?
 
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Somehow that diagram does not work for me. Stock goes batt + to Solenoid +.
With remote solenoid hot from batt and hot to starter on the same terminal does not really do much at least in the trunk mounted battery. Did I miss something?
I questioned that as well. I don't see how that set up corrects a heat soaked solenoid issue unless the more direct (less connections) path from the B+ gives it more voltage to over come high resistance in the solenoid windings. If I were to put one on my car the Heavy cable from the battery would go to one side of the Ford solenoid and another heavy cable would go to the large terminal on the starter, a solid metal connection would be made between the "S" and the large terminal so when the battery cable was hot the solenoid circuit would be as well.

Jeff
 

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Al - Waterloo, Iowa
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Somehow that diagram does not work for me. Stock goes batt + to Solenoid +.
With remote solenoid hot from batt and hot to starter on the same terminal does not really do much at least in the trunk mounted battery. Did I miss something?
I questioned that as well. I don't see how that set up corrects a heat soaked solenoid issue unless the more direct (less connections) path from the B+ gives it more voltage to over come high resistance in the solenoid windings. If I were to put one on my car the Heavy cable from the battery would go to one side of the Ford solenoid and another heavy cable would go to the large terminal on the starter, a solid metal connection would be made between the "S" and the large terminal so when the battery cable was hot the solenoid circuit would be as well.

Jeff
The author explains why this works (voltage drop) in the 2nd paragraph of the link I supplied.
 

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The author explains why this works (voltage drop) in the 2nd paragraph of the link I supplied.
When you have a trunk mounted battery the aim was to deactivate the high amp positive cable to the starter when not actually starting in case of shorts to the frame. I have not done it because I don't have the time or ambition right now to tear out the interior to run more wiring. The bada$$ welding cable I used to run to the starter will likely out live me.
 
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