Team Camaro Tech banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 90' Camaro TBI with a 350 swap and the positive battery cable going to the starter accidentally grounded on the oil dip stick from improper insulation. We fixed that issue. Car starts fine and drives fine but the alternator does not charge.

Alternator Has a 2 wire plug, along with the thick 4-8 gauge positive battery cable wire with nut coming off of it.

The Red Wire on the plug shows +12V (confirmed with multimeter)
The Brown wire on the plug:
-Shows no Voltage
-No Continuity to the battery cable (+12v wire)
-No Continuity to groud
-So its an "open" wire I suppose?

The Thick 4-8 gauge wire with the nut (red wire) shows only 0.46 volts, though it obviously should show battery voltage regardless of key position IIRC.

I checked the Crappy Wiring Diagram the Haynes Manual shows, and it shows the brown wire running to the Fan fuse (which is fine), though my multimeter is showing 0 volts on it.
The thick 4-8 gauge wire shows it going to the battery though there is I believe a fusible link, but either I dont know the location of it or I cant find it.

Any Advice Guys?
(Alternator is good, it is brand new & has been tested at autozone)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,277 Posts
Sounds like you've narrowed it down to the voltage supply through the fan fuse. Does your manual show where the fan fuse gets it's power from?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,345 Posts
The heavy wire does come directly from the battery thru a fusible link. The link should be very near the battery...maybe attached to the core support between the bat and radiator. My manual indicates the link should be a rust color. The red wire comes from the starter solenoid thru another fusible link also rust colored. The links are in the wire and the insulation should appear wrinkled as from heat. It may not be burned off on the outside, but the wire melts internally.
The wire from the bat should indicate full 12 volts at all times. The red wire should indicate 12 volts with the key in start position. The brown wire goes to the coolant fan relay and should indicate 12 volts in run or position or possibly while running.
Hope this helps.....:yes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Well i found the fusible link on the heavy wire coming off of the alternator and it was blown, so i tried to get some more "fusible link wire" but i could only find an "in-line fuse" so i ran one of those with a 15fuse

BUT the car STILL doesn't hold a charge!

Could another fusible link be blown? like one coming off of the top of the alternator red/brown wires?
What do those wires even do? i know they're necessary but could i hard wire them temperately because i need my car back haha its my daily driver
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,345 Posts
The red wire comes from the starter solenoid thru another fusible link also rust colored.
Hope this helps.....:yes:
Look for a burned link down by the solenoid.
I'm not sure that a 15 amp fuse will be sufficient for the bat wire. Don't be surprised if it needs a 30.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
32,349 Posts
Fifteen nor thirty amp fuse is not large enough for alt output fuse. Need more like a 60 -80 amp because alt, depending upon load, will max rated output stamped on case. Run all those accessories turned on, ignition, and battery charge.

Reason for fusible link. Links are typically 4 AWG's smaller than power wire, 8 AWG will ahve a section of 12 AWG for fusible link.

You can use the 30 amp for troubleshooting output of alt and correcting other problems, but in the end, a fusible link will be needed.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top