I bought a single wire 100 amp for my 327 from summit. I went with a 100 amp because I run a pretty large stereo. I wouldn't recommend any more than that for it squeels the belt. It is self exciting and requires only one wire to the batt. I got the powder coat blue for 99 bucks. I think the chrome is the same price.
If you are going to run a 100 amp unit the main power wire from the alternator to the battery should be replaced. The OEM alternator only made 62 amps max and after 30+ years the original wire is likely marginal. If you go with a 62 amp one-wire then you are good to go but the alternator warning light will no longer be operational.
The nice thing about the CS conversion is that if it croaks in the middle of nowhere you can get another at any auto parts store. The warning light can be made functional.
go to the parts store, and ask for an alternator for a 88( i think) Pontiac Grand Am with a 2.5 4 cyl and all the options. they can also hook you up with the proper plug, or go to a dealer and shell out the $12 for the plug. the alt you get is a newer style CS alt, with 120 amps of output- and it bolts right in, but you may need to put your pulley on it. and, yes, you should upgrade the wire from alt to battery- i'd suggest a starter cable for a ford from the solenoid to the starter. the bigger, the better.
1971 Nova(looks like 69 camaro from underneath!)
355sb, vortec heads, HOT cam,T-10 tranny, 3.70 gears 16X8" IROC wheels. 12" Corvette brakes on the way.
see pics here http://community.webshots.com/user/novaderrik
NAVLONE.....if your alternator is squealing the belt, then something is amiss. These alternators only take a little more than a horsepower at full tilt....so either the belt is tattered or wrong belt(doesn't fit grove) or the unit is faulty.
STEVE JACK ConceptOne Pulleys and Brackets
[This message has been edited by HOTRODSRJ (edited 02-26-2002).]
The alt itself is powder coated but the pully is indeed chrome. I tightened it to where it needed to be and squeeeeeel at full throttle from idle. The belt fits fine in the groove but I didn't even think about the chrome pully. I will sand it tonight. Thanks for the info....
Yes it is the magnum from summit. It looks great. I had a hard time choosing between that and chrome. I don't know long term performance for my car is just a driveway cruiser but definatly no disappointments in looks.
Search for chevelle alternator conversion The chevelle site has a great article on the conversion. There is also a plug you can buy to bypass the external regulator. You definately need a healthier wire from the battery to the alternator
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by red69camaro: Search for chevelle alternator conversion The chevelle site has a great article on the conversion. There is also a plug you can buy to bypass the external regulator. You definately need a healthier wire from the battery to the alternator <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Umm, why are y'all changing alternators? There is only one reason you should need more output, and that is not cause of a big stereo.
That's because the battery charge is not being maintained. That is the only factor that matters.
There's practically nothing on an early car that pulls any power except for the blower motor for the interior. That leaves plenty of power left for a stereo, it doesn't pull that big of an average current.
The only other potential current draw is an added electric cooling fan. A fan can pull big current. But if you're not idling all the time and it's not cycling on all the time, it will probably be OK.
Two things to realize about alternators. One is the rated output is at a certain rpm. The actual output is pretty low at idle and increases with rpm and depends on the pulley ratios.
The second is that if you oversize it, the larger alterators have a larger rotating inertia. Hence you have the belt squeal issues (again dependent on pulley ratio) and you waste energy by accelerating and decelerating that mass at every shift.
Changing alternators is trendy, but the old stuff works fine.
I used to do OEM alternator design.
i have subs, and a high powered deck, so I was drawing way too much for my stock alternator. went to a GM truck alternator (think they're rated at 100amp) and haven't had any problems since. spliced in a diode to the 12 volt trigger wire so it will turn off because it's internally regulated. had problems with it the first day, but I think it was a bad diode, I replaced it and haven't had a problem since (4 months).
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