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Discussion Starter #1
i've decided to go with the eddlebrock RPM set up on my 327, but want that stock look. would i be crazy to paint them orange so they match the block? opinions? everybody's got one!

thanks!

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original '69 RS 327 convertible
 

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I painted mine plus the manifold and the tall plain stamped aluminum valve covers. The car is parked outside, and I don't want anyone to know what it has unless they look very hard. Plus I like the sleeper look.

Steve R.
 

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One of the nice things about aluminum heads is the heat transfer. You may lose that if you paint them.

Wasn't there a thread here a while ago about painting heads and/or intakes? Might want to run a search.

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Mark

1992 Firebird 355/Six Speed
1991 RS 350 / 700-R4
1987 Toyota Pickup 383 / 500 + HP 10.963 @ 119.95 Slicks / 11.997 @ 114.23 Radials
http://personal.lig.bellsouth.net/~racer383/
 

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yeh i remember that thread mark. wasnt it paint the bottom of the intake black and leave the top natural? that way the black would absorb the heat, and the silver on top would dissapate it quicker? well i think thats what it was about.

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Black 82 Z28 t-top, 350 w/ TH350
 

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Actually, you want a polished surface on the bottom of the manifold, so it doesn't absorb the heat from the oil, and a black surface on the top so it emits the absorbed heat from the oil and water to the surrounding air.

On the last post, David Pozzi made a good point about Vizard's book stating that the manifold's top surface should be polished in order to eliminate the cool intake air from being heated by the surrounding environment. This is true for a drag car. In a most drag applications, the engine really has no heat built in it, so the water and oil have not had a chance to heat the manifold completely, and there is enough volume of fuel/air at WOT to cool the intake significantly. However, in a street application, the water and oil are very hot, and the manifold has only part-throttle fuel/air moving through it. In the case of an aluminum manifold, the heat created by the water and oil needs to be dissipated into the atmosphere as quickly as possible to keep manifold temps down. Therefore, you need a surface on the top of the manifold which will dissipate heat quickly. A polished manifold WILL NOT do this, so painting the manifold black will help since black emits heat faster than other colors. In fact, in a street application, cooling fins on the top of the manifold, much like a heat sink in an amplifier, would help dissipate this heat (but it wouldn't look good).

The bottom line to manifold coatings/colors is you have to take into account the temperature gradient of the manifold and surrounding air. If the manifold temp is much higher, you need to dissipate the heat into the air, so a black color will accomplish this. In a race environment, where the manifold could be cooler than the surrounding air, due to the evaporation of large amounts of fuel, the manifold could be thermally coated to eliminate any heat transfer into the surrounding air. The ideal situation in a race engine would be to thermally coat the inside of the intake ports and the bottom of the manifold.

I know this is off the subject a bit, but I don't think painting aluminum heads will hinder the heat transfer enough to cause a concern. I know the Edelbrock heads on my '69 will be painted, because I like the sleeper look, too. Of all the aluminum heads on the market, I think the Edelbrock heads are the hardest to discern from stock heads when painted. They don't have a lot of machined logos/surfaces on them, and look very close to stock when painted. Take care.

Shane

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69 SSRS Frame-off Resto
81 Z-28 377ci Drag Car
 

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The cooling differences between painted vs. unpainted will be minimal on the street. I'd leave them with the natural Aluminum finish, they look great. I have a set of AFR's and they look great without. RockyMtnRacer has the performer RPM's with the natural finish and they too look great. Besides, it you get tired of aluminum, then paint them.

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Shawn Peterson
1969 Z28, 406SB
http://www.geocities.com/corsican69
 
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Jordan, I'm the freak who painted an RPM mani on my 396 cause most folks assumed it was a stock mill . Now that is cool.

Heat transfer on alum heads IS NOT a good thing so I say shoot 'em orange.

And for the record, my tripower intake and alum L88 heads are mirror polished. Schweet but hard to maintain.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
orange, it is. i might even keep the stock exhaust manifolds, instead of going with headers, but that's another story. stock (looking) is a good thing!

jp

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original '69 RS 327 convertible
 
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Hmm, yes I agree, but JetHot coated headers don't detract IMO and with that cam/heads/ brother, you want that mouse to breathe.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
that's what i've been told. the guy doing the engine work says it's a waste of money to put all the work into the top end and choke it with the stock exhaust manifolds...but the guy doing the resto says headers detracts from the original look too much at shows....hmmmm. power IS king, i guess.

jp

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original '69 RS 327 convertible
 

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I tried to do the stock exhaust manifold thing. I was not really as worried about stock looks, as with leaks. I never really have liked the sound of headers. After driving around for a while, I am now looking for the extra HP headers would bring. Oh well, I tried!

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Mark

1992 Firebird 355/Six Speed
1991 RS 350 / 700-R4
1987 Toyota Pickup 383 / 500 + HP 10.963 @ 119.95 Slicks / 11.997 @ 114.23 Radials
http://personal.lig.bellsouth.net/~racer383/
 
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FWIW, many folks swear by the Dynomax units sold by Summit. Coated. Fit good. $218 or so. I did Hooker because I wanted 2" for the rat.

BEND OVER


And they didn't fit.

Unless your building a 7200 rpm shift point LT1 ( the old kind ), you dont need big tubes. Smaller is better.

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Gene
Team Chevelle Gold Member /ACES
67 SS 427 Chevelle
 

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I have Doug Thorley headers on my 1969 SS 396/375. They are 1 3/4" and I had them ceramic coated here locally. They are very high quality and because they are rather small primaries, they are easy to work with.
They also look great on the engine. I had Hooker super comps 2" and they were too big and a PITA for plug changes or oil changes.
Bying the Hookers was about a $600.00 mistake for a street car.
 
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