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i currently have 15" rally wheels with flat caps on my 69 ss 396 (see pic - maybe). if i every change them out i would like to go with the American Torque Thrust IIs either in 15" or 16" , maybe ever 17" could anybody email me a pic of their car with these wheels to give me an ideal of the finished look? thanks, mike p.s. email me a pic even if you don't have these wheels, i just like lookin'



[This message has been edited by mike brown (edited 11-22-99).]
 

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Mike,

I just bought a set of the brushed aluminum American Racing Torque Thrust II's (16 inch)and they arived via UPS just the other day! I pulled them out of the box and they are absolutely gorgeous -- I can't wait to get them on my car. They were fairly expensive for a high school student (about $800), but they will really add to the appearance of my car. They will be going on my daily-driven/ restoration-mobile after a front end revampment including PST polygraphite bushings, springs, shocks and swaybar equipment. 16x7 in the front (3 1/4 backspacing) with 225 comp t/a's and 16x8 rears (4 1/4 backspacing) with 255s fit perfectly under all four corners. I will send some before and after pictures just as soon as I complete the procedure. They are a great wheel and will really add to the quality of your ride! Good luck and email if you have any questions.

P.S. - great pics of your car - a truly beautiful machine!

penguinjohn
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peguinjohn,

I am also looking to put a similar set up on my 68. What year is your ride, and do those sizes of wheels stick out of the wheel wells at all?

I just redid my front end with the PST kit and it rides great! I think you will be happy with it.s
 

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ollie,

What a coincidence, I also have a 68. I made precise measurements to insure that the wheels would neither rub nor stick out and they came out perfectly. In order to accomidate future lowering coils if need be (I want it to sit a little lower than stock) I set the wheels in 1/2 of an inch from the wheel lip when, considering that the tire will probably overlap the rim a good .25 - .50 inch leaves for a very fit-and-finish look that I am very pleased with. Please feel free to post any other questions. Oh, before I go, what kit did you order from PST, the super or the regular? How much did it run you? How long did the procedure take? Thanks in advance.

penguinjohn
 

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Penguinjohn,

I went with the super front end kit. The procedure should probably take only a few days, due to having a few bushings pressed in by a shop. It took me a little longer because i recieved the wrong diameter sway bar bushing and i was converting to front disc brakes at the same time. I cant recall how much i paid, but i did check out other companies and PST offered the best deal.

Do you think 16x8 wheel would fit in front without rubbing? How do i measure to find the correct dimensions of wheel appropriate? I need to measure because i dont know if the disc brake conversion altered the spindle distance from the frame.

thanks for all the info.

ollie
 

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ollie,

As far as I could imagine, a 8 in wheel up front would fit just fine. I have seen it done before without any modifications to the wheel well. I just chose the 7 in because 1. it was cheaper and 2. I was only planning on running 225's. Just to be on the safe side, however, I would take extra care when measuring backspacing, diameter clearance, etc to make sure that they will truly fit.

When I measured for my wheels, I put my car up on jack stands on all 4 corners (make sure that you are on flat ground) and removed all of the wheels. I made sure, however that I measured the distance of the original rim from the fender lip for a reference point on the front wheels, as they will droop when you have them in the air. I removed all of the wheels and dropped a plumb line from the top screw on the fender lip and measured its distance from the spindle. Where the plumb touched the groud, I drew a line on the ground below that ran perpedicular to the spindle. This was my basline. I started guessing: "Well, if I get 3 1/2 backspacing that would leave me with 3 1/2 sticking out past the rotor." I dropped another plumb line from the point on the rotor where the wheel sits and drew a line along my reference (baseline) 3 1/2 inches with a ruler. I then looked at the distance between the wheel well mark and the mark that I just made and guessed and checked from there. I did the same behind the rotor and checked lock to lock to make sure that the wheel would not rub. I tried to make a diagram using characters, but it looked like crap so, if you email me I would see what I could do to get you some pictures or something. I hope that you can understand my message.

penguinjohn
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Hi All I was not sure how to do this I have uploaded a pic of my car with the Torque Thrust wheels. I think they are Torque Thrust 2 but they have very deep lug nut holes, the nuts go inside the hole. Does anyone know what style they are.
mantova1969
 

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