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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just trying to understand why my RS headlight doors on my 69 won't open, they worked before and the only change is I put a new engine in it. Old motor was pulling about 16" of vac and the new one is about 12-13".
I understand this is most likely the reason and I am wondering, what is the vac requirement for the doors to open?

I am also going to go through and check all my lines, I guess there is a possibility I hit something and or broke a T when I was doing the swap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, thats good and bad news but it's exactly the info I needed.

Good news is I don't have to deal with electric conversion, the bad news is I have to track down the issue. They worked great before the motor swap so it's something I did.
 

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68 SS/RS, 460 BB 4 speed, 3.73 Posi, new paint, motor mods , trans and diff assembly. 2" Drop
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Id almost be willing to bet a hose got cracked when everything was being moved around. Mine works on 12 (volts that is) sorry couldn't resist.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'll get into it this weekend, thanks for the feedback guys.
Could be worse, I did 50 miles yesterday on the "maiden voyage" and this and a squeaky belt when cold was the only things on my shakedown list.
 

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I'd say right around 9-10" is roughly the limit for vacuum production needed to operate the doors. Damaged lines is likely the cause of your issue as your new stated vacuum readings should be enough to operate them fine. Nothing wrong with the electric conversions though - Retro-Electro is a great kit and simplifies things massively IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Anyone have a good way to create vacuum to test them without starting the car?
I seriously doubt my neighbors enjoy hearing my new 467 BB rumbling in the garage as much as I do :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Possibly. But even when they were working correctly I couldn't get them to move with a hand pump.
Are you saying you are able to?
 

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Check the AIM, I think you will find a check valve in the rubber hose to the vacuum tank which should maintain the vacuum. A bad check valve, cracked hose, bad actuator, bad light switch, or incorrect hose routing can prevent the system from working. They made electric vacuum pumps for diesel trucks that you could add if needed, but I don't believe that is your problem. Just a guess.
 

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One of my RS cars has the same issue, they need the original system renewed, but since I drive it maybe 5 times a year with headlights on, I just open by hand, has been that way for 20 years. The other 2, one original and one with electric conversion works fine with 12 lb. Check your hoses and if the actuators are leaking. LOL
 

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If you can't get vacuum with that hand pump you have leaks or you just aren't pumping long enough to build a vacuum on the accumulator and the rest of the system. Maybe test each part of the system with the pump for leaks to narrow it down. I'd try first to just pull vacuum on each motor, then on the accumulator and my way back.
 

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Think Vacuum. Steal the wife's vacuum cleaner and duct tape a small hose in the end of the large hose or crevasse attachment. You can also put a tee in the added hose for a gauge. Your shop vacuum will also work. You can control the amount of vacuum by leaving a hole open you can plug with your finger. Another option is to use compressed air to operate the system. You will have to remove the check valves or reverse them. I think there is one in the line to the vacuum reservoir. Carefully regulate the air pressure to say 5 psi. This will also open up any cracked hoses or other cracks making it easier to find the problem.
 
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