Team Camaro Tech banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Guys, I installed console guages & tach in my 69 z,used the aftermarket conversion harness, and I have an amp guage that is going off the dial,I am not great at electrical problems, but I have retraced the wiring and the grounds, and they seem right. Alternater checks out, I replaced the horn relay, because my key minder also stays on without the key in. I had another voltage reg. on the shelf, which worked when I removed it from another car, and put it on. no luck. I did remove the column to repaint it and am going back tonight to remove the ignition switch and scratch the paint on the column, because I am running out of clues. On my other car, which has a one wire alt. I had to use a jumper wire between the two amp guage leads or the car wouldn't start. This car starts fine and runs fine, but the headlights surge at high rpm. The headlight load does slow the amp guage down, but it still works the whole guage instead of just both sides of O. got any ideas. Thanks, Gary
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
500 Posts
One of the amp gauge wires must be connected to the battery + and nothing else. The other amp gauge wire gets connected to the charge wire from the alternator and the wire that feeds the fuseblock. If you pull the headlights on with the car off and the gauge goes toward the charge side, the amp gauge wires are reversed.

------------------
'69 RS Camaro
355 5-speed 4.11
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 1 2RUN:
One of the amp gauge wires must be connected to the battery + and nothing else. The other amp gauge wire gets connected to the charge wire from the alternator and the wire that feeds the fuseblock. If you pull the headlights on with the car off and the gauge goes toward the charge side, the amp gauge wires are reversed.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Thanks for getting back on this. I already tried that as well as a few other things and now, the gauge is buried to the positive side but does move down slightly when I hit the lights. I am going to replace the guage itself with another one I have, just to check it out. The new gauge may be faulty. I am now wondering if I a have bad connection in the fuse block where I installed the wires. I will check the leads at the guage when I replace it. I'll let you know, thanks again, Gary
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,817 Posts
I see very little movement on my gauge. I get maybe one hash mark movement to the left of '0' when I put my headlights on. What is typical movement if all is working as designed?

------------------
Rick Dorion
69 RS Conv,355,Autogear M22,4.10's and I don't worry about stone chips ( yet ).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,513 Posts
That's about all I get. I get maybe 2 has marks of movement to the right immediately after starting the car, then the needle drops to about one hashmark to the right of 0 after about a minute. If I turn on the lights it drops to about a 1/2 hashmark to the right of 0. I have a 61 Amp A/C alternator.

If the car isn't running I get about 1 hashmark of movement to the left of 0 when I turn the lights on. Each hash mark is worth about 8 to 10 amps of current. (assuming your wiring is still the same as it was when the car was built)

Remember the Ampmeter is actually measuring the current flowing to or from the battery through the number 12 wire between the positive battery terminal and the main wiring terminal on the horn relay. It does not indicate total output from the alternator.

------------------
Mark Canning
1969 Indy Pace Car
350/300HP RPO Z11
My 69 L48 - 350/300HP Engine
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,817 Posts
Mine BARELY moves to the right at all. This is with the stock wiring harness and a one wire alternator. I feel I should be seeing more discernible movement. Is there something I can verify/check?

------------------
Rick Dorion
69 RS Conv,355,Autogear M22,4.10's and I don't worry about stone chips ( yet ).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by RickD:
Mine BARELY moves to the right at all. This is with the stock wiring harness and a one wire alternator. I feel I should be seeing more discernible movement. Is there something I can verify/check?

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>Thanks for all the feedback. It looks like it may be another "better than original" factory repro failure. I hooked up another guage, from an original 69 console that I had, and it seems to work fine, although I am not getting that crisp, quick one to two hash mark jump one way or the other when I hit the lights or brakes, but more of a soft and slow movement more like an oil pressure gauge, but that is with the guage just connected to the wire and not mounted in the unit yet. I'll get to that today and see if that changes anything once it's grounded in place. I just spent two weeks troubleshooting this problem. Just didn't expect a brand new part to be the problem. I really appreciate all the help. THANKS, Gary
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,513 Posts
There is no ground on the Ammeter. It's just a millivolt meter. It's span is 1 volt dc and the sensing range is essentially -0.5 to 0.5 volts.

Make sure the needle isn't rubbing on the face plate of the gauge, or on the plastic cover when it's installed in the console.

------------------
Mark Canning
1969 Indy Pace Car
350/300HP RPO Z11
My 69 L48 - 350/300HP Engine
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,817 Posts
Hmm. It's a new repro. The needle moved to the right when I had it wired backwards! I know my system charges. I just don't understand why there's no 'charge' indication, especially when starting. All I get is one or two hash mark movements to the left when I turn on headlights, etc.

------------------
Rick Dorion
69 RS Conv,355,Autogear M22,4.10's and I don't worry about stone chips ( yet ).
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top