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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Now that the back end is back together, it's time to do the front.
Here's what it looked like. Not bad except for the "poor taste" rustoleum metalic blue paint and drum brakes.

Brakes stripped off, steering arm and tie rod off, took 3-4 raps with a hammer to pop the ball joints.

I did end up using a spring compressor, needed another inch to get the tension off the springs. I left the shocks in untill the tension was off just in case.

And here she is all bare.

Parts is parts

She'll go back together with Global West lower arm (thanks Mike!) SC&C adjustable uppers, I think I'll paint the spindles and steering arms a proper semi gloss black this time, lmao. Will re-use the springs, shocks, upper ball joint, and sway bar. The sway bar will get new upper brackets that will fit better and hopefully allow easier movement.

Plan here is to fix my camber situation with the adjustable upper arms, and get much free-er movement with the delrin control arm bushings.

Almost forgot to mention, there will be a set of Wilwood 12.2" 4 piston front brakes to match the rears!

If anyone can use the control arms, gimme a shout. They got good poly bushings in em. Lower joints are good, I'm taking the uppers off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Picture of camber before?
Ask and you shall recieve. For those who missed my forst post on this topic, I initially (6 years ago, after rebuilding the front suspension and ding the g/s mod) had it aligned for 3 1/2 caster, 1 degree neg camber. Toe should have been minimal but I have my doubts. 3.5 caster was all he could get, with vitually no shims at all.

Here's a near head on pic, the tire tilting inward is pretty obvious

Here's a closeup of the pass side tire from the same pic

and here's what a $200 Goodyear Eagle F1 GSD3 looks like after a few thousand miles with that much camber. Note the tread is gone on the right side of the tire. And that's the good one, the other is buried pretty deep, but it's down to cord! :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
For some reason I just don't seem to be into it today...
I did manage to get under there and clean up the front third of the underside of the car. Seems I have a couple of oil leaks to chase, lol... Also managed to get the spindles and steering arms cleaned and painted.

My new upper a-arms take 1/2" bolts, so I'll have to drill those out. Will manage to smear some por15 on those areaqs that need a hit. Looks like I need new boots for my upper ball joints and a few other small things.

Sure would like to put my brakes together, but it might be easier once the spindles are back on the car.

Think I'll light a fire and watch the race with my wife for awhile. This is one depressing day, 32 degrees, cloudy, and it ain't sure if it's raining or snowing! hmmm, looked out the window, it snowing snowflakes the size of golfballs!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I may have gotten what I needed with offset upper shafts.
I "wanted" to change all that stuff!
The car was aligned 6 years ago when I rebuilt the front suspension the first time, and again 3 years ago when I changed springs, both times to the same specs. It's hard to remember how many "fewer shims" it took the second time... I don't find it hard to believe that my subframe is "sagging inwards" and my actual camber last summer may have been 2 degrees. Can anyone's calibrated eyeball tell from the pics?
Last summer was "high mileage" With the new 383 and tko, she's a joy to drive, and drive her I did, over 6000 miles worth.

One thing I know for sure. With those SC&C adjustable upper ams, it could fold in half and I'd still be able to control the camber.
 

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I think you had more than 1* neg camber, Jim. I ran that alignment for years with no significant wear. I too have the SC&C uppers and can't wait to see how the car nehaves this year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
well. I been kinda stalled for the last few days. The lower arms were shipped yesterday, but won't be here til monday. I thought about building up the spindles, but decided that would be much better done with them on the car, some of those bolts need 100 lbs of torque, and I don't want to scratch the paint. I did manage to polish up the new master. I still haven't caved and ordered the rest of the SS lines... Nutting wrong with the ones that are on there, 'cept they ain't shiny.

I did layout the front brake parts on the bench, so here's some serious brake porn. Other than the iron disks, I can't believe how lite this wilwood stuff is, and those polished alluminum hubs are too gorgeous to hide. This is gonna be one FINE lookin front end.


 

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Jim that thing is gonna be a brand new car when you are done. You are much more agressive at that stuff than me. Wish I had that knowledge and guts to tear into it. :beers: on me
 

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Now we're see Jim spending his time shinin' stuff all day Saturday just to get it dirty on Sunday. Looks good, JimM.

I can relate about Goodyear F1's. We had a 91 300ZX TT with them on all four corners and each front tire lasted 20K. And I can't fault the car, it was designed with 9* caster and 1.5* camber.

The engineers figured if the car is designed to do 160 mph, and it does according to other owners, the engrs & driver, want the car to track straight, hence, 9* caster. and it corners very well with 1.5* camber. So I at least wanted to correct the camber, to 0.25-0.50*, I bought a pair of Stllen adjustable upper C/arms. They are only adjustable in one direction, not triangulated. At max adjustment, it brought one wheel to 0.75* & the other to 0.65*. But I also lost 2* of caster, like I said uni-adjustable. This give the F1'a another 6K miles. Then I bought a cheaper tire from Tread Qtrs, 2/$180, and got 30K plus more, I sold the car.

So story is, turning is what kills a tire. More caster, more load on the inside tread. This is why OE specs had maybe 1*-1.5* caster, the tire was flat almost going through the turn. The wider the tire, the more friction, both rolling and turning. Everything is a trade-off. Life's too short, drive it like you stole it!
 

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My '00 rustang GT daily driver destroys the outside edge of the front tires at the factory 3.5deg caster / -1deg camber. Need to get it up to about 6deg caster for my normal driving habits from what I've read.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Here's some Saturday morning suspension porn!

Spindles, SC&C adjustable uppers, & Wilwood rotors ready to go on.

Scored these from a member who didn't need them, you don't want to know how little I paid THANKS!!!!


And a couple of pics of the drivers side together. Time to make lunch, finish the pinewood derby car, etc etc, hope to get some more garage time someday!
 

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Jim,

I am where you were in the first pics. Only problem I ran into was I had to cut the lower control arm bolts out. Now...waiting for parts and doing a little clean up. Also need to clean all the tools I used. Quick question. The part that the outer tie rods connect to ( this part also bolts to the backing plate ) is this needed when upgrading to disk brakes? If so, I already have them soaking in Marine Clean and then to a coat of POR-15. Looks good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I really really really hate working with coil springs. I haven't "LOST" one yet, but I'm waiting for "my turn."

Both sides now complete to the spindles. All digits and other appendages intact. Time to go to pinewood derby, then time for some brakes.
 
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