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Discussion Starter #1
I am about to throw the thing off a cliff...after replacing the trunk, floors, interior etc..I cannot get a solid brake pedal.

I installed a new booster, master cylinder, calipers, cylinders, all new hardware all the way around.

Got the system to bleed normally on all four corners, all the crappy fluid and bubbles gone.

With the car not running, pedal feels real spongy, with the car running pedal goes straight to the floor. Tried bleeding 3 times now (manual style) starting with pass rear, drivers rear, pass front, drivers front....three times with good results....but pedal still spongy.

I reused the plunger rod from the factory booster, bought the master cylinder at O'rielly Auto, as well as the calipers and cylinders.

The booster had an exceptionally long rod to the pedal, so I shortened about an 1"

with the car not running, you can pump and get a solid pedal, so clearly there is air in there somewhere?

Any good way to verify if the correct rod is being used? I cannot feel any play or anything like that?

Any feedback appreciated.
 

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Did you bench bleed the master before you installed it?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Actually...I just read some sites on bench bleeding...seems to be that level is pretty important to get all the air out of the MC....I will try it again with the MC off the car.

Hopefully thats it

If you remove the cover you can see plenty of fluid movement, and flow is good to the bleeders at the corners...but the MC just sounds funny (some strange gurgling noises when you release the pedal)

I will be travelling this next week so it will have to wait.
 

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I just did a 4 wheel disc conversion, the rear calipers were rotated (when installed)so that the bleeder was below the top of the piston chamber, (just slightly) but it was enough to trap air, so I had to remove them rotate them so the bleeder was up, rebleed the system , that was it.
 

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also, there are a couple types of master cylinders, some use the deep rod, others have a plug in them, when I put my kit in, I had to remove a 1" rod from the end of the master cylinder, the length of the pedal rod did not change, I don't think your pedal rod should have changed either.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I just did a 4 wheel disc conversion, the rear calipers were rotated (when installed)so that the bleeder was below the top of the piston chamber, (just slightly) but it was enough to trap air, so I had to remove them rotate them so the bleeder was up, rebleed the system , that was it.
Actually...on the drivers side the bleeder is below the piston....darn Advance Auto stuff. (I did save the original calipers)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well...replaced the caliper, bench bled the master cylinder again, re-bled the brakes again. The pedal was much firmer...but still very little braking power and pedal still goes to the floor.

The pedal is very firm not running, so I am inclined to think I have another problem besides air in the system.

I am getting so close to towing to a shop as I am sick of dealing with brakes...any other ideas are appreciated.

Replaced so far:
Master Cylinder
Calipers with all hardware and pads
Rotors
Hoses
Drums
Shoes
Cylinders
All new rear hardware
Brake Booster
 

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Discussion Starter #15
all reman brake master cylinder, water pumps, and carbs aren't worth the boxes they come in.....never have been in the 45 years I ran automotive shops J
Good thing I kept the boxes then!!...where do you get master cylinders, water pumps then? Rebuild yourself or do you have a recommended source?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Finally got it. Someone helped me who is much more experienced helped me realize that the replacement caliper was bad and letting air in, and I had the springs reversed on the rear drums...put on another caliper (#3 for those keeping track) and fixed the springs and the car stops beautifully now.

Also...skip99...thanks for the phone call and the bleeding advice...took a while just like you said but it worked like a charm!
 
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