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Finally saved up enough to do the disc brake conversion on my 67. I'm going with RSD's front brakes. I'm also getting their brake lines for it. Along with that, since I'm in there, I'm putting tubular upper control arms and coil over shocks. Both from QA1. In addition, I'm going to do the Guldstrand mod.

Any tips from anyone that's done any of the above that they may want to share would be appreciated. Also, any pitfalls I should be aware of would be helpful.


Thanks in advance.
 

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The one thing I would say is that you probably do not want to do the Guldstrand Mod while using the tubular control arms. I didn't have QA1 arms, mine were from Speedway but with the arms and the Guldstrand Mod I had too much negative camber and too much caster to even adjust. I had to relocate to the original holes to get it within specs. QA1's may be different but they have more built in negative camber and caster than stock.
 

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I agree on skipping the Gulstrand mod here. Also DON'T UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES USE DROP SPINDLES. Use standard disc brake spindles.

Take your time. If you're adding a brake booster to non-powered brakes use the other hole on the peddle and throw away the return spring. Be sure to adjust the rod from the booster into the master properly so you just barely have drag. Get a cheap brake bleeder from Harbor Freight. It's not something you'll use all the time but it's really useful when you need it. Plan on an alignment immediately afterward. Call around because most alignment shops cannot align classic cars. Took me a long time to find one that did and did it well (pro-tip: ask the parts guys at your local auto parts store. They'll know who does it well). Make sure the soft lines to the calipers are clocked right on the frame end. No twists at all or your brakes won't release properly.

Oh and DON'T USE DROP SPINDLES. Might have forgotten that one.
 
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Maybe save a buck using drum spindles and cut off 0.610" on top anchor boss?
Or use caliper mounting bracket and mark off boss as caliper bracket uses the same lower hole? Then cut upper boss.

Yes, NO lowering spindles
 

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I agree on skipping the Gulstrand mod here. Also DON'T UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES USE DROP SPINDLES. Use standard disc brake spindles.

Take your time. If you're adding a brake booster to non-powered brakes use the other hole on the peddle and throw away the return spring. Be sure to adjust the rod from the booster into the master properly so you just barely have drag. Get a cheap brake bleeder from Harbor Freight. It's not something you'll use all the time but it's really useful when you need it. Plan on an alignment immediately afterward. Call around because most alignment shops cannot align classic cars. Took me a long time to find one that did and did it well (pro-tip: ask the parts guys at your local auto parts store. They'll know who does it well). Make sure the soft lines to the calipers are clocked right on the frame end. No twists at all or your brakes won't release properly.

Oh and DON'T USE DROP SPINDLES. Might have forgotten that one.
Thanks. After reading David Pozzi's site, I was aware of the drop spindle problem.

Thanks all for the tips.
 

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Thanks. After reading David Pozzi's site, I was aware of the drop spindle problem.

Thanks all for the tips.
That was the very first project I did when I bought my car: power disc brakes up front and shoulder belts. My wife was 6 months pregnant at the time and I wasn't risking anything with her in the car.

One other thing: if you have the stock 15" wheels they won't clear the calipers. There were disc brake wheels back then that had a bit more room but they didn't come on drum brake cars.
 

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That was the very first project I did when I bought my car: power disc brakes up front and shoulder belts. My wife was 6 months pregnant at the time and I wasn't risking anything with her in the car.

One other thing: if you have the stock 15" wheels they won't clear the calipers. There were disc brake wheels back then that had a bit more room but they didn't come on drum brake cars.
My car actually has the wheels that will take the front disc brakes. YJ code rallys. Every bit of research I've done indicates they'll fit with disc brakes.

Thanks.
 

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Tubular arms will give you a 1-2" drop.....this with drop spindle equals :mad:

all the above looks good to my non-expert eyes :beers: (no GS mod :noway: )
 
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Also, not sure what kind of calipers you will be using, but if you are going with the single piston floating caliper design like the 69's use, beware of possible interference between the brake line mounting boss on the caliper and the bump stop welded to the subframe. This will show up with the wheel cut all the way. I have found that the Chevelle / Monte Carlo calipers have a lower mounting point for the hose and will clear. If you are using an aftermarket lower control arm that has provisions for a bump stop like 68/69 uses, you can cut the bump stop mounts off your subframe and avoid this issue.
 

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Tubular arms will give you a 1-2" drop.....this with drop spindle equals :mad:
Just for clarification, going to tubular upper CA's only will drop 1-2" while retaining the OEM stock lower CA's?
 

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Just for clarification, going to tubular upper CA's only will drop 1-2" while retaining the OEM stock lower CA's?
Spring cup in the lowers is deeper than stock arms. Uppers do nothing for height.
 

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The one thing I would say is that you probably do not want to do the Guldstrand Mod while using the tubular control arms. I didn't have QA1 arms, mine were from Speedway but with the arms and the Guldstrand Mod I had too much negative camber and too much caster to even adjust. I had to relocate to the original holes to get it within specs. QA1's may be different but they have more built in negative camber and caster than stock.
I've done the Guldstrand mod with Global West, Ride Tech, Hotchkis, Speed Tech upper A arms and had no issues. I do recommend doing the G mod if it works with your arms. First Gen Camaros don't have enough neg camber gain, - even if the Guldstrand mod is done, it isn't really enough and a .5" taller upper ball joint could be used with the G mod.
 
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