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Discussion Starter #1
If you have a stock 1st gen Camaro, howmany horses/torque can the stock car handle, without twisting the whole body or loose handling-quality of the car? So at which hp/tq level is reinforcement needed.

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David
I don't suffer from insanity.....I enjoy every minute of it!
'67 & '68 camaro SS (1:18)
'69 camaro RS/SS (1:18)
'70 chevelle SS blown (1:18)
'32 deuce coupe (1:18)
only $1800 away from a '67 RS (1:1)
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Just my opinion here, but, I would say that if you plan on racing it regardless of power level it would be a good idea to beef it up a little. These cars are 32+ year old unibody cars and when they were new it was questionable whether they could hold up to long term abuse - even with the factory engines.

A good set of bolt in subframe connectors and solid body mounts are the first step to a stiffer chassis IMO. They will have other benefits besides making the structure stronger. You will get more consistent, straighter launches and it will handle better on the streets.

Hope this helps.

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68 Camaro, 383 small block with TH350 trans. 11.98's at 111mph and never trailered.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well it is not my intention to race, but I would like to make 400+ hp. 90% cruising and 10% letting the horses loose at the traffic-lights. (when I have one....first I have to finish my MSc course according to my mom&dad, cause they know where the camaro has to sleep, yes, their garage!). But those subframe connectors and solid body mounts are a good idea.... thanks.

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David
I don't suffer from insanity.....I enjoy every minute of it!
'67 & '68 camaro SS (1:18)
'69 camaro RS/SS (1:18)
'70 chevelle SS blown (1:18)
'32 deuce coupe (1:18)
only $1800 away from a '67 RS (1:1)
Pics http://hobbystage.net/camaro/camaro_crew
http://hobbystage.net/camaro/dl
 

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I agree that any unibody car can benefit from subframe connectors and some solid body mounts, even if you aren't racing it. With a high powered motor though, these things become more important. Also be sure that your suspension and brakes are in good solid condition so that you can control the power of the engine.
 

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i had a 302 in my 68 and i thought i could get away without reinforcing the frame, but needless to say, i was wrong. the car just came out of the body shop, and one trip to the track, just to see what it would do, and then, nice small buckles in the quarters. i went out and bought, bolt on frame conectors made by CE and that solved the problem.
you say you want to have 40hp, well my little 302 didn't have that and it buckled the quarters. i'd say from 300hp on up, just to be say, you'd need some reinforcing.
just my .02.
bruce
 

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Speaking of Subframe connectors, I have a question

I recently found out that the idiot who put the 1/4 panels on (prev owner) pop riveted them instead of welding the seam to the roof

I have yet to fix it, I dont race it, but my car makes around 300-320hp, It launches hard, I have traction bars which help the hop, but would bolt in connectors work well, I dont want to arch the floorboards with the weld ins...

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Chris's 67 RS/SS,can be seen at http://www.67rs.com
check out another site once in a while! http://www.fbodyconnection.com
 

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I agree with Eric-68. Any hot-dogging at all could ruin first gen. I recently twisted (slightly) a 69 327 4-speed car. The deck lid is no longer flush and I have gapotis in front of my passenger door. This 327 was the original engine with no mods...probably making 225 hp (was rated at 275 in 69) and it managed to do some damage after after some hot-dogging. Flange it up...you'll be sorry otherwise.
 

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Just go check the cracks (I'll bet they're already there) at the top on both windshield posts, maybe at the lower rear corner of the driver side rear window, and at the quarter seams to the roof. They show up especially nice on new paint jobs. Be sure to apply fresh wax frequently so the jagged lines are white against the paint.

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Scott
'69 400SB, Richmond 5-speed
www.geocities.com/sdenning1

[This message has been edited by RockyMtnRacer (edited 03-04-2002).]
 

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chris,
the bolt on connectors that i bought, for the 68, worked great. they we made by Comp Engineering. even if you want, you could always get them welded in. i had no problems installing them. if i recall, all that was needed was a wrench, sockets and a drill. done in no time and it's added insurance.
bruce
 

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Good info here. I am even more worried about this as I am putting a 385hp motor in a 67 convertible (th400 / 12bolt), which I would think would be more susceptible to flex.

Aside from the bolt-on subframe connectors and solid body mounts, should I be looking to reinforce the structure in any other ways?

Thanks!!
 

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There are some older posts in the archives about some serious homemade subframe connectors that convertible owners might look into. You run square steel tubing through the floor pan and weld the tubing to the A-frame and floor pan where you cut. The other end gets bolted to the top of the front leaf spring mounts, if I recall. This mod really stiffens up a Camaro chassis - way beyond what a bolt on set can do.

PDQ67 will definately know about this mod - he was in on the conversation and/or doing this mod to his 67 if I remember correctly.
 

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Rocky - I know what you mean. I was looking at my car the other day and the crack in the drivers side lower corner of the rear window is already coming back. I've driven the car a total of maybe 60 miles since I got it back from the body shop. I remember the painter showing me how he welded the cracks up.

Detroit Speed and Engineering has some new weld in connectors that look very good.
 

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Chris,

I believe that the single traction bar was stock on some '67 cars. It was intended to reduce the wheel hop caused by the non-staggered shocks.
 

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I have the Global West subframe connectors in my convertible. Check my link for pics.

Sleepy-69 is right. 6 or 7 passes at the strip and then I noticed my drivers side door lines f***ked up. And I had maybe 220 horse or so. Winding it up to 2 or 3000 grand and letting go will do this to your 30+ year-old car, regardless of power.

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68 Camaro ragtop, original 327, angle plug Camel humps, 202's, Performer, Holley 650 double pumper, Doug Thorley headers, 3-speed Saginaw, 3.08 posi, subframe connectors, Addco sway bar

http://hobbystage.net/camaro/cjkaram/
 

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ckaram, nice car but, I'm not real sure about how far down the sub-frame connecters hang, do all bolt ons look like that or just gw? I want to put on a set on my convertable but I'm not real keen on it hanging down that low, I don't really want to cut the floor eather. is there any other choice?
 

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Chris,

Jegs has a set of Jegster subframe connectors
that are the bolt in type. They also can be welded for added insurance.

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Rick
68/RS
Restoration in Progress...
 

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Thanks Speedy.

When I first saw them mounted, I wasn't wild about the fact that I could see the "daylight" above the connector from the side view. But that's the price you'll pay for the connector to "snake" around the center crossmember since you don't want to cut through it and the floor.

I've had no clearance problems whatsoever, and the car just tightened way up. After my first cruise in the car with them in, I forgot all about my initial reaction.


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68 Camaro ragtop, original 327, angle plug Camel humps, 202's, Performer, Holley 650 double pumper, Doug Thorley headers, 3-speed Saginaw, 3.08 posi, subframe connectors, Addco sway bar

http://hobbystage.net/camaro/cjkaram/
 

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I heard only good things about those Global West units, they are a seperate design for convertibles and coupes. Anyway a good 6 or 8 point roll bar really stiffens things up too.
 

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The Cpmpetition Engineering bolt on connectors are pretty close to the floor pan and are barely noticable and only if you know what your looking for.
 
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