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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am fixing to pull my powerglide and put in a M21. (figured if I was going to go through the trouble might as well put what I want in)
My question is I don't know anyone with a standard 1st gen. Does anyone know of a good book with linkage illistrations so I know where to drill the hole in the fire wall and frame mount. Are if anyone has pictures of theirs could you post them.

Thanks any help is very welcome
Shane
 

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Shane

The holes should already be there. It's just a matter of getting the parts and bolting them up. If your car was a column auto, you will have to cut a hole in the tunnel for the shifter.

Mark
 

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Get an assembly manual to help you out. Basically it's all just a bolt on, unless you have the column shift as mentioned above. The cross member and drive shaft are the same as the powerglides'. You do need to drill holes for the tach and new speedo cable route. There are dimples in the firewall, the manual will help you find them as well.
 

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I converted my 67 from a PG to a manual and after looking at the costs of buying a Muncie, ended going with a Tremec. May want to go with a modern transmission versus a late 60s manual. Lots of articles on the site.

I'm not saying putting in an M21 is a bad choice, just suggesting you research Tremecs and Richmonds as well as the Muncie before you make your choice.

Mark M.
 

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Several companys offer complete conversion kits with everything you need, linkage, zbar the whole works. D&R Classic Automotive, Classic Industries, Ricks First Generation and probably others.

------------------
1969 Camaro 350 & 1969 Impala SS 427/ 4-speed (restored)
 

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Sweems, I have most of the parts you'll need to do the swap. Aluminum bell housing, crossmember,driveshaft and clutch linkage that came from a 68 camaro. I went to t-400. Let me know if you're interested.
 

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the holes should be there. I really didn't make any changes that weren't bolt on. m-21 is a good tranny, but you will have to cut the tunnel a bit to fit the shifter, unless you plan on shelling out 200 bucks for the shifter that fits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Big Sky 68Z28,
I would be intrested in some parts I'll email you and see what we can work out. Maybe with what I have and what I need with what HawaiianCamaro needs both of us could get going with what you have. I hope that makes since.

Thanks
Shane
 

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Mine was converted last summer. It cost me two grand. Within my circle of friends, the job has been done before, however a local shop said he'd do the job for three hunderd bucks. I was more interested in driving my car so they did it.

Including new linkage, Z-bar, a reworked M21, heavy duty Centerforce, Bell housing and the correct Hurst Super shifter, ($$$yikes$$$) it hit right at 17 something in parts.

Side bar: Deb said she'd buy me the Super Shifter for my birthday and handed me 250 dollars. I told her when she drove she could only use first and second gear.

The Hurst super shifter will fit with no mods. It will hit on the bottom when you bang gears but not badly. The console needs to move back by a quarter or three eights of an inch.

Forte Performance is located in Waltham Mass. The cost for a Tremec 5 speed with every thing you'll need is $1902.00. This has everything you'll need and is a perfect swap for the M21. This is a very nice option *if* you are considering a Classic Industry catalog M21 at 12 hunderd bucks. For a handful more you could be running a Tremec. If you have access to a nice M21 for 500-700 dollars, the Tremec doesn't look attractive anynmore.


Rick-O



[This message has been edited by Scoop69RS-SS (edited 02-22-2001).]
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Big Sky 68Z28,
I tried your e-mail address and it came back bad so I just say it here. I have the pedals and the rod that goes through the floor. I know I have the trans maybe a shifter and maybe the bellhousing I want know about the bellhouseing till Sat. basiclly the trans is free because the guy wants my powerglide. If you could give me a price on just the linkage I know I will need that. The bellhousing I wont know for a couple of days.

Thanks
Shane
 

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shane

Don't forget the ball stud and the plate that attaches to the frame.

Mark

KZ and Danny... yes, I said ball stud.


[This message has been edited by mbrekke (edited 02-22-2001).]
 

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Sweems, Give me a few to find all the odds and ends. I moved since the swap and most everything is still boxed up. I haven't found the frame bracket , cross shaft or pivot ball. I do have the bell housing, cross member and complete driveline. I fixed my e-mail. It was a old address and I forgot to change it. I'll post here on what I can find. Lloyd
 

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If you buy the competition plus shifter instead of the super shifter, you dont have to move the console at all. I just did mine three weeks ago. Mount the shifter on the trans and install it. Then use a punch and follow the shifter up and punch the tunnel. Drill a hole and then line up the rubber boot with the hole and mark a 2x3 hole and cut out tunnel. Install console and recheck hole. Cut the hole again to accomodate the shifer plate tunnel on the console. Worked perfect for me. Easy as pie!



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Jay
69 SS-350 4-speed
Hotchkis suspension
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
thanks Big Sky 68Z28 and everyone else. I guess I should have said earlier, I don't have a console and I was looking at putting the hurst indy shifter on it because of the short stick and the short throw, I think it is 7-3/4" tall, does anyone have the comp shifter to know how tall it are is the comp shifter worth the extra $125.

Thanks
Shane
 
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