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Discussion Starter #1
Installed Autometer gauges yesterday. Volt meter is bouncing around between 16 & 18 volts. I know alternator, battery and regulator are good. What else could be the problem? Could not possibly be in the way I wired it could it. Ground is hooked up to a good ground with the three other gauges and the voltage is coming from the ignition blade on fuse block. Basically daisy chained from one gauge to the next for ground and power. Why is the voltmeter reading so high?
 

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First thing I'd do would be to test your charging voltage at the battery (engine running)with a trusted multi-meter. You should be reading ~14 volts, give or take a tenth or two. If the new gauge is correct, then you need to fix your charging sys, as 16-18 volts is dangerous.

If the multimeter confirms 14ish volts at the battery, hook the new gauge to the battery with jumper wires (engine running) and see what it reads there. If it's still reading 16-18 volts, I'd say faulty gauge. If it reads 14, then there's a problem in your wiring somewhere - perhaps a loose connection or faulty ground.

W/O knowing a ton about electrical stuff - a little is dangerous! - that's what I'd do.

Question - is your voltage regulator grounded to the core support? An ungrounded VR can overcharge the batt.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Regulator is grounded to support. Grounds are good and I have 14 volts at the battery when running. With the ign. on but car not running gauge reads around 12 volts on ce I start the car it jumps to 16-18 volts. I am going to run a new secondary grond now to see if anything changes.
 

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I had the same problem. Autometer told me to leave the S terminal empty, & connect both the signal wire & ignition wire to the I terminal. Solved my problem. Scott
 

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thats interesting, my new Autometer voltmeter has only two terminals - a ground and an "ignition". There is no "S" terminal. wonder it they changed design?

Where is the signal wire coming from?

 

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I have the S terminal, but its not being used. I am also running LS1, not sure if the alt design is the reason. Troubleshooting wiring problems is not my strong point...
Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #7
For kicks I went out and bought a voltage regulator, I had a Delco one in there, bought what the shop had a cheap Standard Motor Product. Half the weight of the Delco. Anyway, put it in and now my voltage reads 15 volts, closer but think it is still high. Don't know what else to try other than switching out the gauge.
 

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The new VR is an electronic one and right after starting, the charging voltage is always high and lowers itself as the battery gets warmer in temperature from being recharged.
Check charging voltage after a half hour of street driving and you will probably find it reduced to around 14 volts.
 

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The new VR is an electronic one and right after starting, the charging voltage is always high and lowers itself as the battery gets warmer in temperature from being recharged.
Check charging voltage after a half hour of street driving and you will probably find it reduced to around 14 volts.
Thanks good to know. It is the new VR, is the fact that it is electronic better? Should I source the older style?
 

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The new VR should provide a higher charging voltage at idle than the older one, meaning brighter headlights at idle.
Check the alternator stamping for the max alt amperage out. the stamp would be next to the adjustment pinch bolt.
You might have a '37A' alt, max 37 amps at full field voltage. Alt will only output its design current.
You might have to swap in a 55A alt or a 63A from an Olds or Buick, the more electrical options installed, the higher rating of alternator.
No harm, no foul with 37A and cheaper, its already there.
 
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