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Discussion Starter #1
I'm going to try to keep this as short & sweet as possible:

I have a battery drain

I have isolated it to the live wire that goes from the the horn relay to the power window relay behind the drivers kick panel (wire is orange with a black stripe)

I have a test light hooked up between the negative battery cable & post to see when the battery is being drained or not.

When I plug the orange wire with a black stripe into the power window relay the test goes "on" indicating a drain, when I unplug it, the test light goes "out".

I replaced the original 40 year old relay with a "new" modern 3 post relay I've had sitting around the garage for a number of years

With the "new" relay in place: I plug the orange wire with the black stripe in & the test light, lights up again, indicating a drain. :(

Do you think that both the relays (by coincidence) are bad????? These relays are not ez to find. I don't even remember when, were, or how I purchased the "new spare" relay a few years back.

Thanks for any input.
 

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I'm guessing it goes beyond the relay. I've never seen a power window wiring diagram tho, and can't even guess what the relay would be used for or how the load side would tie in...

Do your windows all work?
Do they work with the key off, or only in on and accessory?

Perhaps the accessory circuit turn on the relay, allowing power from that orange wire thru the load side of the relay to the window switches and motors?

Anyone have a power window schematic?

Teresa @ aaw, you out there, bet you got one?

If you unbolt the relay from the body (with the connector on) does the test light go out?
If it does, I'd say bad relay.
If it don't, I'm thinking make a lil tool to release the individual terminals from the housing, a paper clip bent out and ground flat on the end will do it, and remove the other wires one at a time and see if that effects he draw. Be sure to bend the lil tabs on the terminals back out so they lock in when you put em back.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks JimM,
I'll try TWO of your suggestions because I've already done the other things.
I have a power window schematic, its in the "Body by Fisher" service manual.
This relay is a "3 post relay" & has 3 wires that plug into it via one plug:
1) Orange with a black stripe (is always hot) comes straight from the horn relay to the "power top breaker fuse" next to the power break booster on the firewall. I have definitely confirmed that it should ALWAYS be "a live wire" whether the key is in the ignition or not.
2) Pink wire - goes straight to the ignition switch - should be dead until the key is turned on - mine works correctly - windows don't function without key turned. I've even unplugged the pink wire from the back of the ignition switch to see if the the drain would stop - no help.
3) Red with white stripe - this wire is ALSO DEAD until the key is turned on - this wire eventually splits into four (4) other roads - each leads to a power window motor. I've unplugged the two motors on the the passenger's side to see if the drain would go away - no luck - that leaves the other two motors on the drivers side to unplug. I really don't think one of the motors is causing the drain though. The red wire with the white stripe doesn't show any signs of live with Key turned off. I've also unplugged each power window switch from the interior - no luck.

I'm going to try un-screwing the relay from the pillar while its plugged in & see if the drain goes away when the relay looses its ground.
If that doesn't work I'm going try removing the other 2 wires - one at a time - out of the plug on the relay.

Whenever I find what is causes this drain, I'm going to post it on this site for ARCHIVES sake. Someone might have the same problem someday.
 

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Use your DMM and measure ohms from the org/blk terminal to relay case with the connector unplugged. If there is some resistance, above 200 ohms, I would think the pink wire would connect this terminal as you are reading coil resistance. The the other two terminals are the power wires for the motors, power line to power load.

Presently, the org/blk wire is closing the relay. The pink wire is supplying power for the motors through the relay. Still showing you the windows don't work until the key is ON.
 
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