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Discussion Starter #1
Tried to put a harmonic balancer on today. I got it started fine with a longer bolt. I can tighten it down to within about 3/8 of an inch, but no further. I had heard a trick was to use some anti-seize on the shaft, which I did. I used an impact with plenty of pressure and still it hung. Using a ratchet just turns the engine. I don't want to damage the crank by using a hammer or too much pressure. Anyone know of any good tricks?
 

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In general it's not a good idea to use the damper bolt to press on the damper. You run the real risk of stripping the crankshaft threads, especially with an impact wrench.

There are tools available that will press on the damper, or you can be cheap like me and use a piece of all-thread and three nuts. Double nut at one end to backdrive, and use the third nut and some thick washers to drive the balancer on.

Be sure the key is properly seated in the keyway.

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Click here to see see my car and hear 5-speeds. http://www.geocities.com/casanoc
 

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Try heating the balancer before you put it on, the metal will expand and it will slide on easier.
Stephen

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67 RS/SS 350 700R4
69 SS clone unfinished
72 454 Weekend Racer
 

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I know on my 383, I have to slightly sand the crank snout, to get some of the burrs off it. If it is a new or aftermarket crank and/or balancer, sometimes the same thing needs to be done, since it is a one size fits all type deal.

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Mark

1992 Firebird 355/Six Speed
1991 RS 350 / 700-R4
1987 Toyota Pickup 383 / 500 + HP 10.963 @ 119.95 Slicks / 11.997 @ 114.23 Radials
http://personal.lig.bellsouth.net/~racer383/
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I think that maybe part of the problem, Mark. New crate with stock balancer, and I didn't check for burrs. I think when I painted it, may have gotten a little paint on the inside too.

Also, what tool exactly are you referring to, Carl? The only one I've seen is one made by Mr. Gasket. Its simply a longer bolt with the end half of it threaded the right size for the crank snout and the other half is alot larger diameter for a larger nut - not that different from what I'm doing now. It costs $50 and no one rents it!
thanks all!
 

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Englemac,

The difference between using a balancer installer and using a long bolt to pull the balancer on is that the puller protects the threads in the crank; it is threaded into the crank and doesn't turn. The threads getting the wear are on the tool itself instead of using the crank threads to pull with. The tool is about $45. as you said, but a good investment. Someone should rent the tool though.

Jody
 

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My snout threads are pretty stripped on my 383. I went to Napa and bought a 3 foot piece of threaded rod. The snout has a lot more threads than your balance bolt will ever use. I threaded the rod in to the crank, put the balancer on, put the balancer washer on and then a nut. Kind of a poor mans installer. Tighten the nut and on goes the balancer. In my case, I cut the rod off flush with the nut when I was finished and hit it with a tack weld.

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Mark

1992 Firebird 355/Six Speed
1991 RS 350 / 700-R4
1987 Toyota Pickup 383 / 500 + HP 10.963 @ 119.95 Slicks / 11.997 @ 114.23 Radials
http://personal.lig.bellsouth.net/~racer383/
 

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Sometimes helps to tap on the balance with a hammer as you pull it on. Seems help keep it staight or something. Just peck it near the center around in circle.Don't get carried away as the crank is resting on the thrust/main bearing in the rear.
 

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Right on!!

7/16" x 4"/5" long fine thread for small block.

1/2" x 4"/5" long fine thread for big block.

Just buy some grade 8 fine threaded bolts that long and use the needed dies to lengthen the threads and get needed washers and nuts and grease and do your thing. I got one of each in my tool box.. pdq67
 

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The regular installer has an assortment of double ended adaptors that fit the tool, so it will do many different engines. The insaller bolt is about 5/8 fine thread, on the end it has a place to back it up using a 1/2 inch wrench, and the installer nut takes about a 15/16 inch wrench. The big advantage to using a regular installer is that where you use a washer on the bolt set up, it has a flat ball bearing, like an ac clutch installer.

If you tap on the balancer it is best to use a brass drift punch. Also be careful tapping around the center, because the lip on the back of the pullies goes in there as a dowel to hold them on center.

Larry
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks guys, I went with the threaded rod from NAPA yesterday, sanded the burrs, used some grease - and no problem! Hopefully I can move on to actually getting the enigne in today. Thanks again, for all the help
You guys rule!
 

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englemac,

Just rolled my neighbors cherry picker down the street and into my garage. Hope it's warmer in the next few days up here in cental MO then it is today. It's probably warmer in ARK, you're lucky. pdq67
 

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[This message has been edited by lola68rag (edited 07-12-2001).]
 

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i just installed a balancer on a 327 w/ the all-thread method Carl mentioned above..my question is, how do i know when it's on all the way? the engine is out of the car and after tightening for a while the crank would just turn when i cranked down on the nut. is there a certain distance the back of the balancer should sit from the timing cover?
 

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Assuming it pulled down smoothly as you installed it, when it won't go on any further, chances are it's on all the way. You'll know for sure when you put your crank and water pump pulleys on - if they line up, you're in business. These are the kind of things where it pays to either take a measurement before you take something apart, or make a cardboard gage that just fits between the parts before you take them apart.

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JohnZ
'69 Z28 Fathom Green
 
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