[jogasz28]

I worked on the teardown of our '69's front suspension tonight. I used some 3/8" all-thread with plates, washers & nuts where the shock mounts as a safety in case the ball joint/spring somehow lets go.
I wire brushed all 4 ball joint cotter pins & nuts. Soaked them liberally with 'Blaster. They have been on there a LONG time and the cotter pins are rusted to the bolt. I got the first cotter pin out and when I tried to loosen the nut, it turned about 1 turn and then the ball joint bolt also started loosening. I tried working it loose with more 'Blaster and tightening and loosening it, but no luck.
I guess I could cut the spring with a torch, but then I wouldn't have it's pressure to help me loosen the ball joint. If I do this, could I then just rent a tool to remove the ball joints without the springs help?
Anybody have any suggestions?

 

[Everett#2390]

Set the jack under the lower control arm, oxy-acetylene the nut off, then, use a pickle fork to separate the joints from the spindle.

 

[jogasz28]

Set the jack under the lower control arm, oxy-acetylene the nut off, then, use a pickle fork to separate the joints from the spindle.

Sub frame is off the car.
Does that make a difference?

 

[JimM]

torching or grinding it is the only way I can think of, but if the joint is spinning in the spindle, he ain't gonna need no pickle fork!

 

[scblucam]

Yes it does because you have no weight to compress the spring. Rent a spring compressor to remove the tension. Otherwise with the allthread it should retain the spring. I have done it myself in younger days by leaving the shock in place but cannot advocate that here. If you ever do it again remove the suspension before the subframe.

 

[novaderrik]

torch the spring into pieces to get rid of the spring tension and use a chisel or nut splitter on the ball joint nuts.
this way, you don't' accidentally melt the spindle when melting off the nuts.

 

[jogasz28]

So far so good.
We used the cutting torch to do 2 cuts in each spring to relieve all spring tension. We used the 3/8" all-thread thru each as a safety measure and it worked great. We got all 4 ball joint nuts off. The nut that was stuck and turning the ball joint bolt came right off after the spring tension was relieved. Go figure. Maybe it was from soaking all night with Blaster on it. One other nut also turned it's ball joint bolt. My Son used the cut-off wheel to cut straight down along the threads and he was able to pop off the rest of it with a flat bladed screwdriver. We ground off all the upper ball joint rivets. But now we can't tell where the rivet holes were originally. I'll have to look at the replacements when we get them, for their locations. I'm hoping once I use the ball joint tool to separate the upper ball joint, I'll be able to tap it up and tell where each rivet was.
Do the replacement ball joints come with bolts instead of rivets? This is no concours resto we're doing, bolts and nuts would seem easier.
As always, all opinions, suggestions, and replies are appreciated.
And thanks for all the help with this.

 

[Everett#2390]

New upper joints come with bolts, washers, and nuts. The joint installs from the top of the arm.

The lower joints are press fit into the control arm. A trip to the machine shop may be in order with new joints and do a swapout. Pay for the job once. However, most rental places and Pep Boys, & others do rent ball joint tools, if you want to try it at home.

 

[pdq67]

Boy, cutting torch, -- what a hassle to me..

I have just cranked on the b/j nuts about two threads and sheared through the cotter keys and then put my trusty small floorjack 90 degrees out from the centerline of the car, (smooth concrete floor), and raised her up and whacked the spindles good on both sides with my 3 pound Ford Tool and they popped right apart!! Top and then the bottom the second go around.....

And I did use a short length of chain bolted end to end as a spring retainer IF my jack let loose!!!

pdq67

PS., and I ALWAYS clocked my floorjacks wheels so they were straight so it would move SMOOTHLY in and out as I jacked it up and down too!!!!

 

[jogasz28]

Boy, cutting torch, -- what a hassle to me..

I have just cranked on the b/j nuts about two threads and sheared through the cotter keys and then put my trusty small floorjack 90 degrees out from the centerline of the car, (smooth concrete floor), and raised her up and whacked the spindles good on both sides with my 3 pound Ford Tool and they popped right apart!! Top and then the bottom the second go around.....

And I did use a short length of chain bolted end to end as a spring retainer IF my jack let loose!!!

pdq67

PS., and I ALWAYS clocked my floorjacks wheels so they were straight so it would move SMOOTHLY in and out as I jacked it up and down too!!!!

No hassle for me when I get to show my Son how to use the cutting torch and I explain all the safety considerations associated with using it.
But then that's the whole reason for doing this project.....quality time with my Son. We're setting no speed records and enjoying every minute.

 

[novaderrik]

a floor jack is kind of useless with the subframe off the car- unless you put a chain up from the front axle of the floor jack around the frame or something..

 

[68zproject]

"with my 3 pound Ford Tool" LOL. That there's funny that is. :yes:

 

[pdq67]

Jo,

Great w/ your Son!!

68,

I usually call it my "BM-FF" tool..............

But this time I didn't........

he, He!!

And right nova to chain the floorjack to a "body-less" S/F so you can still do it this way..

pdq67