The nut is currently loose and just catches the cotter pin if I tighten it to 12 Lbs. of torque it would be far past the pin. The new control arms are new from year one. Not impressed with them at all lower ones don't even have holes for bumpers.
The rubber bump stops were used in three different positions on 67, 68, and 69 Camaros. Two of those were on the lower A arm, 69 in front, 68 was to the rear of the spring, 67 was on a bracket attached to the frame and to the rear of the spring.
I had a variation of this problem with spindles from Rick's First Gen. The lower ball joint fit fine while the nut for the upper just barely reached the cotter pin drilling. I couldn't get the pin through so I safety wired it.
If the cotter key will not fit the nut, you need a taller castleated nut. Do not use a washer, Thats southern engineering and you dont need that. If the ball joint stud is going too far into the knuckle,, something may be wrong , remember that there is a taper on both.
As for the bumpers for upper arms,, they fit in frame , the lower fit on the arm on a 69. At least thats the way mine are.
I have spent so much time on making everything perfect the taller castleated nut would look best. I have my old lower control arms so I can use then as a reference in drilling the two holes for bumper. This is my first restoration so I guess assuming most new parts will fit correct was wrong. I had 143 new parts delivered last week so I will keep all the old stuff until the job finished. Thanks for the replies I hope to help others at some point.
You are correct about keeping all the old stuff until you are through, more times than any, the repro part will not be the same is some respects. Nothing wrong with using the old nut unless you can go down to a local GM parts dealership and ask for a factory nut.
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