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Discussion Starter #1
the battery cables on my 67 327 get quite hot when i turn over the engine.... the engine hasnt been run in a long while so i need it to turn over so i can diagnosis problems, but it will only make about half a solid revolution????? could the starter be the issue? the battery has good voltage im just kinda stumped :mad:
 

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Check both cables. If not enough juice is getting to the starter or there is not enough is getting back through the ground, then this could be the problem. A ground could be good but the supply of power could be hindered.
What kind of cables do you have going to the starter from the battery and from the battery to the engine block ?.
If it's a top post battery, pull the cable ends off, clean the posts and the cable ends and reattach and see what happens. Same with a side post and remove the bolt to clean inside the molded cable end (both sides and the bolt itself).
I've seen my share of battery cable ends (the 99 cent type) that have the bare stranded cable wire ends clamped inside of them and they corrode inside this clamped portion. I've also seen my share of molded ends go bad inside the insulation.
I would also see how well the ground cable is attached to the block (or alternator, exhaust stud, or wherever).

Jim
 

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Your cables could be getting hot for a couple of reasons. If you have a bad connection on either the positive or negative cables the one with the bad connection will get hot when trying to carry current while cranking the engine. Bad connections build resistance and resistance to current flow builds heat. You could also have a starter that is drawing excessive amount of current and that too could cause the cables to get hot. What do you call good battery voltage? I would make certain you have a FULLY charged battery and all good clean connections and ground paths. You could take a mulitmeter and ohm out the cables from point to point and find you circuit with the high resistance that way too. Does the engine turn over by ratchet and socket pretty easy or is it possible the engine has alot of surface rust on the cylinders causing it to drag excessively?...How long is quite some time?.....:beers:
 

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Does the engine turn over by ratchet and socket pretty easy or is it possible the engine has alot of surface rust on the cylinders causing it to drag excessively?...How long is quite some time?.....:beers:
Try this first. If you can't turn the engine with a breaker bar then the starter probably can't either. The instantaneous current draw when staring an engine can hit several hundred amps. Much more than a few seconds of trying to start and engine that won't turn will get the cable red hot.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i changed the connection on the negative terminal and upgraded the ground... the positive terminal and cable to starter is still factory... the engine hasnt been started in 20ish years so im trying to get it running but nothing seems to be "easy" >>> ive been told that the crank on a 67 327 should have a bolt exposed on the crank that i should be able to turn with a socket but i can find no such bolt... any advice??
 

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I think if it hasn't been started for 20+ years, there are probably other things that need to be done?...probably similar to first-time start procedures, driving oil pump for a period of time before starting, etc...other guys here are way more knowledgable than me, for certain.
Might want to post something in engines asking for advice on what should be done.
 

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Lots of good suggestions here - especially if the engine has not turned over in 20 years.
Remove the plugs and squirt in oil into the cylinders - rings are dry - needs lube!
PULL throttle to WOT position and leave it there for now.
Manually turn the enine by hand/wrench. Since there is no bolt, low HP engine, use Steiner's suggestion, or, pull off the flywheel inspection plate/cover, mark the flywheel/flexplate, and use a large 3/8 inch flat blade screwdriver to pry on the flywheel teeth one complete revolution minimum.

The cables are getting hot because of the current drawn - locked rotor. The worst test to perform on an electric motor for a length of time. Usually done in 5 second increments when performing locked rotor tests. a suggested, clean both ends of the cables.

Since you mentioned the one cable has a spring clamp, suggests it may be of original cable or dealer replacement from the same time frame. The cable itself is of too small wire gauge, 2 AWG, because of costs. Might replace both cables with 1 AWG.

Now getting back to the engine with WOT and plugs out. You can remove the distributor, chalk mark the rotor and vacuum advance on the engine, and/or take a picture of it for reference later, and use an oil primer to prelube the engine. Turn crankshaft 90° every 30 seconds to lube all rockers. The replace the dist to the referenced marks/picture taken. Replace plugs, close the throttle - ensure the return spring is hooked up, crank up the curb idle screw, use clean fesh gasoline, new filter, I'm sure you've checked the tank and have ran clean gas through the fuel lines up to the fuel pump and filled the bowls.....and have a fresh fully charged battery.

Timing light handy, fire extinguisher, tongue in left cheek and fingers crossed.........let it run for about 20-30 minutes just as if breaking in a new camshaft - lube the lifters.
 

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Yes, You might reach up with your finger and maybe use a flashlight or a 7/16-20 bolt and see if the end of the crankshaft is threaded.

If it is, buy the harmonic balancer bolt & washer and install. Or buy a Gr 8 7/16-20X2 inch long hex head bolt and an extra thick washer and torque to 55-60 ft/lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
i have a pic of the pulley with the three bolts but i cant seem to load the attachment bc file is to big???
Everett#2390 do you happen to know a model number or size of an oil primer that i can use?? thanks
 

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The flow of electrons through a wire create heat due to resistance....more resistance = more heat.
Be sure motor turns free and connections are clean.
 

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Heat equals power. A lot of power is being lost in those cables. Either that's because the cables have a bad connection, or it's because the motor is sucking a lot of amps out of the battery.

I'd pull all the spark plugs and see if it cranks over freely. You may have coolant or fuel puddling in the cylinders causing a hydrolock condition.
 
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